26

Re: E3D (V6)

I swear I did not see your post above linking to that... tongue well that was easy.

27

Re: E3D (V6)

hahahaha. no worries smile

28

Re: E3D (V6)

anybody have any info on how to fit e3d v6 on my solidoodle workbench

29

Re: E3D (V6)

No one has designed a mount yet--maybe a good opportunity to brush up your CAD skills. Otherwise, you'll just have to wait.

30

Re: E3D (V6)

can tinkercad do the job, if so i will only need the dimentions of E3D-V6 to design the mount around it

31

Re: E3D (V6)

I don't see why not. E3d publishes the drawings for their hotends so take a look. Let us know what you come up with! Also consider the chimera or cyclops, which might make your life easier than two e3d v6s.

32

Re: E3D (V6)

So is it worth going to rumba if you can swing it, or will a printer board work fine?  I did the constant printer hacking thing with my prusa, which is awesome now, but too small.  I want this one to work from the beginning.  I'm ordering the e3d v6's in a couple of days, since my printer won't ship til the first week of april.  If no one has drawn a carriage by then, I'll take a crack at it.  I have an extra ramps 1.4 setup on hand, but rumba seems to be a step above ramps as far as forum opinions go.  Can anyone verify this for me?  Why or why isn't it better or worse?

Thanks!

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

33

Re: E3D (V6)

It would be nice if I could get some real dimensions on the existing carriage and extruder to start drawing a new mount.  I was told by solidoodle support the workbench uses sd4 extruders.  Don't know if it's true, or if it helps.

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

34

Re: E3D (V6)

hostinggeek wrote:

So is it worth going to rumba if you can swing it, or will a printer board work fine?  I did the constant printer hacking thing with my prusa, which is awesome now, but too small.  I want this one to work from the beginning.  I'm ordering the e3d v6's in a couple of days, since my printer won't ship til the first week of april.  If no one has drawn a carriage by then, I'll take a crack at it.  I have an extra ramps 1.4 setup on hand, but rumba seems to be a step above ramps as far as forum opinions go.  Can anyone verify this for me?  Why or why isn't it better or worse?

Thanks!

I have used RAMPS and RUMBA and I think that RUMBA is better because of the multiple fan pins, 12V rail provided, and the neat wire hook up (no motor wires over other parts of the board since all plugs are on the outside.  Also, the RUMBA has pin headers and bare wire screw terminals for your motors, which is very convenience so you don't have to crimp 20+ wire leads onto their pins.  It also seems to be must more robustly constructed.

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

35

Re: E3D (V6)

Thanks for that.  I still run the sanguinolou on my prusa, because other than the occasional overheated stepper, it really hasn't given me any grief.  I had a small problem with overheating plugs at the beginning, so I soldered pigtails with bullet connectors on everything.  Yes it was overkill, but I never had to do it again.  The rumba looks like a beefed up sansuinololu.  Does it perform any better, other than what you described?

Thanks,

Rick

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

36

Re: E3D (V6)

hostinggeek wrote:

The rumba looks like a beefed up sansuinololu.  Does it perform any better, other than what you described?


Define perform.  Motor performance will depend on your drivers more than the board.  A heater is a heater and that does not depend on the board.  The firmware flash is very straightforward, but I have never flashed to a sang. board so I can't compare.  I know the prinrboard is a pain to flash.  That being said, a RUMBA is going to be an overall much more pleasant experience than a RAMPS.  Unless you are severely limited in funds (and can't wait to save up), go RUMBA.  Genuine, direct from reprapdiscount.

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

37 (edited by jagowilson 2015-03-19 22:27:58)

Re: E3D (V6)

mdrVB6 wrote:

A heater is a heater and that does not depend on the board.

You are mostly correct, however I wanted to add a little bit of extra information.

Some RUMBAs come with silver (I think?) traces, while others use copper traces. I've purchased 2 RUMBAs, one which had copper traces and one which had silver traces. The silver trace board takes 10-15 minutes to heat the bed. The copper trace board takes 5 minutes to heat the bed. So, the board can make a difference, if the heater signals experience significant voltage drop.

Unfortunately it seems to be random. Some orders get copper traces, others don't.

I may be wrong about the materials of the traces, but one looks like copper (almost certainly) and the other has a shiny metalic look.

38

Re: E3D (V6)

Thanks again for your input guys.  So since we're talking price, the printrboard is the hands down winner for most expensive.  Is the quality worth keeping if I'm just going to flash it with marlin anyway?  It would seem to me that any 8bit board running marlin for as simple an instruction set as a printer is going to print the same as long as it doesn't melt.  Am I wrong to assume this?  I don't care about printing 500mm/sec.  I just want good quality prints consistently, which is what I'm getting now.  I'm just watching the prusa start to come apart after two years of getting hammered for 4-10 hours a day.  It's time for a tougher printer.  It stinks that the product is inconsistent with the RUMBA.  I actively cool my steppers on the prusa, which has helped a lot.  I'm guessing I'm going to have to do all of that to the WB when it arrives.  I hope it doesn't become a very expensive spare printer.  It looks like a decent printer, despite all the complaints from folks that are new to the hobby.  I didn't expect plug and play from Solidoodle.  That's only a bad thing if they didn't mean it to be that way.

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

39

Re: E3D (V6)

It is a little funny that I'm essentially gutting a brand new printer.

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

40 (edited by grob 2015-03-19 23:22:11)

Re: E3D (V6)

hostinggeek wrote:

Thanks again for your input guys.  So since we're talking price, the printrboard is the hands down winner for most expensive.  Is the quality worth keeping if I'm just going to flash it with marlin anyway?

The printrboard specs don't match up to a RUMBA - not sure it's the highest quality option out there, all things considered. I'll leave it up to you to choose, but there are a lot of other choices! e.g. to make it work with multiple extruders, it requires a daughter board... Not to mention the complicated firmware update procedure, as it uses a more esoteric Arduino architecture (teensy).

hostinggeek wrote:

It would seem to me that any 8bit board running marlin for as simple an instruction set as a printer is going to print the same as long as it doesn't melt.  Am I wrong to assume this?  I don't care about printing 500mm/sec.  I just want good quality prints consistently, which is what I'm getting now.

Partly true - any 8-bit micro based board will run the same firmware (if you so choose) and make the same decisions at the same speed. The things that set these boards apart is interface hardware: how many extruders/heaters/thermistors can it handle? Is the board design good for high-current heaters or do the traces/components choke up? If you blow a stepper driver from excessive experimentation, can you replace it? Think about this in choosing whether to replace the board on the WB.

IMO, the printrboard is a little lightweight on the extruder count and the heater capacity, and the stepper chips are soldered on so there's no scope to fiddle around with them. A theoretical RUMBA is better on all these counts (but of course not perfect either!).

hostinggeek wrote:

I'm just watching the prusa start to come apart after two years of getting hammered for 4-10 hours a day.  It's time for a tougher printer.

Hehe mechanical engineering really is only a little bit function, and a whole lot of reliability, manufacturability, durability, etc. etc. 3D printer design on a budget doesn't make it all the way through the process I'm afraid. smile Glad you got some love out of it, enjoy the next one!!

hostinggeek wrote:

It stinks that the product is inconsistent with the RUMBA.

Buy from a reputable source, and you'll get what you paid for. The same issue goes for any open source board. It's important with these, as things like copper weight and hardware quality makes up an important chunk of the experience of the board.

hostinggeek wrote:

I actively cool my steppers on the prusa, which has helped a lot.  I'm guessing I'm going to have to do all of that to the WB when it arrives.

Nothing wrong with adding fans! Note that steppers are able to run quite hot (70C or so is usually OK, nothing will melt - this will feel burning hot to the touch!).

hostinggeek wrote:

I hope it doesn't become a very expensive spare printer.  It looks like a decent printer, despite all the complaints from folks that are new to the hobby.  I didn't expect plug and play from Solidoodle.  That's only a bad thing if they didn't mean it to be that way.

It would be hard to sell anything other than "plug and play" when the whole market is hell-bent on cleaning up with the 3d printer equivalent of the Apple II...

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

41

Re: E3D (V6)

That was a kick ass answer.

I'm leaning toward the rumba from reprapdiscount with the beefier steppers.  I want this thing to work as it should while I figure out how to push it further.  Strong foundation.  The prusa air2 runs like a champ with a 200 x 300 bed and 140mm build height at 100mm/sec when I push it, and I have no dependability issues despite the zip tie that's been holding the y rod up for months.  I printed the part to fix it, and zip tied it to the threaded rod beneath the carriage.  I don't plan on getting rid of it.  It's ugly, and noisy, but I love the thing.  I hope this one lives up to it.  SD owners seem to have about an 80% love/20% hate relationship with their printers.  I can live with that.

Thanks again.

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

42

Re: E3D (V6)

Just to be clear the variation in traces came from boards purchased directly from RepRapDiscount. I wouldn't buy the rumba anywhere else, as they are the OEM.

43 (edited by hostinggeek 2015-03-20 02:14:17)

Re: E3D (V6)

I'm assuming since they're the oem, they'll replace a jacked up board if it doesn't heat my build plate.   I'm imagining that bed needing an SSR and its own power supply to be consistent and quick to heat.  My 200x300 takes about 5 minutes to get to 60c.  300x300 has to be tough to heat for any board. I think I remember reading somewhere in the marlin firmware that it supports using a relay to heat a bed.

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

44

Re: E3D (V6)

Anytime you can feed a bed heater from its own PSU via relay you will improve heat up times.  That being said the Rumba has its own separate circuit for the heat bed (HB PWR). So do your homework and understand the wattage of your heater and the max wattage that the Rumba HB circuit is rated for.  Then as long as you provide enough power your heat up times should be great.  If however, your heaters wattage is above what the Rumba is rated for then yes you'll need to use a relay.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

45

Re: E3D (V6)

IIRC the bed heater max wattage the Rumba can handle is 132 watts.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

46

Re: E3D (V6)

I have a bit of reading to do on the rumba.  I scanned the wiki, but I didn't go through it all that well.  Documentation on RRD's site isn't great.  As it turns out, the ramps 1.4 kit I have came from them too, to my pretty screen will work too.  I've never used the one on the prusa, but I'll install it.  It's informational...  Thanks again for the help.  I had an idea where I was going, but you guys seem to have driven it home.  Good to know I was almost on the right path.  My wife shot me down on putting a skid steer under it.  Damn it!

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

47

Re: E3D (V6)

not sure what the 300x300 SD bed is rated at.  Thanks for the info wardjr.

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

48

Re: E3D (V6)

hostinggeek wrote:

not sure what the 300x300 SD bed is rated at.  Thanks for the info wardjr.

You're welcome
You could measure the resistance and then apply a little Ohms Law wink

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

49

Re: E3D (V6)

I cant imagine it's too much with a stock 320w psu on the unit.  I'll just throw a meter on it and see where the temp gets at say 100w, if it even needs to get that high.  Not sure how rumba controls that.  I'm sure there is a limit in marlin for that.

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

50

Re: E3D (V6)

That I could

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.