what 3d printer should i get (Page 1 of 2)

A chinese import printer and it clogged in a week. well something is wrong. I have been printing 4 years and have never had a serious clog. thank god knock on wood not bragging but something is wrong. could be temp settings a poorly tuned machine or bad filament. It could have possibly had metal chips in the nozzle.  I mostly use genuine E3d hot ends and nozzles but I do have two import machines.
You could have asked for help before sending it back. But at this point we will never know the cause of the clog.

We can give some suggestions but ultimately your dime your decision. You may have to do some homework. with GOOGLE if you sre using bing you may need to change search engines.

That my friend will add cost and limit choices.

Define larger  most printers are going to be 8x8x8 inches or so.
there are many larger ones out there but usually more expensive.

Then you need to look for a reliable printer from a reliable company. like a genuine prusa , lulsbot or the like

This requirement is the easy one a good quality all metal hot end and modded firmware

IMHO the list you give you need to spend a lot more than a grand.

Again IMHO I would not waste money on any davinci product.

What printer(S) are you talking about Again I have been doing this as a hobby for something like 4-5 years nd have never seen a printer print anything close to that fast. Please , please show me this printer.

Here is a link to a real 3d printer store that sells reliable printers some are fully enclosed.

https://www.printedsolid.com/collections/3d-printers

That being said I can not afford these either so I work with open printers of Chinese decent. Many have upgrades.
If you can get something open source. IIRC most if not all the offerings in the above link fall into that category.

And I would be remiss if I did not mention this link
https://www.printitindustries.com/

It is accompany that was formed to serve this community they sell a couple very reliable printers as well.

IF you only have $1000 to spend you could by one of these kits assemble it yourself and easily enclose it. You would need to build in the reliability and possibly upgrade some parts.

https://folgertech.com/collections/3d-p … rinter-kit

A couple more solid options

www.soliforum.com/topic/17534/mono-price-ultimate-maker-24v-for-sale/
and you may want to check out the prusa line

https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/#_ga=2.9496 … gLBNfD_BwE

$749 for the kit $999 fully assembled  + shipping

Other than the delta printers all of the other fast units are other than fdm tech most are industrial grade.

FT does sell other more affordable kits as well.

Thanks alot tin falcon I will look at them when i get home

if you are OK with  import printers take a look at this one

https://www.anycubic.com/products/anycu … 5651763260

I can not make any comments for or against this choice other than Carl loves his .

S far as the davinci I have not been able to figure that one out either. They are closed source. parts are not available and he only support you get is to send it to tiwain at your own expense. That said I do know a few people that love them most add $330 in parts and turn them into decent machines. It is the only brand I suggest folks stay away from
You have to admit the company is good at marketing.

As far as reviews :

There is the optimist that finds good in everything
Then there is the pessimist he or she finds the negative in everything.
Then the realist he or she find the pros and cons.
The opportunist finds the best deal and makes the best of it.

This hobby IMHO is not for the faint of heart. It takes a fair bit of mechanical knowledge as well as electrical /electronics background and a little coding firmware knowledge Also a heaping helping of dogged determination.
One needs to push through when others are ready to quit. But one must be able to recognize junk and not beat a dead horse.

as far as other brands  the dremmel has a decent rep as does the flash forge. Keep in mind some of these printers are using the mighty board clone and work a bit differently from the standard RepRap.  Not all 3d printers run g code.

Anny printer the experience will vary. I was talking to a guy today  he has 2 cr10s at home but has better experience with the ender 3 at work. People seemed surprised I was able to get my sd4 to work.

You need to figure out what is going to work for you in your home shop and situation. It is easy for me to sit here and make suggestions all day but you are the one that needs to learn to use the machine you buy.

And on the topic of odors I can not smell or taste much of anything. But after 5 years of 3D printing my wife has never complained of smells  granted I use mostly pla a little petg and some wax I have never tried abs or nylon.

this whole subject of enclosed printers and filters has been discussed at length.
.

Ok, lets get realistic here. there are NO FDM printers that can print at those kinds of speeds. None. Zero. That is not a realistic expectation. Most hotends can not melt the plastic fast enough to keep up. Even the E3D Volcano would have a hard time with those kinds of speeds.

The fastest I, personally, have seen an FDM printer run, with very little loss of quality, is 300mm/s - and that machine was the PrintIt Industries Horizon running an E3D Volcano hotend. I saw this first hand, this is not a story, or wishful thinking. To be perfectly honest, I was rather impressed.

Azerate - who is one of the partners in PrintIt - and I, were at the Milwaukee Maker Faire a couple of years ago - someone asked how fast would it print? He had just started a print on his machine, so said "lets find out" and he brought the speed up a little at a time - all the way up to 325mm/second - at that speed print quality started to suffer, but it was still doing quite well at 300mm/s.

I will also point out that as the speed was increased, the hotend temp was also increased in order to keep up with the demand.

and I also want to point out that this is NOT the norm, either.. very few machines can handle those kinds of speeds.. on average, 100mm/s is about as good as it will get

This is seriously NOT recommended - unless you are ok with the gamble of coming home to a fire scene...

Yes, I know a lot of people do it, but I never will. It is just not worth the gamble to me. There have been a few that have paid the price for doing it, and i am betting they regret it.

The ability of a printer to print unattended.  Is not something would trust to an import. (Chinese Import)
That is why I posted the link to printed solid.

Joe Prussa printers are tested and use quality parts. He has a print farm he prints parts on 500 printer that run pretty much 24/7

He uses made in usa ultramachine boards as was as other quality components like E3D.

While prussa printers are technically imported they use top of the line name brand components . Everry part is tested before assemble then the printer is tested again once assembled.

On the other hand the A8 the components on the boards are made so cheap they turn off the safety protocols in the firmware because the cheap components trip them  yikes.

Even with a reliable printer make sure the person at HOME knows emergency shutdown procedures (power it down) has a fire extinguisher handy knows how to use it and you have a fire smoke alarm in the printer room.

I was looking into this claim myself. There seems to be one very expensive high end company making a printer with custom boards and extruder that claims it can do 800mm/s and maintain quality but that machine has yet to see the light of day. I suspect it was a kick starter that never got kicked. But for the record it seems 120mm/s is still the Holy Grail as I originally mentioned. The current technology just can't heat and deliver the material fast enough to go much faster.

My guess on most of those is they see what the max speed it can lay a single line of filament is and call that the max speed. The issue  is as the print progresses the hot end cools more till it no longer melts sufficiently and jams start occurring.

The next issue is when introduce curves and corners the head and frame will begin to flex and resonate introducing an artifact called ringing into the print.

I doubt any of these printers have generated a print at stated speeds. If they can print a bench at stated speeds then and only then will I believe them.

They will also need video showing the print in real time.

and lets be very clear that travel speed is not the same as print speed.. BIG difference between the two.

the machines in that link are not "common consumer printers" - those are high dollar, high end machines, and even at that, I sincerely have my doubts about the claimed print speeds.. the delta, maybe, and a big maybe at that, but the cartesian ones? kinda don't think so.

"Normal" print speeds will range from 40 to 80mms/sec on most consumer printers. 100-120mms/s are obtainable - with the right machine and having it dialed in properly. Beyond that, you are doing a fair bit of wishful thinking.

Carl - the FT-5 I have runs at 120mm/s for print speeds, and does so quite happily. It could probably go faster, but I see no reason to when I am getting excellent results from it as is and it is 3x faster than the SD4s.
Granted, I have to run hotter temps on the hotend to keep the plastic flowing (running 220C for PLA on an E3D v6, 0.4 nozzle - normally I would run 200C) but for my needs, this is working just fine.
I also want to point out (for the OP's benefit) that I spent a lot of time in building the FT-5, making sure it was built right, built solidly, and fine tuning it to get the results I am getting.

Maybe I missed it, but did you not say one of your requirements was to be fully enclosed for fume control? This printer is wide open on 3 sides. That could be easily DIY'd but that is a consideration you need to think about on this machine. Honestly I would just not print with ABS and drop the enclosed idea.

ABS is the only filament that generates smelly fumes other than nylons and some exotics you most likely would not use.

If ABS is necessary then you will need an enclosure and you will need to evacuate the air inside with an exhaust that feeds through filters.

PLA smells like hot almost burning sugar so it is not bad and PETG has no noticeable smell at all. So ABS is really the one that needs to be filtered if your girl is sensitive.

The specs give one little to think about.

Another one to ponder

https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id= … p;format=2

build volume is a bit less but so is the price.
I have an older model Ultimate maker  that is a very solid machine. I can not speak about this one .

Tin falcon I was looking at the monoprice stuff didnt like something about them (been looking at so many right now I cant remember)

I am really likeing the qidi x-plus they have alot of good reviews from everywhere im looking they are also versityle on the philiment and have a air purifier so i could do other materials like carbon fiber that have a stronger oder and i wont have to listen to my girl friend bitching