Folger FT-5 R2 Printer Head

IMHO get a e3d titan aero combo  that is the route i went.
Get one of the 24 volt ones to match your board in the FT5v2
I purchased mine local well an hours drive But he will ship mail order as well
https://printedsolid.com/products/e3d-titan-aero

or you can order one here as well

https://www.filastruder.com/collection … ruder-aero

These are both reputable  genuine e3d dealers.
You will need a motor  but the one that comes with      the kit should do fine.   You will need to fabricate an approx 2mm spacer to get the gears to line up.
You will also have to tweak the firmware a bit.

As far as to build with the factory parts and swap later or just install the e3d it is your choice . The only real advantage is checking the folger parts but if they are just going to be spare. I just installed mine as part of the build.

Her is a link to my build  mine is the original ft5

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/14840/ne … er/page/2/
Tin

Nope it looks like this

Max Extruder Temp: 245C (can reach higher but will shorten the longevity of the extruder)

There is the option of a clone
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/produc … 4ff1NYpO0R

1) i am not recommending this product . Offering it for information only.
2) i have no experience with clones
3) I have never dealt with this supplier .
4) I have never dealt with ali express.

20 to 40 day lead time. savings aprox $40 over the genuine product.
So is it worth the risk that is for you to decide.

Agreed the OP will likely struggle with a couple of the parts that come with the kit or they may , hopefully have worked out the issues. Adding an additional batch of Chinese parts is risky at best. Pay the extra $ 40 USD and get a very reliable product.
The hot end is where the rubber hits the road so to speak not an area to go cheap.

Tin

NO !!!  a steel nozzle will not change anything to do with heat limitations.
The part that limits the heat is the heat break. The heat break on the FT is lined with ptfe aka teflon . this part screw into the heater block. so exceed the temp limit you melt the teflon and ruin the heat break.

It may be possible to re-tap the mounting block to 7mmm then install a an e3d heat break.
But as built an e3d heat break will not fit the ft5 mounting block.
FYI an E3D heat break is $ 18   

If the extra 110 dollars is bothering you just install the OEM extruder and use PLA or abs until you are really ready to try nylon.

Tin

1) E3D clone also available from amazon. It cost slightly more than aliexpress but return or exchange are lot easier. The shipping speed is definitely much better than aliexpress.

2) I think for E3D clone, you need to get full metal version for temperature up to 280C. There are pros and cons about full metal v.s. regular one that contain PFTE tube inside, google and learn before order.

3) E3D clone need to assembled correctly in order to function property, they lose calibration during shipping and handling process. Based on my personal experience, the most common issue is a) distance between heat block to the fin two close lead to overheat of the heat break. b) the screw fixing thermostat too tight lead to short circuit of thermostat (this will not damage anything but you can not get right temperature reading until you loose that screw).

4) While genuine E3D are well packaged and you can usually assume it stay in best calibration and is ready to install. Genuine E3D cost more, but easy to install and use, also the heat block surface polish are much smoother than E3D clones, which is the only reliable way to identify genuine E3D from E3D clone. (I don't personally have experience with genuine E3D, all information regarding genuine E3D is based on facebook group feed back).

https://www.amazon.com/EAONE-All-Metal- … Z8GSNN610S

This is an e3d with a titan

This is a titan aero combo

Either will work but the aero package is more compact and you gain about an inch /25 mm of z height.
I have one of the former set ups on my prusa I 3 kit an it has worked reliably for 2 years .
but the latter makes more sense.This is what is installed on my FT5.

And there in lies the problem. Cheap is NOT better. The old adage, "you get what you pay for" holds very true in the world of 3d printing.

a TRUE E3D is capable of sustained temps in the 290-295C range with the stock thermistor, in stock form.
You can go over 300C with the installation of a thermocouple vs a thermistor - yes, there IS a difference between the two.

Yes, a true E3D will cost more initially, BUT, it will last for the long haul. My 1st SD4 got an E3D v6 back in April of 2015 - I have had ZERO problems out of the hotend itself. a minor clogged nozzle here & there from cheap material (again, you get what you pay for), but that is an easy fix with the E3D.

I keep a spare nozzle or two just for those times that something like that happens... Pull the filament out, heat it up, break the nozzle loose, take it off, install a fresh one, heat tighten, and back to printing in a matter of minutes.
Clogged nozzle gets dropped in a small container of Acetone (i print ABS almost exclusively) to soak the clog loose. Once it is cleaned up the formerly clogged nozzle goes in the parts drawer to be used again the next time.

In 3 years, of often heavy use (8-10 hrs a day, for 6 days a week) I think I have had to change the nozzle out maybe 3 or 4 times.

If I had to guess, I would say I have somewhere around 6500-7000 hours, possibly more, on that one E3D. I have never had to change the thermistor due to failure, nor the heater. I did, however, upgrade to the new style heatblock & thermistor just this past winter... I figured the original had more than enough hours on it to justify doing so, and I was beginning to see some temp fluctuations that were just a little off.

So you tell me - did I get my money's worth out of it? Nearly 3 years and thousands of hours of print time for my $70?
I think I did.

This is the point people are trying to make to you. You have never had one. Therefore you have no business talking about one good or bad.