Solidoodle 4 Board fried? (Page 1 of 2)

not necessarily the entire board, but the USB chip on it may be shot. I had an issue with my 1st SD4 and the USB not working.
on mine, one of the traces had failed. I tried to repair it, and it worked for maybe an hour or two...
ultimately I ended up changing the board to a Rumba, and have never looked back.

The Rumba is a solid board and easy to work with, but it is considered "old school" with only an 8 bit processor... there are far better alternatives available now, like the Duet with 32 bit processing, but quite different to work with. Not hard to set up, but different.

Ok, so which Rumba board should I be looking for? and would this board work?

the fact that you can not connect to it means, yeah, it is done. The chip itself could be shot.

the MKS board is ok - I have a kit printer that runs on one, and it does fine.
It is not a Rumba, but similar - an "all in one" board.

This is a Rumba.

I see you are looking on Canadian sites, so guessing you are Canadian?
If the MKS Gen1.4 fits your budget, it would be ok. The genuine Rumba is a bit more costly.

Also, keep in mind that you will need to add stepper drivers to that board, unless you can get one as a kit with stepper drivers included... you will need a minimum of 4 stepper drivers - 1 for each axis - X, Y, Z & E (extruder) (the MKS Gen1.4 has room for 5 - in case you are running dual extruders)

A4988 stepper drivers are the most common, and will function fine on an SD4.
The only axis that actually benefits from finer micro-stepping is the Extruder - I run DRV8825s on my SD4 extruders, everything else is on the A4988s.

We can help you with the firmware once you get the board, that's no big deal. The important thing is to grab a better PSU like a Supernight. I understand you are in Canada and shipping charges would be out of the question, but you want something like this https://www.printitindustries.com/colle … wer-supply

Many reported insufficient power when upgrading boards, so a little more :oomf: will give you a better experience. With the Rumba as well as the 1.4 knockoff you showed, it is recommended to run two +/- outs from the PSU into the board. This gives you consistent power and decreases heatup time. So basically, better performance.

Stick with 12v unless your new board requires 24v

oh yeah... you will have to figure out how and where to mount the MKS board... it will NOT fit in the stock SD4 board location... it is a bit bigger than the Printrboard

you want all jumpers in place for all 4 steppers - that will give you 1/16 micro stepping for the 4988s, and 1/32 micro stepping for the 8825

the Extruder is the only one that really benefits from the 8825 - it is easier to tune out any moire - especially if you upgrade the hotend..
with the stock hotend it may not be all that beneficial

if you havent found it already, there is some decent info here: http://reprap.org/wiki/MKS_GEN

What you need to do is see if you can find drawings are docs that show the not so much the wire color, but the phase names at each pin. Most are fout pins and will have some sort of labeling such as PH0- PH0+ PH1-PH1+ or Phase A- Phase A+ Phase B- Phase B+ they may not be in that order but the wiring must be changed so both boards have the same connections.

yes, you will need the Arduino IDE... that is what you use to flash the firmware to the board.

you will also need a copy of said firmware, set up for your machine with the correct board selected.

Select the appropriate board & processor in Arduino tools and the correct com port... then upload

"C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\teensy\cores\teensy/Print.h:46: error: 'constexpr' does not name a type" is the error I get when I try to compile. any ideas what I am doing wrong?

OK that explains that and yes please if you could post the link.

Thank you