Da Vinci 1.0 Azteeg x5 WiFi Build (Page 6 of 13)

It's in the host in the settings... I don't have access to the PC that Repetier is on as I do not use it here. I use Simplify3D here and it is in a different place from Repetier.

Yes you can add some sort of spacer or other device to increase the contact point height for the switch. What you want is for the nozzle to be about a mm above the bed with the adjuster pulled down. Then you will fine tune using the paper calibration method at the top of the XYZ section here.

The idea is to have the nozzle in a position so that in theory you can ad or subtract using the adjusters. Note your home height and your print start height are not the same. The print start height can be made different by the start gcode and the lines I have an example. My head homes 2mm lower than where the print starts at. So in reality my machine sounds like yours where if I home the Z and them move across with the X I will hit the bed and I will. That is why I added the offset in the start gcode.

As for your bed size question. The value is irrelevant and not needed in most setups. In the majority of printers yours included the print is centered in the middle of the  bed by the slicer. It will then begin the print from the corner closest to your home position. So as long as the print will fit in your bed dimensions the system is self regulating.

The only values you need in that window are Y max and X max which should be the same as in the firmware and you need the three print area measurements which is just your print cube X Y Z.

Yes 1mm above with springs compressed. You want room where you can adjust up and down with adjusters if needed. If your springs are tall enough you could even try 2mm.

For the extruder you need to confirm feed direction. What I do is lower the bed, move the extruder to the center over the bed. I then go to the host and heat the extruder to heating temp as it will not move unless hot. I then try to feed filament. If it is running in the right direction you should feel it pull the filament in.

If it is pushing the filament out then the motor direction needs to be changed. if it is  not running at all then the motor wiring needs to be checked. Unlike the axis motors, there are no endstops so only motor settings can affect how this one behaves.

Don't forget that once you get all the motors running and the extruder extruding you still need to set the steps per mm to get the correct dimensions and correct feed rate. There are instructions for this all over Google so I won't go into detail on this unless you end up having a specific question. But this is settings that is common for all firmwares. The only thing that will effect this setting is you choice of microsteps. But there are calculators on line that allow you to input that info as well as the desired dimension and what you.

In a nut shell you print a 20 or 30 mm calibration cube that is the same size in all dimensions. Once it is done make a note with a sharpie on it which axis is which and then measure them with calibers. Use the vale you get in the calculator versus the desired value and it will tell you what the steps need to be set for. You just keep repeating this until all your axis are within the desired tolerance.

Getting better than .004 will be near impossible though. So don't expect machine shop precision.

Setting the extruder is very similar. You tell it to extrude X amount and you measure the amount that was extruded. The only thing to keep in mind it that you measure from the input side, not the output.

I run PETG from 245 to 265. Depends on color mostly. Right now I am using black at 245. It is also possible your heater needs to be calibrated. You can run a PID auto tune and then input the values into the firmware. This will work on the heater and the bed. The below section is the area of the firmware and what I put in bold is the values that need to be changed to the reported results of the Auto PID.

# Hotend temperature control configuration
temperature_control.hotend.enable            true             # Whether to activate this ( "hotend" ) module at all. All configuration is ignored if false.
temperature_control.hotend.thermistor_pin    0.24             # Pin for the thermistor to read
temperature_control.hotend.heater_pin        2.5              # Pin that controls the heater
temperature_control.hotend.thermistor        EPCOS100K        # see http://smoothieware.org/temperaturecontrol#toc5
#temperature_control.hotend.beta             4066             # or set the beta value

temperature_control.hotend.set_m_code        104              #
temperature_control.hotend.set_and_wait_m_code 109            #
temperature_control.hotend.designator        T                #
#temperature_control.hotend.max_temp         300              # Set maximum temperature - Will prevent heating above 300 by default
#temperature_control.hotend.min_temp         0                # Set minimum temperature - Will prevent heating below 0 by default

temperature_control.hotend.p_factor          13.7             #
temperature_control.hotend.i_factor          0.097            #
temperature_control.hotend.d_factor          24               #

temperature_control.bed.enable               false            #
temperature_control.bed.thermistor_pin       0.23             #
temperature_control.bed.heater_pin           2.7              #
temperature_control.bed.thermistor           Honeywell100K    # see http://smoothieware.org/temperaturecontrol#toc5
#temperature_control.bed.beta                4066             # or set the beta value

temperature_control.bed.set_m_code           140              #
temperature_control.bed.set_and_wait_m_code  190              #
temperature_control.bed.designator           B                #

I also noticed that by default the bed heater is not enabled. So you will need to enable it as well.

Once you run the Auto PID and put in the values try your extruder test again. The issue is that the stock hotend is not designed to go to far over 200 as stock filament melts around 190. So you may need to change your hotend to an E3D if you want to do PETG.

The hotend unless set for bang bang which is not supported by smoothie and ill advised to use is not just turned off and on to control temp. The PID system will run it through several heating and cooling loops to determine how long power needs to be applied to get up to temp then once power is removed how far doe it overshot and then how much does it undershoot when cooling. It then is able to compute the exact time to apply power to keep the undershoot and over shoot under tighter control so the set temp stays closer to setting with less power needed to maintain it.

As for the fan what port is it connected to on the board? This is the section of the config that controls it.

# Switch module for fan control
switch.fan.enable                            true             #
switch.fan.input_on_command                  M106             #
switch.fan.input_off_command                 M107             #
switch.fan.output_pin                        2.4              #

Based on what it says your fan should be connected to port or pin 2.4 on the board. and an M106 will turn it on and an M107 will turn it off. Also that is a 12 volt circuit, not a 3 volt circuit.

Pin 2.4 are on the fan header and is the first pin at the bottom on the right side. right next to the bed thermistor connection.

The pin right above that is ground for that fan. Now if you connect to 2.4 it is a 5 volt fan. if you connect to the third pin up it is still 2.4 but a voltage that is the same as your main power supply. What they are doing in most case where control is needed on this board is they are switching the ground pin of the relative circuit rather than switching power.

It just turns off and on. On till temp is reached, off till it cools down to whatever hysteresis is set for which is usually 5 to 10 below set. Same is true for heating. it will usually heat 5 to ten above then shut off. So there is always over and undershoot in the temp.

But with PID it is turned on during cool so it does not drop below temp and it is turned off during heating so it does not overshoot. Instead with PID your over shoot and undershoot puts you at the set temp every time.

Bang bang is fine for beds as their surface area is so large that the overshoot and undershoot swings are much smaller and don't effect the overall temp. Plus the temp of the bed is more forgiving than the hotend is.

Not sure what you mean by 3 pins. The fan should only use two pins. Both of those are on the fan header next to the thermistor connection. The header marked fans are the only location you should be trying to connect fans at. Unless you are trying to use a speed controlled fan which is not needed. The layer fan is not speed controlled and just comes on at a certain time usually after a layer or two is put down.

The fan header has six pins they are as follows:

Fan1                    Fan2
V+                       V+
GND                    GND
5+                       5+

1.25                     2.4

V+ will be whatever voltage your main power supply is so a fan connected here would need to be able to handle that voltage.

5+ is supplied by the board internal 5 volt regulator and can only supply an amp or so. A fan connected here will need to be able to run on 5 volts and have a very low power consumption.

The GND pin is actually the one that is assigned to 1.25 or 2.4 and is firmware controlled.

Auto tune for PID is command you have to put in through the terminal. Google autotune PID and you should see a RepRap page with the command.

So for the fan have you tried sending the M commands I listed through the terminal?

18:38:20.148 : // Cycle 4: max: 205.693, min: 197.514, avg separation: 0.0183105
18:38:20.148 : Ku: 79.3893, Pu: 39.6
18:38:20.148 : Trying:
18:38:20.148 : Kp:  47.6
18:38:20.148 : Ki: 2.406
18:38:20.164 : Kd:   236
18:38:20.164 : PID Autotune Complete! The settings above have been loaded into memory, but not written to your config file.

These values need to written by you manually to the config file in these locations.

18:38:20.148 : Kp:  47.6
18:38:20.148 : Ki: 2.406
18:38:20.164 : Kd:   236

temperature_control.hotend.p_factor          13.7             #
temperature_control.hotend.i_factor          0.097            #
temperature_control.hotend.d_factor          24               #

So yours would be:

temperature_control.hotend.p_factor          47.6             #
temperature_control.hotend.i_factor          2.406            #
temperature_control.hotend.d_factor          236               #

Also you should always make a back up copy of the most complete working version of the config before you make further changes so you can always revert to the last almost or complete version. Once you get it fully working especially make a back up.

Do you have a contact thermometer that confirm the temp? It is possible the filament is bad or just needs a higher temp then what you can get. If that Hotend has the PTFE tube then you do not want to go above 235 as you can damage the PTFE and if it gets too hot it can give off poison fumes.

235 is usually the max recommended temp for thermistors as well unless you buy special high temp ones or you use thermocouples like I do that can go as high as 400c. I can't think of any material I would ever do needing that temp but it's nice to know I have the temp for most materials.

Just noticed my hot end is loose could this by why nothing is coming out the end? Seems like it is just trying to push the filament into the head but it can’t come out the tip.

Should I change the value to 4300?