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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Electronics & Hardware → So I killed my board. What are the latest/best upgrade options
It ended up being my blue and red motor wires were switched. I do want to confirm that I have the extruder driver setup correctly for 1/32 steps though. I have the jumpers under the driver to empty/empty/jumpered (going from top of board to bottom). I changed the following in Configuration.h
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {88,88,2268,276}
the last value was originally 138, so I doubled it to 276, is this the correct?
It ended up being my blue and red motor wires were switched. I do want to confirm that I have the extruder driver setup correctly for 1/32 steps though. I have the jumpers under the driver to empty/empty/jumpered (going from top of board to bottom). I changed the following in Configuration.h
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {88,88,2268,276}
the last value was originally 138, so I doubled it to 276, is this the correct?
That is correct, but you really should not run your extruder at 32. At the speeds it runs it makes very little noise. The only thing that increasing the microsteps will do is lower torque. Which the extruder is the last place you want to compromise torque at.
Moire is a real problem with his setup. Running 1/32 is the easiest way to eliminate it. No torque issue will cause any concern.
nope, sorry Carl, that is the one place we do want to run 1/32.. i run 1/32 stepping on the extruder of all of mine and don't have a problem with torque at all. it does, however, pretty much eliminate any moire when adjusted properly. Making the switch to the E3D over the stock SD setup caused a LOT of moire that i was unable to get rid of using the 1/16 stepping.
kgkern - if you properly calibrate the extruder - with the stock feed gear - you should end up closer to 200 (hint: the stock setting of 138 was way too high, resulting in serious over extrusion) My favorite machine is set to 203 running stock feed gear.
this is wrong however: empty/empty/jumpered
that is only 1/16th stepping according to the wiki page for Rumba
Put jumpers on all 3 sets of pins to guarantee 1/32nd
Ok so set it closer to 200 or so for the extruder, with all 3 jumpers under the 8825 driver. The X,Y,Z should then only have the last jumper jumped for 1/16 steps using the 4988 drivers?
no, that is not how it works..
please see the wiki here: https://reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA#Microstepping
and for the extruder, you need to properly calibrate it. dont guess, actually do the calibrations.
If you need more info on how to do the calibrations, just ask
Update, setup the microsteps correctly, and have it printing. Moire is already much better than with the original board, (as in its pretty much gone), however I have only adjusted the drivers by sound so far.
I have searched for how to properly calibrate the extruder and drivers for the RUMBA on the Solidoodle, however the search results don't appear to be consistent. What is the most accurate way to finish dialing in the calibrations on the drivers and the extruder?
When adjusting drivers I assume you mean vref it will be different on every machine due to friction and rods being true or not. When I adjust my vref I back it off till the motor stalls during a movement one way then I bump it up just a nudge. Then I confirm it runs the other way without stalling. If it does then I nudge the vref up just a tiny bit more till the motors run in both direction without stalling and with as little noise gain as possible.
For the extruder driver just adjust it the same way. Back off till it stalls then nudge it up till it works.
For all the other calibrations it is the same regardless of the board. it comes down to the firmware. Marlin and Repetier are the same in regards to making and saving the adjusted steps.
Smoothie which does not apply here is a bit different.
Ok cool, that is pretty much how I adjusted the vref on my drivers, I just haven't done it on the extruder yet, but will try that tonight.
yup, adjusting by sound & actual operation is going to get you much further than trying to match "numbers" from someone else.. as Carl said, every machine is a little different.
for the actual calibration of the extruder, however, there is a proper way of doing it.
Based on information I have learned here in these forums (scattered around in various threads, but it is all here) I wrote up the following guides...BOTH parts are necessary to do the job properly and get the best results possible.
https://northwoods3d.weebly.com/blog/fi … ion-part-1
https://northwoods3d.weebly.com/blog/-f … coming-out
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Electronics & Hardware → So I killed my board. What are the latest/best upgrade options
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