1

Topic: Extrution Problems 2

Hello Gentlemen,
I have read the similar topic previously opened about extrution problem. Which my problem looks similar, however the suggestions did not help mine to get resolved!!
Extruding stops after certain time during printing, the printer does not stop, only extruding stops. The gear still runs, strapping the filament, it seems like the wire clogged in the hotend.
I have tried the same model (approximately total 3 hours printing), and the extrusion stopped at different times; 20 mins, 1 hours, etc.
The previous model did the same thing at the first try, then luckily it did finished the model at second try.
This is my third print after i bought this printer 8 moths ago. I had some problems in the beginning, then i started following the forums time to time. Now, i need the printer, and another problem.
What i have done so far regarding this problem;
-clean the nozzle, used acetone and a pin to clean the hotend
-tightened extruder  gear, which works fine
-increased the heat up to 250 C (i am using the first filament came with the printer)
-pushed the filament by hand, and goes trough the hotend
-extract the filament from the sw, and it works fine

I have read about possible sensor problems (or assume the heater might cause the same thing), but i do not have proper device to measure the temp when stops.
Please let me know what you think in this case.

2 (edited by madfalcon81 2015-10-22 06:29:40)

Re: Extrution Problems 2

The temperature is too big, so the filament melts before entering the nozzle, so the extruder cannot push it no more. Lower it to 220-225 and it will do. Also, you can lift just a liiiiitle bit the top cover so fresh air can enter the chamber. But just a little bit. Try this and let us know.

Fat kids are harder to kidnap!

3

Re: Extrution Problems 2

#madfalcon81,
Thank you for your quick reply.
However, the problem started happening with default settings (which is 230C).
Then i started trying the suggestions, and so far;
-tried different temperatures 230, 240, 250
-revert the cooling fan direction, so now the fan blows in
-the top cover is open (half, and fully open), and i have tried even the door open. no luck
Please let me know if you have any other suggestions.

4

Re: Extrution Problems 2

Try 210. With top cover half opened.

Fat kids are harder to kidnap!

5

Re: Extrution Problems 2

it seems like the temperature sensor does not measure properly. I have borrowed thermometer from a friend, and the hot end gets actual 140C with 230 C sensor reading. I increased the temp up to 275 (max from soliprint), the actual temp is 180.
So, i assume the sensor is bad. I found some sensors from eBay, even if i am not sure about the specs of the sensors, hopefully all the sensors would have same specs since they have the similar size, and look
In addition to this, if you think that i would need any other parts, i am open to any suggestion.
Thanks

6

Re: Extrution Problems 2

Ironically this is the problem that I have right now too. The outside reading (I assume you use and infrared thermometer) its possible to be lower (so, in your case it might be the correct one). For instance, my extruder temp shows 100-1500 C when I start the printer (instead of 22-23C), thats why the temp I use for extruder is only closed to what it should be. Anyway, another solution (I had that problem too) was to print with mainboard outside the printer (do it at your own risk!!!). I get the mainboard outside, then placed a fan over the driver of the extruder. It stopped some of my problems back then. As for your problem it is about  small tweaks you can apply like those above. For instance, open all the doors and see whats happens. Get used to this kind of problem, I had them since day 1 wink.

Fat kids are harder to kidnap!

7

Re: Extrution Problems 2

well, I will try to take out the motherboard out ( even if i am not sure why the blowing air on driver of extruder might change anything).
i am surprised that printer runs even if the temperature reading is crazy high ( like 1500C).
I have tried to increase the temp to 275, to get actual 180C; printer does not keep the temp at 275, it shuts off the heating!
I loaded a model and try to print, SW counted the G codes, and showed it processed, but there was no physical movement.
Well, it is getting worse and worse!!

8

Re: Extrution Problems 2

At me, blowing air to the extruder driver ensured that there are no gaps (steps skipped, wich were visible seen on the printing). After all I didnt managed yet to print since last broke, but at least I know the cause. Anyway, you can try new things: print at higer speed (60-70 mm/sec).

Fat kids are harder to kidnap!

9

Re: Extrution Problems 2

Gentlemen,
Regarding above the problem, it seems like the sensor reading becomes off with the higher temps;
-I have replaced the temp sensor, and the same results as before.
-the reading is accurate with the room temp (around 25 c), then when the extruder is heating, the reading becoming off almost 100 C at 220C. ( i used two different type of thermometer).
So, in this case i will need to change the scale of temp reading of SoliPress.
Does anyone have any idea how i can apply such thing? either from SW side, or modification on the hardware (maybe a resistor or something)
Please let me know.

10

Re: Extrution Problems 2

100 degrees off is a lot. Measuring temp of something that small is tricky.
To see if you're in the right ball park: if your hot end is reading 240, you should be able to met a bit of filament on the outside of the nozzle. If it melts, its definitely not at 100C.

An IR thermometer averages over an area that spreads out the further you are from it (often a 60 degree cone). The built in laser pointer just shows you the center area.

A thermocouple can be quite accurate - at measuring the temperature of the thermcouple. That has its own drawbacks, including atually getting the thermocouple to the same temperature as what you want to measure. (Your tea kettle will be quite close to 100C, but casually touch the probe to it reads a lower temp.)

To answer your question though - there's a set of tables in the firmware source and one is chosen at compile time. To change the curve you need to pick another table, recompile and reflash the system board.

11 (edited by Skyblue 2015-11-12 13:33:45)

Re: Extrution Problems 2

Akkaya, we know, after many years of use, that Repetier Host is a better printer host than soliprint.  You have much better control, more accurate readings etc while using Repetier.  For your sake, please d/l the Repetier 85b from Solidoodle, which has the bed leveling routine in its code.  It works well, and is reliable as it has been around for years. The only thing I used Soliprint for is to get the initial z offset.  Sorry for all the problems you have been having, hopefully you can resolve them, and get on with design and printing.  Sample pic attached of my latest effort, created mostly in Microsoft's 3d Builder, included with Windows 10.

Post's attachments

20151109_145107 [674896].jpg
20151109_145107 [674896].jpg 595.26 kb, file has never been downloaded. 

You don't have the permssions to download the attachments of this post.

12

Re: Extrution Problems 2

@trayracing;
thank you for your quick reply! I have used two different type of thermometer; 1-Infrared 2-Touch Pin. I believe the touch pin is more accurate, and even the touch pin thermometer read almost 80C  low.
On the other hand, I found that the set screw for the thermocouple affects on the reading as well, which is caused by pressure applied by set screw, i believe.
On the other hand, since the extruder melts some filament, i assume the temp reaches to a certain value in the extruder/block. And i understand that nature of the faulty/error of measurements.
However, i am so desperate that the printer stops at the middle of the printing. I was able to print only one model since i got my printer 8 months ago. I am not using it very often, but any time when i need it, i need to make tons of re-search and modification to be able to print a model.

13

Re: Extrution Problems 2

@skyblue,
thank you for your suggestion. I will try to learn about Repetier Host.
I am not sure if understood completely how to 'd/l the Repetier 85b from Solidoodle'. is there any procedure exist how to embed this function onto repetier host?

14 (edited by Skyblue 2015-11-15 13:25:49)

Re: Extrution Problems 2

akkaya wrote:

@skyblue,
thank you for your suggestion. I will try to learn about Repetier Host.
I am not sure if understood completely how to 'd/l the Repetier 85b from Solidoodle'. is there any procedure exist how to embed this function onto repetier host?

.

Go to solidoodle's home page, under software, look for Repetier 85B.  Auto bed leveling routine is embedded in the 85b version from Solidoodle, in later versions, you would have to add the routine to Slice3r, that's why I still use the 85b version.   Learning curve is short, just adjust your settings in Slice3r, and go.  ,Example-nozzle diameter .4, filiament diameter .3, extrusion multiplier 1, 2 tops 2 bottoms, 2 perimeters.  Also check z lift, and change to .5.  Acceleration setting from 9000? to 900 makes your machine run much smoother.  Remember to save your settings in slice3r after each change, give your new settings a new name, and select  your new settings in Repetier.  I also uncheck auto cooling as In Repetier, you can slow down or speed up your print. Using flow rate, you can control the extrusion value until it works well.  I set speed to 80 to start prints, and adjust up or down to my liking.
You could also go to Repetier's home page and read up on the host, but you want to d/l it from Solidoodle.  Give it a try as it will make your 3d printing experience better.

15

Re: Extrution Problems 2

Most mid-print filament stripping issues are due to the extruder block getting too warm. Make sure your extruder fan is blowing into the block. Many were shipped with the fan backwards. Some people find printing with the lid propped up a bit help keep the extruder block from getting too warm.

Also ensure the extruder gear is lined up with the filament path, as this makes it more prone to stripping.

Make sure your filament is feeding properly - if it snarls or snags, or is tangled on the reel, this can cause stripping at the drive motor.

There's been a lot posted (including pictures) over the months of different causes and ways to help this issue, so explore the old posts.