Hello All! (Page 2 of 4)

Everything was disconnected when that picture was took, that was after i unwrapped the loads of electrical tape...  Fixed the connections, and reconnected the switch.

so my x is off by a little. 
X axis     Measured 21.00  specified 20.
Y axis     Measured 20.02  specified 20.
Z axis     Measured 20.14  specified 20

I am not sure how to adjust the Gcode to fix X.
I adjusted the Filament flow, as it was to high, which caused the majority of blobs.  I also played with the Zstop to get the proper bed height, although i believe it may still be a little off.

I am now also using RH and Slic3r.

have not played with E yet, was wondering how to adjust steps for X, i found the calculations but not how to enter it.

also i am running firmware 1.0

okay so basically i need to figure out how to update the firmware!  cool, thanks.

lol well, that seems to not be easy with a Rev E Printrboard. 
http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … 0-Firmware
there is no "Go to Tools, Boards, and select either "[USBtinyISP]Teensylu/Printrboard" or "[BootloaderCDC]Teensylu/Printrboard]"

what Tin Falcon said - with printer on and connected to RH, go to the Config menu, in the middle of the drop-down is Firmware EEPROM Configuration. Open that and you can enter changes for steps/mm and other things in there.

Before making any changes, however, make note of the default settings just in case you need to revert back. There is a "restore factory settings" button, but it is always good to have these things written down somewhere, just in case...

Cube I just Printed measured out well

@Azerate, i printed a slightly larger piece, and now i can see exactly what you are talking about, since this one has bridges, instead of being solid, the pla comes out in bursts, or pulses as you put it, i ordered a ceramic screwdriver set, wont be here for a while, i need to adjust E which looks like its the top pot, how do i determine the value?

also had a nice glob of something come out the nozzle, burned up some PLA, i think it may have been to hot, or it worked out a clot,  so far the print looks good.

okay, i will work on that.

okay so the two outside pieces look fine, however the middle isnt,  while its printing just the center portion, the bed is even rocking since the nozzle is almost inside the print.  is this why PLA needs a fan?  is there an acceptible way to install a 30mm fan on the stock PSU? since the LEDs already dim out occasionally.

even though the machine is stock? 
I was looking into
http://www.amazon.com/Switching-Power-S … wer+supply

well i just looked at this power supply, its 12v, and 12.5A  0.0  so i think im going to do that upgrade. LOL

Yes, second one definitely looks much better! I have never printed Marvin in PLA, but I have done him in ABS...many times over... my favorite two... i really like the Hatchbox Gold ABS.

the larger one is Advanced Marvin, which can be found on thingiverse.

Not sure if you are aware of this but all filament has a shrinkage factor and it is different with each spool. If you got your cube dialed in then that means your steps per mm are correct for that spool.

Now of course we dont want to change our steps per mm with each roll. So you print a shrinkage test. I use a 30mm block with a 10mm bore through it on the the Z and Y axis. I know it should be 30mm so if it is offvthen I add or subtract that difference to or from my model during designing.

The odd thing in your case I assume the nickle test is the same filament as the cube. If so then your extrusion multiplier may need to be tweaked.

Try changing your multiplier to compensate for the difference. Higher for an object smaller than designed and lower for an object that is larger. The pictures still look like your over extruding a little. On a round object or even a square object that over extrusion would add width on all sides.