Topic: Never call her 'babe' !
She has a 'strong and heavy' argument against that name..
no support / no raft needed..
a very easy print if you don't try to beat a speed record..
have fun
http://www.makershop.co/shop/fantasygraph/item/never
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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → STL Sharing & Print Showoff → Never call her 'babe' !
She has a 'strong and heavy' argument against that name..
no support / no raft needed..
a very easy print if you don't try to beat a speed record..
have fun
http://www.makershop.co/shop/fantasygraph/item/never
Nice
Translucent PLA @ .25.
LOL I gather your single.
Not at all.. my wife is my first judge when i launch a new model
@ldymox : nice print .. any problem with the 0.25mm layer? I think i optimized her for 0.2
Seems just fine to me. Thanks for the model.
I seem to get a bit of dropping on some overhangs but that maybe because it is PLA, plus it was a bit warm in here tonight.
You seem to get such nice overhangs. I usually get some droop
Ysb may use a cooling fan on the extrusion. This is especially helpful when printing with pla. If you look around, you can find some fan mounts for the Solidoodle's that you can print. Most take a 40mm fan that is common for about $5. It will cool the filament as it extrudes and helps with the droop.
It depends on how you want to control it. You could run it off your 12 volt connection with a switch wired n line to manually switch on and off. I have a separate fan controller for a pc hooked to a separate power supply that I use. It has its own thermistors and I can program it to start and stop based on temperature. This method did not require any soldering and did not interfere with the existing system. It only required a cheap ($10) additional power supply. Nice print btw.
Hmmm I have to think about this one (and do research) but I know there are threads about it
Most of the threads are for a Goode controlled fan. Those are nice but eve a basic setup for someone that does not want to solder will help. It depends on your level of expertise. I haven't had the heart to solder on mine yet. I am trying to keep it as original as possible and add the features I need so that they are easy to remove if they fail.
i also printed mine with no fan... the 0.2mm layer help because steps between layers are less important and help a lot for overhang..
and the speed is important too..
for example on my picture, the left one was printed with slic3r in 6 hours, and the right one with kisslicer in 2 hours..
if you look closely, you can see than the surface of the right one is less perfect than the other..
Do you ever do smaller figurines of the size used for roleplaying game grids? I hope to someday print up some of those, but I doubt I have the talent necessary to make them look like people, and clearly, you do (though I realize there are challenges in doing it smaller).
YSB, do you do all the modeling+rigging+posing from scratch in a 3d app, or are you using something like poser to position the model and composite it in a 3d modeling app? just curious, because you poses always look good, and i have trouble when i try to rig and pose stuff in blender. guess i just need to keep practicing! lol
YSB, do you do all the modeling+rigging+posing from scratch in a 3d app, or are you using something like poser to position the model and composite it in a 3d modeling app? just curious, because you poses always look good, and i have trouble when i try to rig and pose stuff in blender. guess i just need to keep practicing! lol
Since his on holidays and perhaps intermittent - yes, he has previously said prefers Poser Pro and also uses Hexagon, but doesn't use DaZ models due to licence restrictions on the distribution of the resultant STL.
I'm sure ysb will respond when he pops back in
I've used DaZ a few times. It is an easy program to use but I found the models do not slice clean into an STL file. Even using netFabb and other cleaning tools, the models do not print well. My latest creation was nice but the head did not print at all. Be aware that models converted from that program may not produce the expected results.
Hi all...
I don't like to re invent the whell.. my goal is not to design a 3d model. my goal is to design a Working 3d printing model... it's not exactly the same... i can take some liberty with the model [ uv map, shader, polygon optimisation for rigging.... in the trash]
So, for that, and for all my creation with character, i use poser pro to make the base pose. In the opposite of a lot of digital painter, i'm not ashamed of it. for this goal, poser pro is the best software. When i'm ok with the 'scene', i save it as a .obj model and then, i do all the heavy modifications in a 3d modeler software [zbrush,hexagon, blender, meshmixer... ].. then i use software like netfabb or meshlabs to make it '3d printable' [ retopology, thickness of part, normal direction and so on..]
A lot of people has discovered that it's not an easy task to tranform a poser/daz3d model into a 3d printable.
My toolchain and method is now well tuned and i will keep my little 'secrets' for Me... sorry ...perhaps later, i will write a full tutorial ..
Dont't forget that you can ask me for any specific model for a donation of 25$ or more
I will be back in 2 weeks.. now i return to my chair to cook under the sun B-)
i add just a link to a recent open source UK printer on kickstarter that use this model on their promo (but they didn't made any donation... :-/ ... )
http://www.3ders.org/articles/20131226- … arter.html
i add just a link to a recent open source UK printer on kickstarter that use this model on their promo (but they didn't made any donation... :-/ ... )
Perhaps we should add them to the wall of shame...
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → STL Sharing & Print Showoff → Never call her 'babe' !
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