1

Topic: Getting good scans

Now that I started playing with this gadget, I need to figure out how to get some usable scans out of it.  There are so many questions that I can't find the answers to.

I followed the instructions on calibration and I can now get the scanner to generate something that looks remotely like the object I'm scanning, but it really need a lot of work.   So below are some of the first problems and questions I'd like to resolve. 

1.  Camera focus.  Is there a way to focus the camera, manually or electronically?  The object on the turntable is not in sharp focus, and when I look at the camera live feed I can't tell the difference between low res (640x480 and the higher resolution 1.9 or 5Mpixels) 

2.  There is an option to scan with either the left, the right or both lasers.  What is the difference between the options.  By default it wants to scan with the right laser.

I know I'm getting ahead of myself here, but we'll probably need some kind of "post scan" clean up instructions.  The resulting scan has many open holes, and areas that just weren't "seen" by the laser.  Additionally, the surface is extremely noisy, and has many errors.  Even the little sample that was included with the software (a little Buddha statuette scan) suffers from this.  How do we fix this?

I know that in the earlier thread in the "projects" forum, MeshLab was mentioned as the tool used to clean up the model.  Instructions on how to do this would be very helpful here.

So without further ado, here are the the results of the first scan attempts, with all their warts:

This is a composite of what the camera sees at default resolution (1600x1200).  Next to it is the test shot, with the Laser Threshold set to 5.

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=8713


The next image is resulting scan PLY point cloud file, loaded in MeshLab.  Notice all the missing parts.  The only reason you can see recognizable features is because of the color texture map.

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=8714


Last is the generates STL file loaded into NetFabb.  No texture here, so the model is almost unrecognizable.  The right side shows a closeup of the surface.  Super jaggy and noisy.

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=8715


Obviously were a long, long way from what we saw on the previews from Uriah.  So we definitely need some guidance here.

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2

Re: Getting good scans

Update 1

I did another scan, this time with the laser threshold at 3.  It looks like it picked up more of the model, especially on the feet and the back, but it also started to pick up extraneous stuff that's not really there.

Anyway, I also brought the PLY file into MeshLab and started playing with the various surface reconstruction filters.  Here are the results using the Poisson Reconstruction filter.  You can see where the filter attempted to guess how to fill the missing parts.

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=8716

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3

Re: Getting good scans

All the stuff in here is probably relevant to any laser scanner:

https://matterandform.net/blog/good-versus-bad-scans

As far as missing bits of scans go, it can obviously only scan the parts of the model that are visible to both the lasers and the camera at the same time, one of the M&F software's more useful features is an automated combine tool that recognizes the parts of two different scans of the same object which are the same, then combines them to fill in the parts that were missing. I don't know if FreeLSS has anything like that yet, but it could certainly use it if it doesn't.

The stuff it is creating out of thin air is probably due to shiny objects and reflections. Another bit of M&F advice is to dust any shiny objects with baby powder before scanning.

4

Re: Getting good scans

Couple of intresting notes:


I'm not sure the camera can be focused, I think it's a fixed focus device.  It appears its minimum focal distance is about 4-5ft., certainly not 10". 

This is something that Uriah needs to address, unless I just got the only weird one of the batch.

I did find a way around this (sort of), I put a pair of reading glasses with 2.5x magnification in front of the camera, and it brought things in better focus.  I think something closer to 3-3.5x would do the trick.  But it's certainly a kludge.  It really needs to be addressed properly.

The magnification still didn't fix the basic scanning problems, but it has improved the camera's ability to see finer details.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

5

Re: Getting good scans

need a Macro focus

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

6 (edited by slimstar2 2015-05-24 22:36:07)

Re: Getting good scans

pirvan,  if you could help me I would be greatly thankful.

I was getting decent scans until today .   I did the update and all went bad.   After recalibrating several times and pulling most of my hair out I realized ( I think ) that some of my settings might have changed. If you could check my settings against yours it might help .

My settings  then setup

camera mode 1.9 video
laser threshold 2
cam y  3.5
cam z  10.25
right laser x  4.95
right laser y  3.5
right laser z  10.25
left laser x  -4.95
left laser y  3.5
left laser z  10.25

I know I will have to tweak them for my scanner but at least it will give me a starting point.

Thanx  Bill D

SD3, RAMPS 1.4, Lawsy's carriages modified by me, 2 SSRs, E3D V6, 2 Power supplies, Independent monitoring of both power supplies (amps and volts) also extruder and bed temps, Blue Tooth connectivity, bearings in all axis & rotational points, Y axis direct drive.  Remotely controlled power box on / off . Gecko Tec build plate . Renamed FrankenDoodle

7

Re: Getting good scans

That looks like the default settings on everything except the laser threshold, which by default is either 6 or 8, but that's something you need to change depending on lighting conditions anyway.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
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AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
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8

Re: Getting good scans

Thanks   I guess it back to the drawing board.

SD3, RAMPS 1.4, Lawsy's carriages modified by me, 2 SSRs, E3D V6, 2 Power supplies, Independent monitoring of both power supplies (amps and volts) also extruder and bed temps, Blue Tooth connectivity, bearings in all axis & rotational points, Y axis direct drive.  Remotely controlled power box on / off . Gecko Tec build plate . Renamed FrankenDoodle

9

Re: Getting good scans

pirvan wrote:

Couple of intresting notes:


I'm not sure the camera can be focused, I think it's a fixed focus device.  It appears its minimum focal distance is about 4-5ft., certainly not 10". 

This is something that Uriah needs to address, unless I just got the only weird one of the batch.

I did find a way around this (sort of), I put a pair of reading glasses with 2.5x magnification in front of the camera, and it brought things in better focus.  I think something closer to 3-3.5x would do the trick.  But it's certainly a kludge.  It really needs to be addressed properly.

The magnification still didn't fix the basic scanning problems, but it has improved the camera's ability to see finer details.

Found this on the google plus community for the Atlas scanner and it works:

1. There is the brute force method shown in this YouTube video: https://youtu.be/u6VhRVH3Z6Y

2. There is a safer method described in this article: http://www.raspberrypi.org/learning/inf … worksheet/ that chips off the glue.

10 (edited by pirvan 2015-05-25 17:55:31)

Re: Getting good scans

FaanP wrote:

Found this on the google plus community for the Atlas scanner and it works:

1. There is the brute force method shown in this YouTube video: https://youtu.be/u6VhRVH3Z6Y
2. There is a safer method described in this article: http://www.raspberrypi.org/learning/inf … worksheet/ that chips off the glue.

Thanks for this.  I'll do the surgery in the next day or so.

Meanwhile, I'm really struggling with getting usable scans from this thing.  I have played around a lot with lighting, and the laser threshold, I've downloaded the instruction manual from the matterandform scanner which uses similar technology.

But unless  I scan something simple and basic like a box or a bottle, I get really weird artifacts, incomplete areas, distorted areas, and when I scan with both lasers, I get what appear two be to shells, the main one, and a larger one, sort of encompassing part of the main body.

Here are a couple of scans.  Notice the first one, and how it's pinched in the middle, as if it twisted itself around the center.  The one on the right is missing lots of areas, which I know are seen by the laser and the camera.

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=8724

Edit:
Another thing I'm noticing is that since I upgraded to v.1.5 of the FreeLSS software, it now takes a lot longer to do a scan, and seems to be primarily due to the fact that the scanner now takes 2 or more snapshots per step.  Whether it actually does 2 snapshots or just flashes the laser twice, I'm not sure, but it appears to do two or (sometimes) more laser flashes depending on something (not getting a good read maybe?).

Is this normal?

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11 (edited by slimstar2 2015-05-25 19:55:00)

Re: Getting good scans

pirvan,  You just described exactly what happened to me !     My scans were much better before I did the update much faster also . It seems that it will take up to 5 or 6 scans  ( turns on laser at least) . If it likes what it saw it will advance turntable 1 increment and start scanning again, if it didn't like it it just moves on and leaves a blank spot in the scan. Hopefully hairu will have a fix for this soon . That is why I asked to check my settings against yours yesterday . After the update it all went bad.

The 1st screenshot is after update  2nd is before update

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12

Re: Getting good scans

pirvan, were the objects that you scanned shiny? I only see a photo of one and that seems a bit shiny.

13

Re: Getting good scans

OK,  So I just finished refocusing the camera, and I now have a very nice, well focused image.  Now for a new test.

Here is a snapshot of the model as the camera sees it at 5Mpixels.

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=8728

Here is a side by side of the camera view both both lasers on, and the test shot (images were cropped and reduced from 5Mp)

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=8729

And here is the resulting scan PLY.  The scan was down in high resolution preset.  I used both lasers, and the laser threshold is set to 5.

On the left is the PointCloud only, where you can see the areas where the scan got doubled up  (like a larger shell around a smaller one.  The middle and right images are the mesh itself, and it looks like the software tried to connect the two (inner and outer) shells in places.  Then there's all the missing areas.

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=8730

What am I doing wrong?

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14

Re: Getting good scans

tonyno wrote:

pirvan, were the objects that you scanned shiny? I only see a photo of one and that seems a bit shiny.

MOst of these objects are small toys made of plastic or rubber.  Most of them are satin finish, but they might reflect in some places (usually the brighter colors).

If the scanner is this sensitive to reflections, what can I do to reduce it.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
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AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
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15

Re: Getting good scans

If you scan with a single laser, does the "shell" go away? That could be bad calibration with the two lasers not agreeing about the object position. The matterform has a calibration box that comes with it that has a black & white checkerboard on one face. The firmware "just knows" what the box looks like and still takes quite a lot of time to run its calibration routine, so I assume calibration is hard :-).

16 (edited by pirvan 2015-05-26 05:19:34)

Re: Getting good scans

Edit:  This assumption was wrong.  See post below.

Yes, if I scan with a single laser, there's no "shell".  Only one , but with loads of missing pieces.

I think I figured out why the shell occurs, and it has to do with the angle of incidence, basically perspective. 
Each laser see the object from a different angle.  The further out the model sticks out from the center of the turntable the, more pronounced the perspective.  The closer the the surface is the the center of the turntable (the point where the to beams converge, the less the perspective distortion, and the closer the 2shells are.  At the center of the turntable the two shells would merge.

So a cylindrical model would not show this problem, but add a couple of "arms" sticking straight out of it, and you instantly have a problem.  The software doesn't seem to account for this.

Unless I'm wrong, of course.  I just wish someone would enlighten me.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
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AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
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17

Re: Getting good scans

Well... scratch that last post.  I just did a couple of new scans, and what I said there about perspective is wrong.

I just did 2 scans of the same model.  One with the right laser only, and another one with the left laser.  I then loaded both PLY files into MeshLab, and the left laser scan is about 10% larger than the right laser scan.

I have no idea why that is, but here is a screenshot of the two meshes together.

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=8731

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18

Re: Getting good scans

Which video mode are you using?

Did you check your calibration?  I calibrate mine with a wood maker's square to ensure everything is square.

19

Re: Getting good scans

pirvan wrote:
tonyno wrote:

pirvan, were the objects that you scanned shiny? I only see a photo of one and that seems a bit shiny.

MOst of these objects are small toys made of plastic or rubber.  Most of them are satin finish, but they might reflect in some places (usually the brighter colors).

If the scanner is this sensitive to reflections, what can I do to reduce it.

Optical scanners don't work well with reflective surfaces. Giving them a coat of matte paint is the best way. I have also read about people using talcum powder.

20

Re: Getting good scans

FaanP wrote:

Which video mode are you using?

Did you check your calibration?  I calibrate mine with a wood maker's square to ensure everything is square.

I tried all the modes, including default, hi-res video and hi-res still.

For calibration I used the calibration thingy that Uriah made, and it's square.  Both beams converge in the middle of the turntable and appear as a single beam on the vertical surface of the calibration thingy.

However, things being out of square doesn't explain the discrepancy in size between the 2 lasers.

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21

Re: Getting good scans

tonyno wrote:
pirvan wrote:
tonyno wrote:

pirvan, were the objects that you scanned shiny? I only see a photo of one and that seems a bit shiny.

MOst of these objects are small toys made of plastic or rubber.  Most of them are satin finish, but they might reflect in some places (usually the brighter colors).

If the scanner is this sensitive to reflections, what can I do to reduce it.

Optical scanners don't work well with reflective surfaces. Giving them a coat of matte paint is the best way. I have also read about people using talcum powder.

Yeah, well... that's going to be a real problem.  I can't simply paint everything I want to scan.

I also tried the talcum powder and it's very hard if not impossible to apply it evenly, and it gets into the small nooks and crannies and fills them up, so you loose a ton of detail, then when you try to blow it away, or shake it off, the rest of the powder comes off.

Also, if you do all this, you loose the ability to capture the original color texture, so what's the point of having camera that captures in color.

NO, there's got to be a better way.  I'd like to know how those captures that were posted on the Kickstarter were done.  Has anyone been able to do anything that even remotely looks like that?

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
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22

Re: Getting good scans

You must remember that you are never going to get a perfect scan by:
1.  Doing one scan.  You must do multiple scans from multiple angles and then combine the scans in Meshlab or something.
2.  Do no post scan processing.

23

Re: Getting good scans

pirvan wrote:
FaanP wrote:

Which video mode are you using?

Did you check your calibration?  I calibrate mine with a wood maker's square to ensure everything is square.

I tried all the modes, including default, hi-res video and hi-res still.

For calibration I used the calibration thingy that Uriah made, and it's square.  Both beams converge in the middle of the turntable and appear as a single beam on the vertical surface of the calibration thingy.

However, things being out of square doesn't explain the discrepancy in size between the 2 lasers.

All I can suggest now is start measuring.  Make sure your distances in you setup is the actual distances on the your scanner.

There was previous reports of the one laser producing smaller scans than the other on the google groups but I never experienced it.

The guys that made their own scanners on the google group had various issues (including myself) but with proper calibration everything was sorted. 

Check everything.

24

Re: Getting good scans

I did measure everything, and also adjusted for the actual elevation of the camera and lasers.  Given that the software links some of the dimensions, it assumes that everything is symmetrical, and my measurement bear that, within 1 mm or so.

Calibrations done as per instructions are correct, and the 2 lasers converge into a single vertical beam at the center of the turntable.

Last night I did a scan at hi-res, and 3200 steps, which really improved the quality of the scan, however it took over 2 and 1/2 hours to complete the scan from 1 (left) laser only ! 

The problem with the single laser is that there were still many areas the laser couldn't see, that the right laser would have, but since the 2 lasers produce  different size scans, I can't simply blend them.

So I need to understand why this discrepancy exists.  I tried playing with the one setting that can be independently adjusted, the Left Laser X dimension, which I changed from -4.5" to -5.5".  And while I did see some small changes, they were mostly related to the angle of the scan and the perspective correction.  It didn't really fix the size of the resulting scan.

I know that some people had problems with this on Google+ groups, but I haven't seen any resolutions.  Besides, it appears the Google+ groups are pretty much dead, since Uriah stated he'll concentrate his support efforts on this forum.

I'd really like to get to the bottom of this problem.  At this stage, I'm pretty sure it's software related.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
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AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

25

Re: Getting good scans

Another noteworthy observation, is the inability of the scanner to properly see inside concave areas, when these areas are near the center of the turntable. 

For example, take the little baby dinosaur toy I posted some pictures of, with its outstretched arms. 

The inside of the arms are the equivalent of a concave surface.  If the model is placed in the middle of the turntable, neither lasers will be able to see those surfaces (inside of it's arms or legs). 

However, the farther back I move the model, the more the lasers can "see" inside.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.