Topic: An other design E3D V6 for da vinci
First I tried the designs in first topic ww.soliforum.com/topic/7614/e3d-on-da-vinci/
but i did not work for my, So i made an other design:
ww.thingiverse.com/thing:608560
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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → XYZ Printing DaVinci → An other design E3D V6 for da vinci
First I tried the designs in first topic ww.soliforum.com/topic/7614/e3d-on-da-vinci/
but i did not work for my, So i made an other design:
ww.thingiverse.com/thing:608560
Very good design it looks to fix a lot of the flaws in the previous version.
The only thing that would really concern me is the distance the filament has to travel where it doesn't have any guide. It looks like it travels quite a distance from where it exits the tube to where it engages the gear for the extruder. If your filament isn't perfectly straight, I could see this being quite a problem. Even more so for flexible filaments.
I like the design, and I might use it, not sure. I still like the one posted over on the Voltivo forums that required a bowden extruder, but would rather modify that design to make it non-bowden.
looks like the design i was using before i swapped it out for a bowden setup. I liked it but there was too much allowance for flex after the stepper is moved up on the carriage.... My print quality is much better since i have gone to my bowden setup.
Also i noticed you dont have any PTFE tubing running into the e3d. You should reread the manual that tubing is not optional even if you are not running a bowden setup... You should really add some before you wreck the hotend.
Also i noticed you dont have any PTFE tubing running into the e3d. You should reread the manual that tubing is not optional even if you are not running a bowden setup... You should really add some before you wreck the hotend.
I used Bowden/PTFE tubing, but cut it of just above heatsink.
I printed the parts and have a snug fit side to side but quite a lot of play (1-mm) front to back between the two pieces. Is this by design and the fan assembly tightens everything down or is my printing off somehow? I've attached a photo showing the amount of space.
I printed the parts and have a snug fit side to side but quite a lot of play (1-mm) front to back between the two pieces. Is this by design and the fan assembly tightens everything down or is my printing off somehow?
For the design:
first I made the parts that the head fits.
I added 0,5 mm to each part so I did not have to dremmel it. (I gues if your printer/abs is more accurate so you do not need it)
then I moved the screw-holes so the filement is exact above the head.
I say do a "full build" on this. It seems like a "simpler" solution to the E3D retrofit...
IMHO
I could see this being quite a problem. Even more so for flexible filaments.
I made a second version for flexible filaments
ww.thingiverse.com/thing:680959
I say do a "full build" on this. It seems like a "simpler" solution to the E3D retrofit...
IMHO
I am getting ready soon to install a E3D
This seems like an easy upgrade for now as a full build requires a different filament feed or a airtripper setup.
Is there a full build out there that uses the stock feed setup?
I've been working on a bowden setup that uses all the stock parts. The motor and the stock extruder will be mounted on the frame. This setup should be good for those who want to stay on the stock firmware and it also allows you to revert back to the stock setup. I should have everything finalized within the next day or so and will start testing it out before releasing the design.
POPOTROPOPIC3 wrote:I say do a "full build" on this. It seems like a "simpler" solution to the E3D retrofit...
IMHO
I am getting ready soon to install a E3D
This seems like an easy upgrade for now as a full build requires a different filament feed or a airtripper setup.
Is there a full build out there that uses the stock feed setup?
Looks good so far
I would be most interested in the filament drive if it uses the stock hardware.
Let me know when you have them ready.
Thanks
I've been working on a bowden setup that uses all the stock parts. The motor and the stock extruder will be mounted on the frame. This setup should be good for those who want to stay on the stock firmware and it also allows you to revert back to the stock setup. I should have everything finalized within the next day or so and will start testing it out before releasing the design.
leenanj wrote:POPOTROPOPIC3 wrote:I say do a "full build" on this. It seems like a "simpler" solution to the E3D retrofit...
IMHO
I am getting ready soon to install a E3D
This seems like an easy upgrade for now as a full build requires a different filament feed or a airtripper setup.
Is there a full build out there that uses the stock feed setup?
I've been working on a bowden setup that uses all the stock parts. The motor and the stock extruder will be mounted on the frame. This setup should be good for those who want to stay on the stock firmware and it also allows you to revert back to the stock setup. I should have everything finalized within the next day or so and will start testing it out before releasing the design.
Very interested in this, please keep us updated with your progress.
I've been working on a bowden setup that uses all the stock parts. The motor and the stock extruder will be mounted on the frame. This setup should be good for those who want to stay on the stock firmware and it also allows you to revert back to the stock setup. I should have everything finalized within the next day or so and will start testing it out before releasing the design.
Why is your heater cartridge half way in on the pics?
The cartridge is flush with the other side of the heat block, so it sticks out on the other side. I haven't finalized the design yet, so things are subject to change/move.
evanalmighty wrote:I've been working on a bowden setup that uses all the stock parts. The motor and the stock extruder will be mounted on the frame. This setup should be good for those who want to stay on the stock firmware and it also allows you to revert back to the stock setup. I should have everything finalized within the next day or so and will start testing it out before releasing the design.
Why is your heater cartridge half way in on the pics?
It looks nice. Did you noticed a printing improvement in any way ?
Thanks for sharing your work.
It looks nice. Did you noticed a printing improvement in any way ?
Thanks for sharing your work.
No, but: It prints PLA, Ninjaflex and the head does not get clogged.
So how much vertical height to you lose on the print area with a direct drive setup? And how/where do you make the adjustment in the firmware?
So how much vertical height to you lose on the print area with a direct drive setup? And how/where do you make the adjustment in the firmware?
Are you running stock firmware or Repetier firmware? If stock there is no way to access the value you would need which is your z offset. If stock you would have to add it to your start gcode to create an offset equal to the new space needed by the extruder plus the previous amount most likely. If in Repetier firmware there is a z offset in the EEPROM config file that you access in Repetier host.
So how much vertical height to you lose on the print area with a direct drive setup? And how/where do you make the adjustment in the firmware?
In this design the head is raised by 19,4 mm. The new holes can be made with help of the drill-mal.stl
montressor wrote:So how much vertical height to you lose on the print area with a direct drive setup? And how/where do you make the adjustment in the firmware?
In this design the head is raised by 19,4 mm. The new holes can be made with help of the drill-mal.stl
I think he meant how much space from the nozzle to the bed do you loose. In other words the distance from the nozzle to the lowest point the bed can travel will be less than it was with the original. I guess the correct word from your view is how much lower is the nozzle on this design.
In other words the distance from the nozzle to the lowest point the bed can travel will be less than it was with the original.
No the distance is the same. the nozzle has the same hight as the original. I did not changed the firmware. (i tray to make photo later)
No the distance is the same. the nozzle has the same hight as the original. I did not changed the firmware. (i tray to make photo later)
Interesting, seemed like you'd lose some vertical height with this. Going to try and adapt this to a Duo.
One other question: in the picture on thingiverse (http://bit.ly/1zlocv5) there appears to be an upper filament guide that doesn't seem to appear in either of the build docs you referenced. Is that a separate piece? As I'm primarily interested in printing flexible filaments, I'd like to grab and print this as well.
montressor wrote:So how much vertical height to you lose on the print area with a direct drive setup? And how/where do you make the adjustment in the firmware?
Are you running stock firmware or Repetier firmware? If stock there is no way to access the value you would need which is your z offset. If stock you would have to add it to your start gcode to create an offset equal to the new space needed by the extruder plus the previous amount most likely. If in Repetier firmware there is a z offset in the EEPROM config file that you access in Repetier host.
Carl where is this z offset located, from the lcd panel ?, can't find it.
If you install a nozzle that is different height than original can this compensate?
khing wrote:No the distance is the same. the nozzle has the same hight as the original. I did not changed the firmware. (i tray to make photo later)
Interesting, seemed like you'd lose some vertical height with this. Going to try and adapt this to a Duo.
One other question: in the picture on thingiverse (http://bit.ly/1zlocv5) there appears to be an upper filament guide that doesn't seem to appear in either of the build docs you referenced. Is that a separate piece? As I'm primarily interested in printing flexible filaments, I'd like to grab and print this as well.
I tried to tell the designer this on thingiverse, but that uper filament guide has 0 impact on printing flexible filaments... The crucail area is after the filament LEAVES the extruder gear because the axial load on the filament at that point will induce bucking. To correct for this you will have to bring your PTFE tube right up next to the extruder gear and cut it in a v shape. This will help to constrain the filament as it enters the hot end and allow you to print faster.
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