51

Re: E3D (V6)

Time to go pay for this stuff.

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

52

Re: E3D (V6)

wardjr wrote:
hostinggeek wrote:

not sure what the 300x300 SD bed is rated at.  Thanks for the info wardjr.

You're welcome
You could measure the resistance and then apply a little Ohms Law wink

Careful with that - it could be a fair bit different between cold and hot.

e.g. assuming you measure at 20C, and the copper when running is itself is at least 110C (what the thermistor is measuring - likely it's higher than this!) then you should expect the hot resistance to be 1 + (90 * 0.00386) ~= 1.35x the cold resistance, which will affect the power (i.e. the power when hot is probably going to be about 75% of what you calculate based on cold resistance). smile

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

53

Re: E3D (V6)

Lol, or i could just bug SD support...

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

54

Re: E3D (V6)

Or go the route most of us seem to prefer and use a relay wink

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

55

Re: E3D (V6)

Hey, I saw you might have done some work with auto bed leveling and rumba.  Did you ever get it to work?  The push down probe thing on the workbench was the first thing on my list of things that had to go, but I wasn't sure their controller would support the $2 servo they omitted.  I've seen it work on i3's before, and it looks like it should work well.  Prusa models are actually pretty easy to keep level though.  I don't have any experience with SD printers, but it seems from reading around the cantilever is not the best at staying put, so it might be nice to get that working well.

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

56

Re: E3D (V6)

I don't know if you're asking me or Grob but my vote is eliminate the auto leveling feature.  I have yet to see the reliability and repeatability match that of manual leveling.  Plus it goes through that process for every print.  I rarely have to adjust my bed and even then it's because I made some sort of change.  To your question the Rumba is going to have no issues with an auto leveling sequence.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

57

Re: E3D (V6)

I figured it was kind of a novelty, but with a servo doing the job, I didn't mind.  The added complexity does make it an easy project to ditch if it doesn't work well.  I don't mind it doing it every job if it actually works.

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

58

Re: E3D (V6)

And that is a huge if wink

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

59

Re: E3D (V6)

lol.  hater.

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

60

Re: E3D (V6)

any ideas on the diameter of the stock hot ends in the workbench?  just curious if the existing aluminum hot end mount is going to work.  I see the set screw in there, which is what the mk8 extruder on my Prusa has, and I had a similar hot end on it when I got it.  If the diameter is the same on stock and e3d, the retrofit should be easy by the look of things.

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

61

Re: E3D (V6)

Reviving this dead post.  Got my workbench.  It's a mess.  Not shocked after all the grief I gave them for being late.  After getting everything lined up, I can see I need to do some work on this thing if it's even going to come close to working as well as my Prusa. 

First problem was the y belt issue, which was an easy fix.  The next thing was the hotends couldn't possibly have been tested for an actual print job.  They were completely uneven, and needed to be adjusted, which meant I needed to level the bed, at least on the x axis, to keep them from dragging through the test job I was running, which is nothing but a 3x25mm disc.  I got that to print badly, and moved on.  At this point it seems that at least mechanically I'm ok for now. 

I'm having an issue with the z-axis calibration, which has gone badly so many times, that now I have a clogged hotend.  I'm drawing a mount for a pair of e3d v6's this weekend to deal with that.  Should I make a z endstop mount, and stop the probe altogether at this point.  It's ok that it does it, and it doesn't take that long, but I'm waiting for it to break.  Hopefully the new hotends will heat up a bit faster than the old ones.  It's taking on average about 10 minutes to reach 200c with the fans up.  If I leave them down, it will take much longer.  The bed heats faster than the hotends do right now.  Go figure. 

Something else notable, is that a few times in RH, after probing is done, the bed has crashed into the hotends to the point of stalling.  This only happens with RH.  Soliprint actually works fine.  It needs some work, but it's not terrible.

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

62

Re: E3D (V6)

Well, I can say that an E3Dv6 gets to 200C in about a minute and a half. 10 minutes is crazy talk!

63 (edited by jagowilson 2015-04-30 17:42:31)

Re: E3D (V6)

You could get a chimera instead of two V6s. Cheaper, possibly lighter, won't lose as much build space and the leveling mechanism is built in to the hotend for both nozzles.

64

Re: E3D (V6)

the one on my prusa gets there quick.  I'm wondering if there's something else going on there.  I already have the E3Dv6's, and the mount is half drawn.  Hopefully I'll test it this weekend.

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

65

Re: E3D (V6)

And I can say that my limited experience tells me to ditch the probe and auto leveling as soon as possible.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

66

Re: E3D (V6)

I'm a big fan of ninjaflex.  not sure the chimera will work.  Is there a direct drive setup for it?

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

67

Re: E3D (V6)

I was going there myself too wardjr.  I already did the work, why wait for the probe now...

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

68

Re: E3D (V6)

pretty sure the hobbed pulley is all gummed up from trying to print through the glass.  Have to clean it up to go anywhere with it.  I'm going to try to get the stock extruder to work with the new , so others don't feel they have to go out and drop $160 on bulldogs if they don't "want" to.

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

69

Re: E3D (V6)

So if I want to kill the probe, I guess I can dig up an sd4 z-endstop stl somewhere if I look around right?  no need to reinvent a very round fast spinning wheel.

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

70

Re: E3D (V6)

Consider looking at Lawsy's MK-5 design. Any design you make should have adjustable tension on the tensioning arm that holds the filament in place. For ABS and PLA, you'll get away with no adjustable tension, but not with nylon, t Glase or ninjaflex. Adjustable tension is very, very important.

71

Re: E3D (V6)

This looks perfect:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:340445

but I'd have to create a mirror of it to put two together.

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

72 (edited by jagowilson 2015-04-30 18:12:55)

Re: E3D (V6)

Try this one instead. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:393928 it's the one we all use on our v6. works great.

Not sure what the creator of that particular extruder had in mind, but the PTFE tubing on the V6 will be sufficient for ninjaflex. You do not need to make any specific design choices for ninjaflex in the extruder, aside from adjustable tension.

Edit: That extruder is for the V5 which did not use PTFE tubing. The v6 will support the ninjaflex with the tubing.

73

Re: E3D (V6)

The regular mk5 could work fine too.  Not sure how to deal with the tension screw.  The carriage is the easy part.  If I decide to keep the probe, I'm going to use a servo.  Remembering to put it down after every use is for toilet seats.

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

74

Re: E3D (V6)

That one looks good, but it needs a little more guidance for ninjaflex.  I like the simplicity though.

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

75

Re: E3D (V6)

No it doesn't. That's my point wink you just cut the PTFE longer! smile