SILICONE HEAT BED SPECIFICALLY FOR SOLIDOODLE 3!!! (Page 2 of 2)

So just for fun I installed the new heat pad and ran some comparisons.
The first thing I did was installed a new 340 watt PSU to ensure stable results.  The printer sides were enclosed but the top was open.  I also used the stock thermistor and am saving the one impregnated into the heater for when the stock one fails.  This was mostly to ensure similar readings across both heaters.
Then I timed the stock heater and came up with this...

Stock Bed Heater took 10 minutes to go from 22 degrees - 105 degrees (no screen shot)

Then the new heater...
New Bed Heater took 5 minutes to go from 22 degrees - 105 degrees

I ran this test 3 times and came very close to the same numbers each time. So yes, I rounded off but only by a few seconds either way.
Then just for the fun of it I ran this same test on my 500 watt AC bed heater.

That's right 20 degrees - 108 degrees in 51 seconds!!!
Just to be fair I would like to point out that in such a short time there is no way that the heat is soaked through to the top.  So I figure for all practical purposes the shortest heat up time required by any bed heater to fall into that 5 minute zone.
A few of things to note if buying this heater.
1.  The wires are perfect in length but have no ends on them so be prepared to crimp or solder.
2.  The holes were a ways off for the leveling screws.  This was easily fixed by trimming some rubber away just be careful
     that you don't cut into the conductors of the heater.
3.  No documentation comes with this heater in regards to the thermistor type or the rated wattage. 
     (maybe it's here on the forum and I missed it)  It would be nice if even on the receipt there was this information for 
     future reference.   

At this point I would give this heater two thumbs up for being as advertised with a couple of words of caution.

A more robust power supply is recommended (I did do some initial testing with the stock PSU) and it is a must if you are running an E3D with this bed heater.

I find that having the fiberglass under the heater helps to stabilize the temps.  I was fortunate to have the fiberglass come off with the adhesive backing in tact but wouldn't expect that to be the norm.  It isn't needed but if you wish to reuse it plan on some way of adhering it to the new heat pad.

I would like to say thank you for the extremely fast delivery of this unit.  And don't worry I have no intentions of throwing away my 500 watt heater so this should last a long time.

@wardjr : how do you put the power in the bed ? thru your control card (what card ? ) ? or thru a relay controlled by the card ?

Thanks for the positive review Wardjr. Yeah, no idea on the thermistor type, the manufacturer didnt provide any documentation for me to pass along... I thought of putting the correct connectors for the printrboards but I figured its best to do some modifications then to have it draw the power straight through the board.

Allright, I can now confirm that the thermistor is a type 80.

The temperatur info is very accurate, I checked it with a TC that I had on my multimeter.

Thanks adrian for this info

Yep, the type 80 for QU BD in marlin firmware.

Now it shows real temperature, and the bed is actually heating faster than what i wrote before. from room temp to 90 in about 3 to 4 min. And then to 105 in another 3 - 4 min.

I have bought one of these bed heaters and have everything hooked up.
But the SSR 60 DD i bought gets extremely hot, It's also mounted it to back of the case.
Do i have the right SSR? 
I have also connected the heat pad straight to the  360 watt power supply
and it heats up a lot faster. so i am thinking that i have the wrong SSR.
any one have a recommendation

Yes it is a 60 A. After 30 min. of use last night I have noticed that the plastic on the SSR has started to melt, That has me a little worried. I thought by mounting the SSR to the back of the case would dissipate some of the heat.
Do i need to run a heat sink and fan?
i have not went into the firmware and calibrated it yet, I just wanted to make sure I am good with the SSR before i calibrate.

Is this the one your using?
http://www.amazon.com/SSR-60DD-Covered- … B00DUYYS1U
If so it's not the correct one.
Tell me about your setup and I will help you choose the appropriate SSR.
Things to know
1. Rated Wattage of your heater DC or AC
2. If DC rated output of your PSU

This isn't the right place for this discussion so I sent you an email

I just bought one of these for my SD3 Wow  what a difference  . Heats to 105 C  in 4 minutes  and 10 seconds . much better than  the 15 minutes it used to take  the bed temps are much more even across the whole bed . I use a separate power supply for the heaters set to 14.5 volts and capable of providing 30 amps . I also use an independent monitor that I built to double check temps ,voltages and amp draws. My original heater  pulled 2.9 amps the new one pulls 7.5 amps . for $21.00 + $4.99 shipping ,this was a great upgrade . The link to my monitor is  https://tinkercad.com/things/g1vFJBOX838  from there you can find it on Thingiverse also , just search solidoodle  or monitor

Ok I now have a reasonable means of offering international shipping. I got a quote for shipping to Australia of $5.40. I also put a 20% discount into the international shipping price just in case it is a little high. I hope this helps someone if they are still interested in upgrading. My price is very comparable to the Qu-Bd bed as well.

Also its now over 300w and its crazy powerful, so please get a relay.

Link to eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Solidoodle- … 2c8aedfb39

Thanks