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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → silicon rubber heater bed -120 Deg celsius in 1 minute
look at this : http://store.qu-bd.com/product.php?id_product=30
i would like to know if the solidoodle in standard heat bed configuration has enough power for this thing...
because of that :
Heats To 120 Degrees C in About ONE Minute (assuming adequate power supply)
mine give 100 deg Celsius in more or less 5 to 10 minutes...
no way could it work without some mods.
This draws 15 amps. The solidoodle power supply is only 10 I think.
I'm pretty sure you could still figure out a way to incorporate it, but you'd need to power it from something else.
I was already looking into changing the heated bed to a wired PCB but this is much better. Laser measurement reveals that there is a 20 degree difference in temperature from the centre to the outer portions of the bed. It is also very slow to heat up too.
I agree on the power supply, but that would need to be upgraded either way. Surely that's one of the easiest things to upgrade as there are only two wires that go into screw terminals.
Obviously the solidoodle bed is only 150x150 but there looks like enough room in the frame for a bigger bed, but print size would still be restricted to stop parts crashing into each other.
even better.. now they have a 150x150 silicon heatbed...http://store.qu-bd.com/product.php?id_product=36
i will buy one as soon as stock are back...
Me too. At $20, it can sit around until I feel like putting in the time to upgrade everything properly.
I was already looking into changing the heated bed to a wired PCB but this is much better. Laser measurement reveals that there is a 20 degree difference in temperature from the centre to the outer portions of the bed. It is also very slow to heat up too.
I agree on the power supply, but that would need to be upgraded either way. Surely that's one of the easiest things to upgrade as there are only two wires that go into screw terminals.
Obviously the solidoodle bed is only 150x150 but there looks like enough room in the frame for a bigger bed, but print size would still be restricted to stop parts crashing into each other.
Got a couple of questions.
What's the control for the bed? I know it's a resistor but is this just on to a temperature of is there some pwm to try to hold the temp?
If it's just on/off then a relay to switch a bigger supply is probably the easiest solution. (Perhaps adding more resistors so there are four placed around the bed rather than just one at the centre?)
Secondly. Have you tried adding a sheet of glass to the bed. Does this help distribute the heat any better? (I find a 20 degree difference surprising on an aluminium bed.
By default the bed is 'bang bang' on/off heating (with a 5 or 10 second cycle). A recent Marlin update now has support for a PID loop, which I imagine would be required with a bed that heated up this fast. Not sure if it uses PWM or not, I'll have a poke around the firmware for an analogWrite command.
Haven't tried the glass because I'm generally getting excellent results with the standard bed. I'm still on the original Kapton square and hairspray is doing the trick.
If and when I were do do this mod, I'll go all out and design a really nice solution with documentation. I would ideally design this to have a removable glass bed like Ian uses. This should allow and flat surface and ultra quick heating.
I couldn't see anything either, but I'm not all that familiar with the arduino chip having done most work on pic. I have a feeling I'll need to get acquainted with the firmware one day so it may as well be today!!
If it's just on/off then I'm thinking I might replace the resistor with a relay on the original electronics, (especially since the traces can't really handle the bed power anyway!)
Then have a tile that I'll put on top of a loop of nichrome wire that can be turned on with the relay.
There is a file in Marlin that has tables for reading thermistor values properly. If you are just changing the heating element you shouldn't need to worry about this but keep it in mind if you change the thermistor.
here is my response from them:
Message: any idea when SILICONE RUBBER HEATER BED 150MM X 150MM will be back in stock?
We expect them by the end of the week. Thank you!
Chelsea – QU-BD
Will buy and try one, psu already in place, and ramps can handle it it seems.
Awesome. I'm super keen to see how fast it actually heats. No doubt the 1 minute time is just with the element by itself. When we attach some aluminium or glass it will slow down, the question is by how much.
What are the specs of your power supply?
Awesome. I'm super keen to see how fast it actually heats. No doubt the 1 minute time is just with the element by itself. When we attach some aluminium or glass it will slow down, the question is by how much.
What are the specs of your power supply?
220 volts 500 watts, 2x12v, 18 amps rails
That certainly sounds up to it. What external form does it have?
One thing important for me is having a nice power brick like the stock one, that can sit next to the printer on my table.
That certainly sounds up to it. What external form does it have?
One thing important for me is having a nice power brick like the stock one, that can sit next to the printer on my table.
Form factor is a quiet atx power supply. Have connected it to a mushroom emergency button that I push to power it off, and pull out in order to power the device.
lawsy wrote:Awesome. I'm super keen to see how fast it actually heats. No doubt the 1 minute time is just with the element by itself. When we attach some aluminium or glass it will slow down, the question is by how much.
What are the specs of your power supply?
220 volts 500 watts, 2x12v, 18 amps rails
We are always up for suggestions for new heating elements. Our current design is meant to be easy on labor and cheap to produce. The drawback is that it heats slowly.
Just wanted to let everyone know that the 6x6's were back in stock as of Saturday, and I ordered 2 of them with plans to upgrade my solidoodles. I'll post about how it goes.
@kyle : how do you plan to add the silicon bed ? on the aluminum bed under a glass square ?
or do you plan to "redo" the bed completely ?
Yes, I'll be mounting directly on top of the aluminum plate, with a piece of glass on top. I had two 6x6 pieces of glass cut at the local hardware store for just $5.
Originally I was going to use Ian's idea and swap out pieces of glass on the bed so I could print again quickly. However, if the silicone heater bed works as advertised I won't need to worry about it.
While I did consider replacing the bed completely, it's just not worth it on the Solidoodle. I'll take my ideas on bed designs and put them into a printer I'll build from scratch.
Also waiting for one to arrive. Just don't plug it into the solidoodle board and try to heat it up or it will all go very bad. Maybe you already knew, just wanted to give a heads-up.
Yes, I'll be mounting directly on top of the aluminum plate, with a piece of glass on top. I had two 6x6 pieces of glass cut at the local hardware store for just $5.
Originally I was going to use Ian's idea and swap out pieces of glass on the bed so I could print again quickly. However, if the silicone heater bed works as advertised I won't need to worry about it.
While I did consider replacing the bed completely, it's just not worth it on the Solidoodle. I'll take my ideas on bed designs and put them into a printer I'll build from scratch.
damn QU.. they didn't ship to quebec.... i will ask them why..
Rondavouz wrote:lawsy wrote:Awesome. I'm super keen to see how fast it actually heats. No doubt the 1 minute time is just with the element by itself. When we attach some aluminium or glass it will slow down, the question is by how much.
What are the specs of your power supply?
220 volts 500 watts, 2x12v, 18 amps rails
We are always up for suggestions for new heating elements. Our current design is meant to be easy on labor and cheap to produce. The drawback is that it heats slowly.
the slow heating is a product of the power available.
Clearly if you could put a 3000w heater element there it may be just as simple (if not more so) to assemble, and may get to temperature in seconds, but your power supply requirements will have to make a huge leap!
solidoodlesupport wrote:Rondavouz wrote:220 volts 500 watts, 2x12v, 18 amps rails
We are always up for suggestions for new heating elements. Our current design is meant to be easy on labor and cheap to produce. The drawback is that it heats slowly.
the slow heating is a product of the power available.
Clearly if you could put a 3000w heater element there it may be just as simple (if not more so) to assemble, and may get to temperature in seconds, but your power supply requirements will have to make a huge leap!
Of course all solutions have to meet the "is it cheep?" acid test. In this case, a larger power supply would complicate things and add to cost. I could imagine it in a "super premium" Solidoodle.
It's not clear if they ship outside of the US, I've emailed them to ask.
Mine is on its way to Sweden at least.
Both of my beds arrived today! Hopefully I can find some time this weekend to tinker with them. I'll post the details afterwards
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → silicon rubber heater bed -120 Deg celsius in 1 minute
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