Upgrading hotend: Airwolf HD2x to E3D V6 + Volcano (Page 5 of 6)

We're more interested in speed and strength than their visual appeal, so we are using a larger nozzle.

EDIT: Also the material difference makes a huge difference in quality, unless you're using PC... ABS comes out a lot smoother and more crisp than PC.

Here's your STL files.

Some brief notes:
-This will be best printed at 75% or higher and in PC if you have it. I'm sure ABS would do fine if that's all you have but PC will hold up better to the heat and it's more rigid.
-You'll need supports for these parts but make sure your printer doesn't add support inside the ziptie holes. Unless you're using dissolvable support it's nearly impossible to clean it out. *This might be something I can fix with the design. Suggestions are welcome.

You'll need the following:
(2x) M3x20 Socket Head Cap Screw
(2x) M3x45 Socket Head Cap Screw
(4x) M3 Hex Nut
(4x) Small zip ties
(2x) E3D v6 + Volcano Bowden Hotends

If you plan to print at temperatures over 290C, you will need the following:
(2x) E3D Thermocouple
(2x) E3D Thermocouple board

I recommend getting the E3D parts from Filastruder. They are knowledgeable and always happy to help you if you come across any issues. I've placed several orders with them and they've always been outstanding. If you want to trade some of the larger nozzle sizes for smaller ones, I'm sure Tim (elmoret) will work with you on that. Get in touch with them through their website and they'll help you put together the parts you need. http://www.filastruder.com/collections/e3d-hotends

I will have a write-up for you in a day or two to help with the firmware and wiring.

EDIT: Also, if you want to just go with a standard v6, That's possible too, like AZERATE said. Standard v6 might be better for you since you're more interested in quality. Just let me know so I can pull the mount down 10mm as the standard v6 is shorter than the volcano.

The axiom seems like a good printer, but I don't think you'll come out any better as far as quality. Sure, it's auto-leveling, and that's really nice. And it's a brand new printer. But they really didn't change anything on it. The hotend is still a JRx hotend (only in a different case to fit the CoreXY system), and it's still pretty much the same printer. The only difference is you'll be trading two nozzles for one.

In the end it's totally up to you and getting a new printer would be nice. But I don't see much benefit compared to upgrading your hotend. It would be more work, but it's up to you to decide if it's worth it.

Edit: It does look like maybe they changed the heater to a 40 watt cartridge type. But that's still not going to solve your quality problem

Just by way of update on the original topic:

I did my first dual-extrusion print today. I set the extruder offset in firmware to 30mm, a 10mm increase from the original hotend. I printed PC on extruder 1 and ABS on extruder 2. They're both the same color (black is pretty much all we have), but you can still tell where they meet.

I don't think any further adjustments need to be made.

Filastruder PC and ABS?

Sorry if i'm rehashing old info. I have all the parts in place for the hdx with a single e3dv6. I cannot seem to get the firmware updated for the correct temp sensor. I get constant errors trying to use arduino, and yes, I added the LiquidTWI2.h and ccp files but now I get the no member named buzz error. I guess I'm wondering if someone who knows what they are doing, (not me by the way), can just like or send me the hex file or for the correct temp sensor? I'm at a complete loss here....

Thank you in advance!

Post pics when you get it up and running!

Just out of curiosity, what was your reason for switching hotends?

I'm assuming that you're using a thermocouple board. In that case:

There is a 5V supply directly to the right of the HEAT0 output, but I had to solder my own header to it.

I'm using analog pins 4 and 6 for the signal.

In the firmware,

#define TEMP_0_PIN 0

#define TEMP_1_PIN 1

then becomes the following:

#define TEMP_0_PIN 3

#define TEMP_1_PIN 4

(This info credited to Tim at Filastruder)

You can use any of the auxiliary pins for the second thermocouple. If you're using pin 7, I would use pin 5 right beside it.

I afraid I can't be of any help on the numbering. All I can say for sure is that pins 4 and 6 on the RAMBo board are assigned pins 3 and 4 in pins.h. Someone else might be able to shed more light on that than I can.

That's correct, power it in parallel.

It worked!

summarizing, for those interested:
-i plugged in 5v and ground input of both thermocouples, in parallel, to pin 1 and 2 respectively, of the analog extension port.
-signal of thermocouple 1 plugged to pin 4
-signal of thermocouple 2 plugged to pin 6

edited pins.h:
#define TEMP_0_PIN 3
#define TEMP_1_PIN 4

I'll keep you posted on how my new hotends are doing.

Guys, what retraction settings do you use? Namely Length, speed, acceleration? Both hotends are printing fine till they hit an area that needs some retraction, can't even print the hollow piramid torture test, it clogs big time the moment it hits the legs. And I mean it clogs so bad i have to disassemble hotend and burn it with a torch to be able to push filament through. It's not the nozzle, filament solidifies in the heatsink part. The heatsink is cool to touch, so I don't think it's heat creep, more like hot filament actually gets sucked in there and expands.

I'm currently using 6mm retract, is it excessive? I was using 7mm on the oryginal (buddaschnozzle?)
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:29429

I also wonder if the minimum distance between retracts should be always higher then retract distance?

BTW do you have much play in the bowden couplinks? On retract/extrude I can see the tube move back and forth good 2mm on each side. I suspect if I stop this I can reduce my retract distance.

I