Solidoodle 2, Y-axis slipping/skipping (Page 3 of 4)

I have solidoodle 4. And just recently run in same problem - print was constantly stucking on Y-axis. And it was happening from time to time. Sometimes every layer, sometimes every 4th or 10-th.

I did perfect circle realignment, it fixed problem for one or two prints, and again.
Than I noticed what was problem spot.
This part in photo - probably it's bushing, don't know how it's called.
Someone already said bushing might be the problems - but after some test I just found which one was causing all the trouble.

It was stucking from time to time. So I unscrewed it, cleaned it and reaplied grease.
So far prints just fine. Still can't get perfect circlel(for now works for me how it is), at least prints without any stucking on Y-axis.

You might also check those front (oposite to those shown in video) parts, if you haven't already and if construction of solidoodle 2 is similar.

On the opposite side Y-axis also connects to the rod with bushings in solidoodle 4.
Might be similar on that side.

I found this post, and used my old rod to get some leverage on it with a hammer and was able to eventually knock them out.

http://www.soliforum.com/search/2015026015/

The post though, talks about sanding the holes to be a bit wider - how would I go about doing that?

Push the bushings from the inside out, even the black part.  Then ensure your rod new or old fits into the bearings.  If they are too tight you may need to sand the rod down.  An easy way to do this is place the rod in a drill.  Then spin it while holding emery cloth or sandpaper on the rod.  Continue to check for fit with your bearings. 
As for the holes in the frame, if your bearings don't fit you can use the same emery cloth to sand out the hole slightly by rolling the cloth into a tube and sliding it in and out of the hole.  Again checking for fit as you go.  You'll want to put your flanged bearings in from the outside.

That's only a good idea if you would like to crack the bearings, ask me how I know.
Sand the rod if needed, emery cloth isn't exactly expensive and can be found in the plumbing section at any hardware store.

Okay - I'll definitely do the emery cloth+drill method to sand the rod as needed.  Sorry I missed that suggestion in your first post, WardJr - read too fast and thought you were talking about the hole in the frame.

Really hoping this gives me enough to get my printer printing that Y-motor mount. <crosses fingers>

So I went and got a few M3 screws to try to attach the Y-Motor direct drive, but I've run into problems.

The Y motor silver casing apparently is just pushed on without the frame screws that hold it in place.  If I screw the original m3-33mm length screws that held it on the printer, they don't go all the way through.  Looks like I'll need some 43mm length m3 screws, which I don't think I saw at home depot.

When the back came off, some of the washers inside the motor popped out.  I noticed they were bent to shit.  This makes me wonder if I need new washers in there as well (or possibly a new Y-motor?). 

Edit:  Well, looking closer at one of the washers, it is like a sin wave, so maybe this is by design... :\

if the motor is wobbling the two shafts are out of center. line them up so it spins true 

you should put 2 of the original Y motor screws diagonal from each other to hold the back together. 2 of the original Y motor screws diagonal from each other in opposite holes to mount the motor itself.

the coupler won't help you line up the motor. who's direct drive design are you using? the design has to allow alignment.

well, yes, but the motor will still wobble like that if the alignment is poor.

anyway, his design allows you to align the motor in the Y and Z direction. even without an oldham style coupler I imagine you can get close. long term you will want an oldham coupler though yes, but it should not substitute for extreme misalignment.

Z alignment is handled by the teardrop holes in the frame. Y alignment is handled by moving the motor left and right and re-tightening the screws.

Sorry for Necro, but this describes my precise problem except with a new twist.  It seems to happen only when the printer is "cold".   When i do a new print after sitting for a day or so  homing almost always binds and i get humming/grinding and Y doesn't move. 

When i disable the motor, i can move it back and forth without any problems.  after jogging it back and forth using manual controls a few times, it seems to work.  (mostly? I was getting some x/y skew in one print i was assuming was because of overextrusion snags.. maybe it was this)    I was hoping the motor was dying ..or maybe the driver.  Something i could drop in and forget about for a little while.

All my brackets seem fine.  the belts have same tension they always have.

I finally got confident enough with my calibration etc to attempt a real project (3dpburner) and this shows up ..sigh.  Anything you guys can suggest before i buckle down and rebuild my Y-axis?

I assume 3 in 1 oil will work to lube the bushings (forward and back).  I don't think i saw anyone mention what i should lube with in the thread.  Sorry if i missed it.  Also i assume i would need to remove one of the X rods and the y carriage to do anything about the linear bearings?

Edit:. I now hate solidoodle.  I went and disassembled my y axis and re greased everything.  Still have y shifts.  Went to take out the front pullys to see if there was hidden damage and noticed they were attached with red threadlocker.  Unfortunately this was after I stripped the head.  Looks like I have to destroy the brackets.to get it off.  Why use threadlocker on such a delicate part... I know from experience that threadlocker turns abs into dust.  I can't even print rep!acement brackets. 

So.. now my choice seems to be give up and buy another printer or buy some more brackets from someone and break out the blowtorch with no guarantee it will fix anything. 

So much for my laser engraver project...