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Tell us if this works out. We are always happy to publicize your achievements on the Solidoodle official website.
Will do, thanks.
This is my latest print, 2mm pitch M12 screw utilizing a buttress thread to accommodate 3-D printing and because the force will be in one direction only. You may notice the base has been treated in an acetone bath (something I've been experimenting with). I printed a nut with mating threads but there wasn't enough slop for them to mate properly. More to come.
I've printed several mating parts other than screws and I am completely confident that I will be able to make this work as well.
This is my latest print, 2mm pitch M12 screw utilizing a buttress thread to accommodate 3-D printing and because the force will be in one direction only. You may notice the base has been treated in an acetone bath (something I've been experimenting with). I printed a nut with mating threads but there wasn't enough slop for them to mate properly. More to come.
I've printed several mating parts other than screws and I am completely confident that I will be able to make this work as well.
Absolutely beautiful!
Thank you. I used 20% infill, which I will continue to do until I've dialed in the tolerance a bit more.
Thank you. I used 20% infill, which I will continue to do until I've dialed in the tolerance a bit more.
For faster printing?
For an average item I find that 10% hex infill is very strong. I have an 'engineering' preset in Slic3r too which is set at 50%, which is damn near solid and bullet proof.
Trouble is really skinny parts don't benefit too much from this.
Jon wrote:Thank you. I used 20% infill, which I will continue to do until I've dialed in the tolerance a bit more.
For faster printing?
Speed of print and amount of filament used. Given that I've gone through one spool in 21 days, I think it's a good idea to minimize filament used until the design is finalized. To be be honest, I should probably go to 10% infill for prototypes.
On another note, given the waste I'm generating over time, I've been trying to create ABS glue in each color by combining plastic and acetone in glass jars. I'm curious if there is a market for this sort of thing among enthusiasts. It's not something I want to make any real profit on, I just don't want to see this plastic go to waste.
For an average item I find that 10% hex infill is very strong. I have an 'engineering' preset in Slic3r too which is set at 50%, which is damn near solid and bullet proof.
Trouble is really skinny parts don't benefit too much from this.
Thanks for the input, I'm trying parts with hex fill at 10%.
solidoodlesupport wrote:Jon wrote:Thank you. I used 20% infill, which I will continue to do until I've dialed in the tolerance a bit more.
For faster printing?
Speed of print and amount of filament used. Given that I've gone through one spool in 21 days, I think it's a good idea to minimize filament used until the design is finalized. To be be honest, I should probably go to 10% infill for prototypes.
On another note, given the waste I'm generating over time, I've been trying to create ABS glue in each color by combining plastic and acetone in glass jars. I'm curious if there is a market for this sort of thing among enthusiasts. It's not something I want to make any real profit on, I just don't want to see this plastic go to waste.
I think that's a record!
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