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Topic: Abandoned 3D trying to get working

I picked up a Prusa i3 from the second hand shop. Seems like the guy who started building it gave up and or broke the frame before finishing it and gave up. That said i figured i'd try to get it to work. I fixed the frame and bought a bunch of parts and have it hooked to the computer.

I've been following miscellaneous guides on YouTube but feel I've reached a spot where I could use a little help. I came upon your forum when searching about the motors going in one direction. I have 3 mechanical end stops.

Oh I downloaded all the software so far from nwreprap and have used to talk to the printer and arduino.

Using Pronterface the motors will move in one direction which happens to be the opposite direction of the endstops. In my search a site asked. "If you issue an M119 command" Where how do you do this? Note I do not have an LED on this printer. I should add that when I plug in the 3D there is no auto home going on. The X, Y, Z positions stay there until I use Pronterface. Manually pushing the endstop does nothing (besides the red LED light coming on).

If anyone can give me a few things to try or look at I would appreciate the insight.

2 (edited by carl_m1968 2018-02-25 21:55:42)

Re: Abandoned 3D trying to get working

Pronterface has a box you can type commands into then press send. the printer should then respond in the data window.

http://soliforum.com/i/?KXAr3sF.jpg

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Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

3

Re: Abandoned 3D trying to get working

Aah Thank you.

M119 gives me: x_min:H y_min:H z_min:H.  Pressing an end stop manually it works in the "-" zone. It also helped me realize I had my Z and X end stops wiring was mixed up. I went in to Arduino and changed the config to "true" for all three end stops and I am now able to go both ways.  I feel this will be  a long road ahead of me.

Thank you Carl.

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Re: Abandoned 3D trying to get working

Hang in there getting a printer up and running can be a challenge . and not for the faint of heart. But coming her you have come to the right place for help.

IIRC many of us here use Repiter host and sli3r to run our printers.
Cura is another option

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

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Re: Abandoned 3D trying to get working

I hadn't even thought about looking for old printers at second-hand shops!

Tin is right:  you've come to the right place for help.

-Kevin

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Re: Abandoned 3D trying to get working

I hadn't even thought about looking for old printers at second-hand shops!

Nor have I, I guess it is a sign they are coming of age.

So what does happen to abandoned/ orphan printers. I know they are out there the dumpster, the trash . Better a second hand store where they can be adopted and have a second chance.

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

7

Re: Abandoned 3D trying to get working

You can also find them on Craigslist in your area as well if you have that service in your area. Also go garage sale hopping on weekends.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

8

Re: Abandoned 3D trying to get working

http://soliforum.com/i/?TdJD4ZI.jpghttp://soliforum.com/i/?qjmcrEQ.jpg

He wanted 35 bucks for it. I left with it at 10 dollars. It is light years behind what you all are probably using. It will at least give me the basics before making a bigger/better one. Only had to buy a power supply and a few bolts and wires so far. I haven't test the heating elements yet.

I'll be looking into using Repetier-Host and Slic3r since I haven't invested any time learning the previously downloaded programs.

I used to collect stepper motors out of old scanners and hi tech sewing machines. Shame I lost place of all that stuff. But for you guys in the know I see a lot of large format scanners at fleamarkets for dirt cheap. I'm sure these can be converted on the cheap. 

Thanks again.

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Re: Abandoned 3D trying to get working

Well, looks like important parts are all in good shape, $10 is a great deal. Once you get it up and running, you can download and 3D print the broken frame parts to replace your temporary solution.

You can use power supply from old PC if the heating element and heated bed use 12V power supply. Some large format scanners or inkjet printer at fleamarkets also use 12V 10A(or bigger) power supply.

It is also a good idea to clean and lubricate the rod before test to avoid damage.

(Da Vinci 1.0, Jr. 1.0 RAMPS, miniMaker) X4, (Creality CR-10S, CR-10 mini, Ender-3) X4, Anycubic MEGA X4, Anycubic Chrion X1, ADMILAB Gantry X2 (MonoPrice Maker Select V2, Plus, Ultimate)X4--Select mini X1, Anycubic photon X4, Wanhao duplicate D7 X1.
iNSTONE Inventor Pro X2, CTC Dual X2, ANET-A8, Hictop 3DP-11, Solidoodle Press, FLSUN I3 2017X1

10

Re: Abandoned 3D trying to get working

Looks like it is running a RAMPS controller so your in luck there as the Firmware is open source and can use Repetier or Marlin.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

11

Re: Abandoned 3D trying to get working

Yizhou - I converted a PC power supply long ago. Burned it up long ago as well. If I remember I had to dismantle and add some ceramic resistor or something to allow it to come on. They probably have an easier way these days but I wasn't sure sure if any of my spare power supplies had the same AMP rating. For 24 bucks I ordered a power supply online. I needed to buy a spool of plastic anyway.

Frame was patched*. Now that the I am able to 'motor' in both directions I can continue to calibrate. Good idea, I will oil up the threaded rod and slide bars. My next hurdle is to get the heating (extruder and bed) working. I have not touched these yet.

*My one virtue is I worked in a steel fabricating shop (to pay for college) and have a slew of metal and woodworking tools (a semi-serious hobby). Actually that is why I collected stepper motors as I wanted to make a mini CNC machine. I just didn't have brains (literally and figuratively). The 3D printing community has opened up what I wanted to do 25 years ago. Very cool.

Yes it's a RAMPS 1.4!

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Re: Abandoned 3D trying to get working

It often seems that the first thing to do with a new 3D printer, is to make better parts for your 3D printer!

I also use Repetier-Host, and alternate between Slic3r and Cura for slicing...sometimes one does better than the other on a particular object.  Both those slicers come with R-H.

-Kevin

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Re: Abandoned 3D trying to get working

Instead of messing around with old power supplies. I highly recommend a supernight psu. Most of us use these and they'll give you all the power you'll ever need on the printer. https://www.printitindustries.com/produ … wer-supply

Sd4 #9080 with a glass bed. E3d chimera duel extruder. Paste extruder , duet wifi.
Lawsy carriages. linear bearings. Y axis direct drive, Kinect scanner
SD4#8188 glass bed, lawsly carriages, E3d v6, octoprint http://www.ustream.tv/channel/hotrod96z28
Filastruder/filawinder, Custom Delta 300mm x 600mm

14

Re: Abandoned 3D trying to get working

Instead of messing around with old power supplies. I highly recommend a supernight psu. Most of us use these and they'll give you all the power you'll ever need on the printer. https://www.printitindustries.com/produ … wer-supply


+1

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

15

Re: Abandoned 3D trying to get working

Probably should of came here first but I had already bought a Zyltech 12 V 30A 360w PSU and spool of 1.75mm black ABS.

I think I have it calibrated. I did notice the bed stepper motor gets hot unlike all of the other motors. This may have to be replaced one day.

Tested the heating elements both work. Didn't use an outside thermometer to compare what the CPU was telling me. I guess soon I'll try the 20cm cube.

The previous owner was sooo darn close. Not sure why he stopped. Ah well...

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Re: Abandoned 3D trying to get working

There are heat sinks out there you can buy and attach to the stepper along with a fan, there are also some designs on thinigverse that are fan shrouds you can print to attach a fan to the stepper

Sd4 #9080 with a glass bed. E3d chimera duel extruder. Paste extruder , duet wifi.
Lawsy carriages. linear bearings. Y axis direct drive, Kinect scanner
SD4#8188 glass bed, lawsly carriages, E3d v6, octoprint http://www.ustream.tv/channel/hotrod96z28
Filastruder/filawinder, Custom Delta 300mm x 600mm

17

Re: Abandoned 3D trying to get working

The bed stepper could have too much current driving it. May need to adjust it.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

18

Re: Abandoned 3D trying to get working

The previous owner was sooo darn close. Not sure why he stopped. Ah well...

His loss is your gain  stuff happens.

I had already bought a Zyltech 12 V 30A 360w PSU and spool of 1.75mm black ABS.

that ps should work fine.

I have always used pla . less fumes . I get mine from micro-center.
Good to here you are making progress.

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

19

Re: Abandoned 3D trying to get working

I tried printing today. I am having a bit of trouble extruding. In Pronterface when I go to print. The temperature (at 230 for ABS) clicks down to about 200 in the side window then starts to print. I just get a little plastic hairball on the bed. I would assume that the extruder needs to stay at 230 degrees. Any help?

20 (edited by yizhou.he 2018-03-02 18:00:17)

Re: Abandoned 3D trying to get working

Seems like software issue, but you can pre-heat the hotend to 230C and heated bed to 90C on LCD panel before printing, if it changed back to 200C when print starts, change it back to 230C/90C on LCD panel manually again quickly before the actual temperature drop too much, this should allow you to print if hardware don't have other issues. If this works, you need to post your Pronterface settting and gcode file to see which setting over-write your printing temperature.

(Da Vinci 1.0, Jr. 1.0 RAMPS, miniMaker) X4, (Creality CR-10S, CR-10 mini, Ender-3) X4, Anycubic MEGA X4, Anycubic Chrion X1, ADMILAB Gantry X2 (MonoPrice Maker Select V2, Plus, Ultimate)X4--Select mini X1, Anycubic photon X4, Wanhao duplicate D7 X1.
iNSTONE Inventor Pro X2, CTC Dual X2, ANET-A8, Hictop 3DP-11, Solidoodle Press, FLSUN I3 2017X1

21

Re: Abandoned 3D trying to get working

Sounds like your slicer is set at a lower temperature than your host is. Both need to be the same temp.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

22

Re: Abandoned 3D trying to get working

Right you are. I fixed that. Now I would assume the art of making a good print comes in all of the settings.

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Re: Abandoned 3D trying to get working

tebera.david wrote:

Right you are. I fixed that. Now I would assume the art of making a good print comes in all of the settings.

That is correct. Be sure to keep a log of your settings. I learned the hard way of not keeping one. I learned not to make to many changes at once.

24 (edited by Tin Falcon 2018-03-03 01:40:51)

Re: Abandoned 3D trying to get working

Right you are. I fixed that. Now I would assume the art of making a good print comes in all of the settings.


Indeed !! and you need to learn which setting to change .
this guide helps a lot . No need to have of use simplify 3D to make use of this guide it works with whatever slicer you have.
Even after years of printing and owning 4 printers I find this guide very helpful.

https://www.simplify3d.com/support/prin … eshooting/

Bushy is correct good idea to keep a log and ideally only change one parameter at a time.

Never forget the basics, learn them well, use them well ,and they will serve you well !!

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

25

Re: Abandoned 3D trying to get working

And it's a very good idea to do calibration cube to set your extrusion multiplier with each new spool of filament.  Print a cube like 10mm cubed. Single first layer, single perimeter wall, 0 infill and 0 top layers. After it prints measure the wall thickness. It should be 120% of your nozzle diameter. So a .4mm nozzle should make a .48mm wall

Sd4 #9080 with a glass bed. E3d chimera duel extruder. Paste extruder , duet wifi.
Lawsy carriages. linear bearings. Y axis direct drive, Kinect scanner
SD4#8188 glass bed, lawsly carriages, E3d v6, octoprint http://www.ustream.tv/channel/hotrod96z28
Filastruder/filawinder, Custom Delta 300mm x 600mm