Topic: Automatic Print Ejection
Randomly stumbled onto this:
The RepRap pushes the print off the glass table with a wall that has been attached to the print head.
2 2013-08-04 16:26:59 (edited by DePartedPrinter 2013-08-04 16:27:11)
Re: Automatic Print Ejection
Looks like E3D fan ducts. Must be Sanjay in the video?
SD2 with E3D, SD Press, Form 1+
Filastruder
NYLON (taulman): http://www.soliforum.com/topic/466/nylon/
Filastruder
NYLON (taulman): http://www.soliforum.com/topic/466/nylon/
Re: Automatic Print Ejection
Yep, that's me in the video! Printing obscene amounts of these, I haven't counted, but so far I've printed 5kgs of them with minimal human intervention. I just have a bigger box in front of the printer now. 
If you're interested about how it works/how to do this then look for part 2 in my channel which has the methods and tech details.
I Design/Sell the E3D all-metal hotends. My company is called e3d-online - you can buy at www.e3d-online.com
Re: Automatic Print Ejection
That is brilliant sanjay. I could not do that on my printer. when hot the parts stick so much you could break the glass trying to get them off.
Re: Automatic Print Ejection
nlancaster
It's all about choosing the bed material very particularly.
PLA and glass works easily, you print on hot glass, turn the bed off, then the part comes loose all by itself due to contraction from cooling. Your ram just sweeps it off the bed.
You can do the same with ABS on hairspary/glass, it doesn't stick amazingly but it works for medium/small object. You can then just do the same cool and contract to detach. However in my case I tune the first layer height to within 25microns or so, this means I can get the part to JUST stick enough, but not stuck so hard the printer can't ram it off without a cooling cycle. This greatly increases print-cycle-speed as getting up to 115C takes a long time.
I Design/Sell the E3D all-metal hotends. My company is called e3d-online - you can buy at www.e3d-online.com
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Re: Automatic Print Ejection
Clever. How about a flying wedge or snow shovel design that would slide along the bed, contact the part at zero level and "slice" it off, rather than a straight pushing motion? Especially if you designed in a small matching 1MM slot into your part along zero level that the shovel would enter then pry the part up and over, breaking the adhesion. Some of my parts, with hair spray, really stick.
Just random neurons. Again, I think it is a clever idea, Sanjay. Thanks for posting.
Robox printer, HICTOP (Prusa i3 variant) Model 3DP17 printer, ELEK 2.5W laser engraver, AutoDesk 123D Design, Windows 10