76 Reply by Stevos758

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Re: Heated Bed Upgrade - Guide with Pics/Comparisons/STLs

Will I be ok with the stock connectors until mine arrive? I will be preforming the mofset wiring upgrade tonight along with power supply upgrade tonight.

Website - http://rippsgaragetech.com/
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E3D V6 Bulldog XL mounts! http://www.filastruder.com/products/e3dv6-bulldog-mount

77 Reply by Claghorn

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Re: Heated Bed Upgrade - Guide with Pics/Comparisons/STLs

I've been thinking about the bed upgrade, but I have a new style printrboard. I've come up with 3 different plans so far: 1. Modify the printrboard (since the power connectors for sure, and maybe the PCB traces aren't adequate). 2. Just use an SSR to run the heatbed. 3. Switch to completely different electronics which are beefy enough to run a high current heater. Check my thinking on this and tell me what options I missed :-). Full exposition here:

http://home.comcast.net/~tomhorsley/har … eater.html

Claghorn's Website

78 Reply by Apone4770

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Re: Heated Bed Upgrade - Guide with Pics/Comparisons/STLs

Great upgrade! Unless I'm mistaken, this is for the Solidoodle 2.  Is the motherboard for the Solidoodle 3 the same as the Solidoodle 2? At least as far as the power upgrade bits in this mod? I am looking to do this upgrade but I don't want the board to fry if what is shown in these steps are only for the version 2 board.  Thanks!

79 Reply by ronsii

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Re: Heated Bed Upgrade - Guide with Pics/Comparisons/STLs

Boards for the SD2 and SD3 are currently the same, Firmware is changed to reflect the size difference.

80 Reply by Apone4770

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Re: Heated Bed Upgrade - Guide with Pics/Comparisons/STLs

Thanks ronsii!

81 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: Heated Bed Upgrade - Guide with Pics/Comparisons/STLs

I know I'm reviving an old thread, but I CANNOT download the .stl files from  http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:64607
It just gives me an error code and I have gotten this off 3 computers. Can someone who has these files share them directly here? If so, thanks in advance!

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

82 Reply by Stevos758

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Re: Heated Bed Upgrade - Guide with Pics/Comparisons/STLs

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ru83m0yuy0nr6 … t.zip?dl=0

Let me know if this works!

Website - http://rippsgaragetech.com/
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/pages/Ripps-Ga … 3131469591
E3D V6 Bulldog XL mounts! http://www.filastruder.com/products/e3dv6-bulldog-mount

83 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: Heated Bed Upgrade - Guide with Pics/Comparisons/STLs

Thanks! Loads in RH and slices

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

84 Reply by Stevos758

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Re: Heated Bed Upgrade - Guide with Pics/Comparisons/STLs

No problem!

Website - http://rippsgaragetech.com/
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/pages/Ripps-Ga … 3131469591
E3D V6 Bulldog XL mounts! http://www.filastruder.com/products/e3dv6-bulldog-mount

85 Reply by Quintox303 (edited by Quintox303 2014-12-07 13:26:20)

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Re: Heated Bed Upgrade - Guide with Pics/Comparisons/STLs

On the bed of my solidoodle 3, from bottom to top, there is the white insulation, the heater stuck to the bottom of the aluminium plate, the aluminium plate covered with kapton, and then my glass plate.

It looks here like the new heaters are going on top of the aluminium plate rather than below it, Hence requiring the metal to be ground down to fit the bumpy underside of the QU-BD heat bed. Why not do it like the original solidoodle bed and put the heater between the insulation and the metal plate?

I'm probably missing something simple but I cant see why its being done like this. Could anyone please explain?
Thanks, Matt

86 Reply by mloebl

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Re: Heated Bed Upgrade - Guide with Pics/Comparisons/STLs

Quintox303 wrote:

It looks here like the new heaters are going on top of the aluminium plate rather than below it, Hence requiring the metal to be ground down to fit the bumpy underside of the QU-BD heat bed. Why not do it like the original solidoodle bed and put the heater between the insulation and the metal plate?

That's how I did it... I got a piece of MIC6 from McMaster, took off the old plate so I could use it as a template, and drilled out the new plate on a drill press (cheap one I got from HD awhile back.)  I countersunk the holes so the screws would be flush with a larger drill bit.  I then got one of the 200w silicone heat pads that stick on the bottom that another member on here sells on eBay (I think he sells 300w models now.)  Used an external relay as too much draw for my Rumba board.  Works great; heats up in about 10mins, and the thicker aluminum plate holds a steady temperature quite well.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_G5hMWG2Mlw/VAPSxocKVQI/AAAAAAAAYb0/FJbba-MMV0o/w916-h1222-no/IMG_20140831_215822.jpg

SD3, Lawsy Carriages with GT2 belts on x axis, BLTouch, Bondtech BMG extruder, E3D v6 via bowden, MIC6 bed with 200W heater w/SSR relay and a RUMBA controller

87 Reply by Quintox303

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Re: Heated Bed Upgrade - Guide with Pics/Comparisons/STLs

Thanks, at looks great!
Ill add it to my list of things to do once I get a new power supply. It seems like you cant really do any modifications to the solidoodle that change power consumption without it!

88 Reply by mloebl

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Re: Heated Bed Upgrade - Guide with Pics/Comparisons/STLs

Quintox303 wrote:

Thanks, at looks great!
Ill add it to my list of things to do once I get a new power supply. It seems like you cant really do any modifications to the solidoodle that change power consumption without it!

Probably overkill, but I have a dedicated p/s for the heater, then another p/s for everything else.  Could do that with the stock power for the SD board and extruder/etc, then with an aux relay use a dedicated supply (though again could be overkill smile )

SD3, Lawsy Carriages with GT2 belts on x axis, BLTouch, Bondtech BMG extruder, E3D v6 via bowden, MIC6 bed with 200W heater w/SSR relay and a RUMBA controller

89 Reply by Quintox303 (edited by Quintox303 2014-12-08 05:24:27)

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Re: Heated Bed Upgrade - Guide with Pics/Comparisons/STLs

would you be able to send a link to the heated bed on ebay? Also, did you put any insulation on the bottom?

90 Reply by mloebl

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Re: Heated Bed Upgrade - Guide with Pics/Comparisons/STLs

Quintox303 wrote:

would you be able to send a link to the heated bed on ebay? Also, did you put any insulation on the bottom?

Here's the newer version of what I have:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Solidoodle- … 2c9260998f

I did not insulate it...  Probably wasted heat, but goes into heating the enclosure anyways so no big deal.  You will need an aux relay for that heater as usually the stock relays/traces on the different control boards can't take it.   Here's the one I got as it was convenient, but doesn't have to be this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-Amp-Relay-Bo … 3cea59a775

SD3, Lawsy Carriages with GT2 belts on x axis, BLTouch, Bondtech BMG extruder, E3D v6 via bowden, MIC6 bed with 200W heater w/SSR relay and a RUMBA controller

91 Reply by mloebl

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Re: Heated Bed Upgrade - Guide with Pics/Comparisons/STLs

Before I forget, this is the new bed I am using from McMaster:  http://www.mcmaster.com/#86825k724/=uxnj08

SD3, Lawsy Carriages with GT2 belts on x axis, BLTouch, Bondtech BMG extruder, E3D v6 via bowden, MIC6 bed with 200W heater w/SSR relay and a RUMBA controller

92 Reply by adrian

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Re: Heated Bed Upgrade - Guide with Pics/Comparisons/STLs

Quintox303 wrote:

I'm probably missing something simple but I cant see why its being done like this. Could anyone please explain?
Thanks, Matt

The original 3 hole mounting setup of the 'doodles means that if you use a 200cmx200cm bed, it fouls the mounting/adjusting bolts.  To use the existing bolts, you can only use the 150 (? or 100.. havent looked for ages) pad. The same issue existis with the circular pads due to the closeness of the two front mount bolts relative to the arc and their setback from the edge.

So to use the most appropriate sized heater, you either need to replace the plate as a whole (as per mloebl) or mount it above.