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Topic: madfalcon81's corner

Order ID: 28515
Date Ordered: 28/08/2014

Your order has been updated to the following status:
Shipped.

So, as you probably see my Press is on its way. In this post I will try to sum my experience with Press, when it will arrive. I will gladly accept any advice, as log it is free wink. For the start, please feel free to post 2 things:
1) What kind of software you use and especially the settings for it, (both PLA and ABS) and any other material used (with success). (temperature, flow rate, etc, everything).
2) The solution for problems that you ecounter. (only the fixed ones). Dont worry, I will read the Fix solution for Press, but I will also be glad if you post here.
Thank you all !!

Fat kids are harder to kidnap!

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Re: madfalcon81's corner

I was think of making a my experiences with the press as well.

Before you make your first print, make sure that the extruder drive gear set screw is tight. 90% of all my problems are cause by that little screw.

If you use Soildprint up the hotend temp to 230-240. I am still testing this.

If the LED light strip has not fallen during shipping it will most likely fall during a print. It will some how fling itself into the middle of the print bed.

Good luck, keep us updated.

3 (edited by madfalcon81 2015-03-09 17:42:08)

Re: madfalcon81's corner

Hi again. After a long 3-4 days saga with the customs officials, due to a little error in price+transport (wink, wink) I finally got the Press. I already unboxed it, it seems that packaging is very sturdy (the box looks like it was hit or something, but printer is OK). Aaaaand here ends the good side of the story. The printer is not seen by windows. (I have windows 7 ultimate, I think), tryed in different order (with soliprint 1.1.2, then start the press and viceversa) and it says "searching for printer" and "No connection to printer". My computer does that sound that it finds some new device, but it looks like no drivers are installed. Any ideas ?

LE: This seems to work so far:

atrayu wrote:

ISSUE: SoliPrint v1.1.0 not finding Press on OSX.
CAUSE: Computer demons.
FIX: Connect via SoliDoodle's Repetier Host.  Try running a very quick sample/calibration. Then close Repetier Host. Try starting SoliPress V1.1.0.  Connect to the Press.  Try running a very quick sample/calibration. Install SoliPrint v1.1.0.  Connect to the Press.  Try running a very quick sample/calibration. If any step doesn't work, try every permutation you can think of power cycling & connecting the computer, press, and SoliPrint/Repetier Host software.  Eventually mine magically worked.  Unfortunately can't reproduce, since it works now every time.


But there is one thing that I have done, I change the USB cable (for those who play with Arduino, the cable is the same and it work with that). I dont know if is the cable, but a sum of trying with Solidoodle repetier host + chancing the cable with an Arduino's one, it workd. So far.

Fat kids are harder to kidnap!

4 (edited by madfalcon81 2015-03-14 19:31:34)

Re: madfalcon81's corner

Hi there. After 2 resonable printings of small objects and a g'zillions failrues I ran into a bigger problem: The extruder doesnt extrude anymore. The stepper motor is turning (I dont believe there is a problem) but the ABS doesnt come out. It is posible that the nozzle has been cloged ? I tryed heating up at 260 C and extrude something, but still nothing. If it is clogged, any simple way to unclog ? Any ideas will be appreciated. Thanks !


LE: it appears thet the extruder is fine. The stepper motor has a wheel that brings down the filament to extruder: the motor spins, but the wheel doesnt. It should have a screw or something ?

Fat kids are harder to kidnap!

5

Re: madfalcon81's corner

should have a socket head set screw in it takes a small hex key aka allen wrench.
tin

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

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Re: madfalcon81's corner

Looks like the grub screw is there in your photo.
SD instructions on tightening: http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … Drive-Gear
However, that didn't work well for me, as the slot on the left was slightly too tight to turn the hex key. Spent under a buck for an extra hex key, and ground the short end shorter so I could tighten from the front.

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Re: madfalcon81's corner

Yeah, today I noticed is still there.I managed to straight him with a regular screwdriver and from outside. We' ll how much time it holds that way. Thanks both tin and trayracing.

Fat kids are harder to kidnap!

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Re: madfalcon81's corner

Modern spool holder:

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i99/madfalcon81/20150315_1337011_zps4nxydadu.jpg

Fat kids are harder to kidnap!

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Re: madfalcon81's corner

madfalcon81 wrote:

Modern spool holder:

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i99/madfalcon81/20150315_1337011_zps4nxydadu.jpg

Lol! That's awesome!

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Re: madfalcon81's corner

First video on Press experience so far:

Fat kids are harder to kidnap!

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Re: madfalcon81's corner

I won the 100 gr. Taulman Bridge filament in winter. How is it different from ABS and what do you recommend to us it for ?

Fat kids are harder to kidnap!

12

Re: madfalcon81's corner

260° for ABS is way to much. Your nozzle is probably cloged. Try cleaning it with Aceton. I had my best Prints with 240° so far.

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Re: madfalcon81's corner

Partial answer to one of your questions in the video:
Mine came with 2 screws in holes in the bottom of the bed at the back. SD warns against making those tight, as this can cause the Z axis to bind. Making them snug does remove a lot of slop in the bed.
As for size, I think another poster in the forum said what they used.  (Although that might be for the side holes - I don't recall)

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Re: madfalcon81's corner

Advice: (it would have been good if anybody would have told it to me): NEVER open the front door during midprint, especially if your room window is open and there is a difference of temperature: the print will come off the glass bed sad.

Fat kids are harder to kidnap!

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Re: madfalcon81's corner

madfalcon81 wrote:

Advice: (it would have been good if anybody would have told it to me): NEVER open the front door during midprint, especially if your room window is open and there is a difference of temperature: the print will come off the glass bed sad.

I guess you should know that it isn't good to take a bath with your printer either tongue

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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Re: madfalcon81's corner

Question: If my calibration cube is designed at 20 mm and in reality is 19,5 mm where is the problem ?

Fat kids are harder to kidnap!

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Re: madfalcon81's corner

If it is 19.5 on both axis it could be three things.
1. Shrinkage especially with ABS
2. Loose belts or other play in the mechanics.
3. Steps per mm adjusted in EEPROM.  If you call for 20 mm's of movement do you actually get that.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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Re: madfalcon81's corner

its 19,5 on Z axis actually.

Fat kids are harder to kidnap!

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Re: madfalcon81's corner

That's mostly because of the first layer being squished.  Check this by printing something 25mm and 30 if they are all only .5 off its the first layer squish.  If it increases with height then that's steps per mm.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

20

Re: madfalcon81's corner

Of course new week, new problem: my extruder doesnt extrude. The stepper spins, but the filament doesnt enter the nozzle. I belive its somehow clogged there. How can I unclogged it ? Also, the box wich holds the nozzle is covered in burned plastic. Can I use medicinal alcohol to clean it ?

Fat kids are harder to kidnap!

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Re: madfalcon81's corner

Acetone

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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Re: madfalcon81's corner

remove the heating element before cleaning the "box"

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Re: madfalcon81's corner

Aaaand new problem: now extruder stepper motor make a thump noise. But it only does it aprox 20 minutes after it starts the print. My first guess was that I overextrude (since once it clogged the nozzle), but now I am not so sure: maybe it overheats ?
Any ideas ?

Fat kids are harder to kidnap!

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Re: madfalcon81's corner

Thumping causes are well discussed in other threads

25 (edited by scruffybob 2015-04-19 22:52:22)

Re: madfalcon81's corner

Since this only seems to occur after the Press gets hot, my best guess (since I've seen it several times before ) is that the extruder block is getting too hot and the filament is getting too soft before it goes into the nozzle.    This would cause it to break above the block, so the extruder can't push any more into the hole that's already blocked.

The easiest fix was to reverse the fan, so it blows into the extruder, rather than away from it.   On my replacement Press, the fan was already reversed like this.

If this is the problem, the easiest way to check this out is to look between the extruder stepper and the point where the filament enters the heatblock.    If the filament is crooked (kind of like an "S") or broken here, this is most likely the problem.

Several people tried to address the problem by leaving the doors and lid open (to cool it off), but I found that while it solved the jamming problem, it led to inconsistent layer adhesion.   The fan solution seemed to work well for me.