The Champ - Another Atlas 3D Scan

Really nice!  You must have done a really good job cleaning up the point cloud.

That looks fantastic!  Did you use the new adaptive thresholding and auto noise removal features?

Uriah

seems ambient lighting is most important part for best scans. do you have a professional lux meter? this would help find best light levels and others could possibly duplicate similar results with a meter also, even add tips to the Atlas info. I get similar fuzzy spikes on my scans but on tiny models like mine they are much more noticeable and hard to smooth enough to use for tiny high detailed prints when smoothed as it tends to wash out those details. it seems some of the fuzzy spikes may be from the thicker laser lines causing glare, would polarized filter lens on camera help with this? kinda like what you get on surface of water when fishing which is eliminated with Polarized sun glasses.

I saw a youtube of a guy using these cameras for nature videos using a telephoto lense that replaces stock lens then he used such a filter (also tried cheap sunglasses some of which blurred image due to plastic quality) it made huge difference in crisp contrast image. the telephoto lens and filter only cost around $10 each even on ebay.

also saw another youtube of a guy showing how he refocused his cameras. he used 2 sets of pliers, 1 slip joine type to hold the body firmly so it dont get popped off PCB and another set to grasp lens and give it a quick twist CCW to pop glue loose on threads. looked rough but worked well and he said he has yet to damage one after doing lots of them for a project he builds.

your scan dont have many visible but a few are in the narrow parts like arm pits etc they look like tiny spikes discolored like stubble. but on my tiny models which are no bigger that that arm total with even smaller crevices they are bigger than details like car door seams etc so if I smooth them to look like your finished combined scan those and the smaller details become merged into a morf of like a fender/door edge/body surface that kinda makes a 1950 Chevy pickup look like todays cars that all look the same with no defining lines that make them identifiable as to make and model. kinda like the last 10 plus years of Toyota, Kia, Hyundai... if ya know what I mean.

do you know any photographers that could check light levels with a meter for you so we can narrow down the ball park of optimal lighting? I think this would help a lot tweaking Camera ability for us to standardize all possible settings for optimal scans with least work.

I am going to ask some people I know and maybe even look for a meter and do the same. as I have a real close range that looks good also. several of us can compare for confirmation.

yes color is something I already been working on using a colored Talc type powder to dull models down for scanning. also a topic on this started. lots of different powders (makeup dept at stores) trying to find best one.

this is just a new type of photography and its been standardized for years like F stops, exposure times, lens focal points, shutter speeds etc. thats why those settings are posted with photos in magazines etc so others can try same shots with better success once found. also Lighting in Lumens, Lux, candle power etc.

true no such thing ATM for 3D laser Scanning but who will be the 1st to develop it. just a matter of time. never say theres no such thing, somebody will prove you wrong or already has. keep an open mind. light meters are used for both ambient light and reflective light on subject. thats how its duplicated professionally. everything can be measured.

It doesn't work on all the models, but for some, like the boxer, the feet act as a bipod, and the wire makes the tripod.  I usually find a place to wedge the wire in  some little nook or cranny ( in this particular case there's a crease where his chest meets the chin), and then wedge it against the table.

I cut a bunch of wires to different lengths to suit what I needed, but sometimes the model just won't stay.

I'm still contemplating doing a scanner mod where either the turntable can be tilted, or more likely the head (camera & lasers) can be moved in an arc maybe 15° to 30° off the horizontal.

As for enclosing the scanner, your best bet is to buy one of those light tents from eBay.  I'll probably buy one of these myself.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Light-Room-Phot … SwbdpWa8e4

BTW.  My setup is not currently enclosed.  It may look like it in that photo, but it's just the scanner sitting just in front of my SD3 printer, with a black towel draped over the top, and a piece of foam board overhanging to cut down the overhead light.

gonna need a bigger tent than that 9" one. I used my metal enclosure for my SD2 and its not long enough in one direction still at 12x12x13. need 12x19x12h min. I used some large black poster board from Walmart under $2 and closed all sides but top for light

and a cheap light meter that may work for us. http://www.ebay.com/itm/200-000-Digital … xygPtSspY~

then how can you block unwanted light/reflections or control lighting of the model? thats how Professionals get great results every time with portraits by using studios indoors with total control of lighting. outdoors is only for subjects you cant move indoors. plus you can protect others eyes from stray laser beams or even seeing it from corner of eyes like welding flash can damage the Retina. if no protective eye wear/goggles is worn. even looking at the laser line reflection with naked Eyes can be damaging, 1st symptom is a slight headache same as when welding arch is reflected on walls that you can see. or looking at a point of Sun light from a magnifying glass or Telescope on a lite color surface. its way to intense of brightness like Camera flash in your eyes for prolonged time.

also the links I posted are for proper sized tent for way less money, I ordered one of the cheap ones in last link. its under $8.00 for a 19" cube that can fold flat like the car window shades and has Velcro to hang colored Felt on for dif back drops and uses the translucent no glare/shadows nylon which some dont.

this is why I intend to find correct Lux/lighting level and match a bulb Wattage for it and plug it in with scanner PSU so it can scan in a closet or ? while I do other things.

what is your problem lately? I am just sharing what the rest of the world does to resolve similar problems to ours (as a Special Interest Group=SIG on 3D printing and related subjects). its not some contest on who knows best about what or any unwritten rules on how to, Forums and Groups like Soliform is not about that. they are for all members to share and learn from each other how to learn what to do to fix issues and best enjoy our mutual hobby/interests in a 'friendly' manner.

of coarse nobody has to take any advice or do anything others post that is a given. so I dont understand what this post I quoted of yours is addressing other than an expression of dislike of any posts I make the last couple of months for some reason. these type posts back and forth do nothing to help members of the Forum.

all my posts above have been to give all members help on how to improve their operation of the Scanner and find items to do so. no discredit or hijacking etc of the OP/Topic but rather added input to help us all get to this level of good scans and maybe better with less fiddling every time we do a scan. we all have the same goal here. and our posts along with our 'team work' to combine our efforts to achieve those Goals, not just see who can do it or win 1st place at it or whatever.

but if my idea of what this forum is about is wrong then please feel free to enlighten us all of its correct/true purpose, as it may be different from the other 200 such Forums/Groups I am a member of the last several years.