Hello All! (Page 3 of 4)

it is an insulating ring made up of a fiberglass material inside and rubber on the outside. and it is a necessity with a solidoodle stock hotend so the thermistor will read halfway decent, being as how it is taped to the outside of the heat block.

if you are gentle with it, you should be able to slip it off with no problem, and re-use it. it does have a little give to it. i was able to do so with mine...

that is what i was worried about, lol  seriously thinking about upgrading.

In agreement and addition to what heartless said, check out the E3D Volcano and Hobb Goblin as well. The Volcano allows large nozzles which means faster printing and is more PLA-friendly than smaller nozzles. I recommend the Hobb Goblin because it really helps resolution. Once I tried them both on one machine, I bought them for my other units without looking back!

However, neither are mandatory for upgrading to the E3D.

I adjusted the Pots on the board, E was over 1v, X, Y, and Z were all about 1.3 to 1.4v.

So they are all correct now, E is down to .256v and the others are at 1.02 to 1.04 
the Moire is pretty much gone.  which is awesome.

however now i am getting some seperation in layers,

calculated E steps are at 100 steps per mm.
RH says i am at 170c extrude(stock head so temp is inaccurate)
I leveled the bed again, adjusted the Z end stop

any suggestions would be appreciated!  super big thank you Azerate and Heartless and others, for all the help.

dont know. I only know what is in RH

bump up the temp a few degrees at a time... 2 or 3, and see if that helps.

I have some ABS that is notorious (in my world) for doing what you have pictured - especially if run through my E3D - not as bad through the stock SD nozzle. Temp is a big factor with this particular filament. (and I wont be buying it again - don't particularly like it)

Quality of the filament is a HUGE factor in this "hobby". Some brands are better than others.

Speed is a factor as well, but I am guessing you haven't tinkered too much with that yet?

I increased the temps, bought a temp gun, seems to work on everything but the printer, its reading about half the temp displayed.  tried hitting the nozzle, the heat block from the top.  80c  i had it about 175  printed better at 178

Ran PID autotune, that seemed to help, i can now print ABS in a gimped capacity, printer is at 216c and barely printing the ABS.

id love to drop 70-80 on a E3D but i cant at the moment,
i am still using the acrylic Jigsaw, as i cannot print ABS components.

what options are out there,
I have seen the E3d Knocks, which for now are more affordable,(they have PTFE above the heat break) I also dont want to assemble it as of right now.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printer-E3D- … 280704b46d

I should be able to remove the bowden adapter, this would then fit in the printer, loosing some Z till i could print out a proper carriage?

I realize that option is out there, however not what i am looking for.

Don't fool yourself...the Lite6 is a spectacular hotend!
If you haven't seen it, myself and Jagowilson gave our reviews here and I continued to run it until a few weeks ago.
It still runs great, but I wanted to compare it to the v6. I haven't really noticed much of a difference since the switch.

Please do not go with the clones. You would deeply regret it in due time, have to buy a true E3D anyway, and be out the cost of the clone.

USPS, did not deliver   hopefully tomorrow and i can join the E3d Crowd.