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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Press → Replace heated Bed
Hi, Yesterday after 6 month of printing without problems, the bed stop heating the skin of the wire is open and melted , I need to replace the pad. what is the parts number ( or a place to buy the heated pad) since the support take to much time to respond.
Any help, advise, will be appreciated.
Regards
Meddo
Since the original one is a 170 mm X 170 mm 24V 90 W With 3M adhesive silicone flexible heater With Thermistor included , its seem to be hard to find.
any help will be appreciated
I can tell you what I did... I replaced my bed heater with a 120v heater, added a solid state relay that is triggered by the original heater output and then updated my firmware to the new PID settings. My bed now heats to 95C in under a minute.
noslenwerdna how did you do the upgrade? Is there a reference anywhere with some more hints? I did the E3Dv6 upgrade and now the hotend is ready in a couple minutes but the bed can take 10 minutes or more to get to temperature.
I concur that replacing the heated bed with a 110v heater is a great upgrade. My 12x8 bed is ready in about a minute.
Do understand that 110v is dangerous and it's not something to play with. It can hurt you, cause fires, and fry electronic boards. Of course, any amount of electricity is dangerous if not handled correctly. If you feel comfortable performing this upgrade, there are lots of people here who would be happy to help you. I strongly encourage you to do some research before you try this.
You'll need to find the right parts first, though:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#silicone-heaters/=zfsbfr (Click on "Flexible Silicone-Rubber Heat Sheets" it won't let me link directly)
http://www.mcmaster.com/#7456k61/=zfscc3
(Note that the relay linked can only handle up to 575 watts on the heater side. You shouldn't need anything that powerful but if you do you'll need to step up the relay as well)
10 minutes to heat a bed is fairly normal and par for the course. You can spend that time running your model through a slicer or netfabb, using the restroom, or play a quick round of solitaire.. Also you should never heat your extruder before your bed. If you let filament sit idle in an at temp extruder it can harden and cause a jam or clog. This is especially true with PLA.
My CT'c takes about 8 minutes to get to 110 with a 230 x 150 bed. That is 3mm aluminum with a 3mm mirror on top and PCB heater attached to aluminum.
Thanks for the references, josh.aeauto. I didn't realize people were using 110VAC heaters. While I've done household wiring (and have lots of experience in the area) I was hoping it was still lower a voltage heater - for the same safety reasons you mention.
I also found some links in http://www.soliforum.com/topic/10104/sd … breakdown/ which I haven't really dug in to yet. Sounds like it'll be lots of reading but maybe not a lot of work.
Hmmm, should I say that my Press take up to 20-25 minutes to heat to 100 C ?
Thanks for the references, josh.aeauto. I didn't realize people were using 110VAC heaters. While I've done household wiring (and have lots of experience in the area) I was hoping it was still lower a voltage heater - for the same safety reasons you mention.
I also found some links in http://www.soliforum.com/topic/10104/sd … breakdown/ which I haven't really dug in to yet. Sounds like it'll be lots of reading but maybe not a lot of work.
If you're familiar with household wiring, it should be easy for you. You'll wire the control side of the relay (3-30v DC) to your board's heated bed output, and wire the 110v bed the same way you would a light switch. See the picture below, where "Electronic Module" is your control signal for the bed, "Load" is your heated bed, and +12v is 110v AC.
It's very simple and worth it, as long as you understand the risks involved.
rrssll wrote:Thanks for the references, josh.aeauto. I didn't realize people were using 110VAC heaters. While I've done household wiring (and have lots of experience in the area) I was hoping it was still lower a voltage heater - for the same safety reasons you mention.
I also found some links in http://www.soliforum.com/topic/10104/sd … breakdown/ which I haven't really dug in to yet. Sounds like it'll be lots of reading but maybe not a lot of work.
If you're familiar with household wiring, it should be easy for you. You'll wire the control side of the relay (3-30v DC) to your board's heated bed output, and wire the 110v bed the same way you would a light switch. See the picture below, where "Electronic Module" is your control signal for the bed, "Load" is your heated bed, and +12v is 110v AC.
It's very simple and worth it, as long as you understand the risks involved.
Did you draw that diagram yourself? Not exactly how I would've done it.
Seriously, understand the process and risks involved here!!!!
Not as pretty but certainly more user friendly
No, that's not my drawing. I didn't have time to make one so I used the closest thing I could find.
Thanks for the diagrams, it does help with understanding the 110V option. I've been looking at the MK2B and it looks like it's a 12VDC/24VDC option. Reading http://reprap.org/wiki/PCB_Heatbed has helped get figure out just how that'd be installed.
The idea I like right now is to get the MK2B board, some kind of thermal insulation for the bottom, PEI for the top, and the 468P adhesive that MacgeyverX refers to in http://www.soliforum.com/topic/10104/sd … breakdown/ . I've yet to dig in to how the current heater works on the Press though. I want to do some IR imaging to see how the heat is distributed right now.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Press → Replace heated Bed
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