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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → Need advice on how to handle a situation with Solidoodle
chancrescolex,
How you could fix the z offset when you change the extruder position?
Only change the setting or what do you do?
Can you post a pictures about the screw on the extrude system ? and other with the change?
Thanks men for this solution.
chancrescolex,
How you could fix the z offset when you change the extruder position?
Only change the setting or what do you do?
Can you post a pictures about the screw on the extrude system ? and other with the change?
Thanks men for this solution.
Those are the screws you want to use. Just bring the bed up until it's touching the lower extruder, loosen the screw for the other extruder, and bring it down so it's also touching the bed.
Then you'll probably need to do a z-offset calibration, shown here: http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … alibration
chancrescolex,
thank you so much. it is very important.
Just received the new printer in the mail and gave it a quick inspection at work. Noticeable improvement in quality of all the printed parts. Minor differences in construction between the two printers. I'll try to take thorough pictures of both printers and detail all the differences before shipping the old one back.
They shipped me back the aluminum cased power supply with this printer (again with no wall plug though). I like that this power supply has a power switch. The black plastic one that came with the other printer has to be unplugged to turn the printer off. Which one do you guys think I should keep?
The aluminum one but you want to check the output ratings and keep the biggest one.
The aluminum one but you want to check the output ratings and keep the biggest one.
Ok, I'll do that.
For my own future reference, these are the aluminum power supply specs:
Model: SD-WB105A, switchable 115V/230V
Input Voltage: 90-132/180-264VAC 47-63Hz
Output Voltage: DC 12V±5%
Power: 150W
Rated Current: 12.5A
Fuse: 250V
Plastic power supply specs:
Model: ST-C-150-12001250AT
Input: 100-240V~3A, 50/60Hz
Output: 12V DC 12.5A
haven't heard from you how is the printer working ?
haven't heard from you how is the printer working ?
Haven't had much time to test it out yet. I've only done a few test prints and I'm still working on calibrating and fine tuning. I'm happier with the printer quality overall compared to the last one though. Only thing that I don't like is that my z-axis threaded rod is bent quite a bit. I'm looking into replacing it with an M5 rod.
if it makes you feel any better i'm hoping to finally get my printer back from solidoodle tomorrow friday at the latest if they remembered to send it out they haven't bothered to update me on it.
I did give the support people some advice on how to do their job.
#1 don't promise anything you can't do
#2 its better to be honest and tell people it may not be possible at the outset then to tell them it can be done and then it doesn't get done
and last
#3 try to reply to people in a timely manner because all you do is piss them off more by ignoring the problem
so i may see my printer next month
so i may see my printer next month
Any luck with the printer?
it didn't get here they haven't' sent me a tracking number and i'd sure hate for my first trip to the bronx to be with intentional mayhem on my mind
if it gets here tomorrow we may re consider the mayhem part 
they changed their help number so i can't even call and bitch at them which bugs me a help desk should well help
Finally got everything calibrated with decent results and had a chance to print something useful.
model: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:91720
0.2mm layer height
Only issue is the z banding, which I believe stems from my z rod being super bent. I couldn't remove the banding even with a well nut. I've already begun looking into replacing the rod with an M5 rod.
that looks good and yeah how long will replacing the zrod take?
that looks good and yeah how long will replacing the zrod take?
There's a full thread on it here.
It's a cheap and simple upgrade, but one of the required parts might take me a while to make. I want to use the machine shop at my school to put an M5 threaded hole in the center of a 5/16" bolt so I can just use that as an adapter to screw into the bed. That way I can easily return to the stock configuration if I ever wanted to. I'm also exploring other options though.
Here's a better photo of the banding that I'm getting
holy crap thats some gnarly banding
You should let Solidoodle know that not everything is more pleasurable when it's ribbed 
There are some uses for a 3D printer that would benefit from this problem....
Exactly!
You should let Solidoodle know that not everything is more pleasurable when it's ribbed
+1
Here's a better photo of the banding that I'm getting
That would actually be a good-looking print if you had designed it to look like that
I ordered my solidoodle 4 and got nothing! After they said to refund me in 15 days they didn't and now they are not replying on my emails. Will never see my money or a printer. Solidoodle is criminal fraud and people should stand up to them. It don't take 2 months to refund some money
I can tell you my experience: Bought a printer in April, paid printer plus shipment. Never got a printer. Asked for refund. They don't answer me in any channel I'm trying to reach them: Reddit, Twitter, Facebook, Google groups, Linkedin, phone, mail. In each place I look I see customers complaining about the same: paid their money, dont get anything, and I see a similar pattern in all the cases: communication has stopped from their side a few weeks ago. Looks like they have a strategy that is answering in public Forums that they will continue the discussion in Private Messaging, but then they dont respond (check Facebook). I'm discussing with credit card chargeback, and submitting claims with different consumer protections entities (NY, FTC, fraud protection entities, etc). At least I want to assure other get aware and dont waist their money and time like a lot of us already did.
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