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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Buy/Sell/Trade → SILICONE HEAT BED SPECIFICALLY FOR SOLIDOODLE 3!!!
I found a supplier of silicone heat pads very similar to the ones Qu-Bd offers and requested custom pads. Heres what came. They work amazing although the holes for the screws are slightly off. It heats up slightly faster than a Qu-Bd and is much much easier to mount to the existing bed. Its 200w and reaches a 100c in a couple of minutes. Let me know what you guys think.
eBay link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/191132414562?ss … 1555.l2649
I did purchase this bed, and it comes as advertised, with a great service, and fast shipping.
Didn't mounted yet, but the quality looks good for me !
Very good and cheap upgrade for the old crapy SD3 resistor heater !
I did purchase this bed, and it comes as advertised, with a great service, and fast shipping.
Didn't mounted yet, but the quality looks good for me !
Very good and cheap upgrade for the old crapy SD3 resistor heater !
I would be interested in heat up times. Keep us posted.
I just purchased one off of your ebay link.
Same day shipping, i can't wait till it get here.
Thank again for such a great deal.
Update:
Installed, everything work great, heat up very fast. thank you again.
hmmm pad : 23$ ... shipping 21$ + 5$ tax for canada... i pass...
hmmm pad : 23$ ... shipping 21$ + 5$ tax for canada... i pass...
$43 to Australia. I asked in the other thread if he wanted to look into sorting that out so it could be included in my next Heated Bed shootout with the thermal images etc.. but never got a response.
*shrug*
ysb wrote:hmmm pad : 23$ ... shipping 21$ + 5$ tax for canada... i pass...
$43 to Australia. I asked in the other thread if he wanted to look into sorting that out so it could be included in my next Heated Bed shootout with the thermal images etc.. but never got a response.
*shrug*
I'd like to get mine in your next shoot out 
ysb wrote:hmmm pad : 23$ ... shipping 21$ + 5$ tax for canada... i pass...
$43 to Australia. I asked in the other thread if he wanted to look into sorting that out so it could be included in my next Heated Bed shootout with the thermal images etc.. but never got a response.
*shrug*
I just ordered two I'll let you know if they are worthy of one of your shootouts.
Ha ha Im glad you finally bought one, two even wardjr!! I could tell you were leaning towards it. But please dont compare them to you 500w AC one, yikes! Thanks for the purchase though, you should have it real quick 
I was able to print the 200mm diagonal rods for a Rostock on my upgraded bed. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17917 With the stock heating pad I wouldve never dreamed of being able to print near the edges.
Ha ha Im glad you finally bought one, two even wardjr!! I could tell you were leaning towards it. But please dont compare them to you 500w AC one, yikes! Thanks for the purchase though, you should have it real quick
I was able to print the 200mm diagonal rods for a Rostock on my upgraded bed. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17917 With the stock heating pad I wouldve never dreamed of being able to print near the edges.
No plans to compare that just wouldn't be fair. It would be interesting to get the thermal images for it from Adrian though. Something like that only costs $11 to send to him so you should consider making an exception and get one sent to Australia. The support he offers to the community is invaluable. It might also help you sell more in the long run. If he likes it he will most definitely recommend it to other users. Just look at my signature, every upgrade i have made would not have happened if it weren't for Adrain's advice, support or recommendation. I will provide feedback when I get one installed
Yeah Id really like to but I cant get a quote to ship this thing for less than $22...
Yeah Id really like to but I cant get a quote to ship this thing for less than $22...
I just sent him a Printer Board for $11 bucks with USPS. I am certain a heat pad would fit in that same box and would weigh about the same.
Ok guys, I got it hooked up, and with a 350 W ATX power supply, this baby is pulling 12 Amps, and heat to 90 °C in about 10 min.
My setup is just the heat pad on the bottom of the aluminium plate and a mirror on top, with no insulation on bottom, so I'm guessing it could be faster than that if I put some insulation...
The really cool thing, it is a straight forward install. I just had to relay the power, and bring another line from the power supply for it. But the heat pad does stick on the bottom of the bed directly, no dimensions issues, except the holes alittle off, but you can see the tracks and cut the silicon with a hobby knife to make them match. there's a lot of meat around the holes to do so.
I had to remove all the old glue, and I did sand the aluminium plate so surface will be as flat as possible with a 600 Grit.
The cable is good quality, and the thermistor looks like giving reliable information.
I attach a picture of my electrical install, very basic, but works great.
PS, i forgot to say, that my printer is totaly enclosed in a 1/2 inch plywood enclosure. That help the heat time a lot !
My old heat pad original solidoodle was getting to 90 °c in about 40 min. So for me it's a huge improvement.
Oh, and I have a thermal camera (industrial use at work, don't worry, I'm not a billionaire yet...), I'll shoot it for you guys.
Awesome to hear! Thats the write up I should have done... but thanks. I was worried the cable length would be too short. Nice clean setup you got there too. I noticed, are those 4 pin molex cables?? How do you get the 12v in there?
I just used 2 black wires for ground, and combined the yellow and red for 12.
Everything is cut and modified in the ATX power supply.
I figured I will use the molex, since I cut everything from the power supply, and had a lot of left overs !!
And I needed to have something to quick disconnect the printer in my enclosure, I had the choice between a hobby RC grade battery plug, or that...
Ok guys, I got it hooked up, and with a 350 W ATX power supply, this baby is pulling 12 Amps, and heat to 90 °C in about 10 min.
My setup is just the heat pad on the bottom of the aluminium plate and a mirror on top, with no insulation on bottom, so I'm guessing it could be faster than that if I put some insulation...
The really cool thing, it is a straight forward install. I just had to relay the power, and bring another line from the power supply for it. But the heat pad does stick on the bottom of the bed directly, no dimensions issues, except the holes alittle off, but you can see the tracks and cut the silicon with a hobby knife to make them match. there's a lot of meat around the holes to do so.
I had to remove all the old glue, and I did sand the aluminium plate so surface will be as flat as possible with a 600 Grit.
The cable is good quality, and the thermistor looks like giving reliable information.
I attach a picture of my electrical install, very basic, but works great.
PS, i forgot to say, that my printer is totaly enclosed in a 1/2 inch plywood enclosure. That help the heat time a lot !
My old heat pad original solidoodle was getting to 90 °c in about 40 min. So for me it's a huge improvement.
When you get tired of listening to that relay click (and you will). Solid State Relays are cheap and much more reliable not to mention silent nice install and thanks for the write up.
Yeah, I have read that on that forum,I wanted to get one, but I wanted to install this same day and only thing available local was this in a auto zone.
I'll probably listen to your advice, and get one for later.
The printer being in the enclosure, I don't ear the clic that much for now...
Here is the heating curb.
Just wanted to add, that a 350 W Atx might be running at its limits, as 350W is for all voltages combined, and is a peak power.
When the heat bed pops on, the ATX trips when it's cold. I have to reset it 1 or 2 times, then it's goood for the day, but I will upgrade to a 400 or 450 certainly.
Also, my power supply is a salvage from a very old computer, it might not help...
Be wary of the relay also because they fail after x cycles, as well as the short duty cycle at temp can mean that they can weld shut/open. The SSR avoids that by not using contacts to switch
Its not so bad on stock firmware with Bang-Bang style switching.. but to maintain a more stable tempreature, you really want to enable PID and retune it (if you haven't ) at which point it will kill a relay in a (relatively) short time frame.
Ha ha Im glad you finally bought one, two even wardjr!! I could tell you were leaning towards it. But please dont compare them to you 500w AC one, yikes! Thanks for the purchase though, you should have it real quick
I was able to print the 200mm diagonal rods for a Rostock on my upgraded bed. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17917 With the stock heating pad I wouldve never dreamed of being able to print near the edges.
Just wanted to let you know I just received my bed heaters. I couldn't say when I'll get a chance to try them out but I'll be sure to let you know. I didn't realize you were right in my back yard. Thanks for the speedy delivery.
Great. Ha ha I know! I couldve just dropped them off! Im waiting for your review.
...heat to 90 °C in about 10 min.
Hmmm my stock SD3 bed heats to 90 in not much more than 10 min. Is mine atypical? My power supply is updated, but the bed heated as quickly with the stock supply. I'm hoping to put an end to the shedding fiberglass problem, might just wrap with Kapton.
Were the PID settings adjusted for the silicone bed?
Also, how far off were the mounting holes? I wouldn't be surprised by those being inconsistent coming from SD to start with.
Ok, I have an answer for this heating time : the thermistor looks off a little bit. It will show 90 °C when the bed is in fact at 105 °C on top of the glass.
I just shot it with my thermal camera. heat repartition is great though.
I'll share the picture tonight.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Buy/Sell/Trade → SILICONE HEAT BED SPECIFICALLY FOR SOLIDOODLE 3!!!
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