New printer - need help... (Page 2 of 2)

As others have iterated. No two printers are the same. using familiar setting for a printer you know has some merit. but you must understand the differences and change the settings as appropriate.
as stated the layer height/magic number will be different as it is dependent on the lead screw. and the retraction an important setting will be a bit different as the sd is a direct drive and the Ender 3 is a bowden set up so you will need more retraction like 3.5 mm.

The other thing to keep in mind some settings are interactive so you may need to go back and fine tune or recalibrate.

Do a pid tune that may also be affecting your extrusion as the real cube is likely extruding faster than the manual calibration.

Take a breath go through your steps in a logical order .
you have a lot of experience in your corner.

I just lost a rather long post too...  See if I can remember it all.

Started back on page 1 again!  Measured quite a bit of white PLA - 1.72.  Changed nozzle, used one of theirs.  Used a piece of stiff wire to check the nozzle.  Forgot the size, but the next size at Ace Hardware won't fit.  Unscrewed the Bowden connector at the extruder - all's clear.  Heated it up and tried Ward's test.  I couldn't reasonably hold the  filament back.  Had left 6-8 inches of purple PLA in the Bowden tube, so I extruded some 4-500MM to clear the purple and get the white going.  The extruder was 6-8 inches off the deck, so all that I extruded was free air.  It all measured .48 - .50.  Life is looking better!  Set all the parameters to the calibration doc and tried a test print.  Ha, joke.  Same problems...
200C  1.72  1.00  wall = .32  very stringy
195C     "        "      "       .31  still stringy
Reset the extruder distance.  Creality says 1 sheet A4 paper thickness.  That = 0.09mm.  Really don't think you are gonna get a good .30mm first layer, besides they are printing of that soft stuff, I"m back on glass.  Set it to my 'calling card' height of .28,  releveled, and tried a print.  Not much better.
195C  1.72  1.00  wall = .37 
If I follow thru and set the multiplier, it's ~1.29xxx.  I've never had a multiplier over 1.0.  The original white PLA setting was 1.73/.06.  Being there is only bout half a roll left, I must have gotten some acceptable prints with the old setting. 
One thing that may have something - I always have the skirt set to 2, old habit from SD, just to get the filament going.  It goes thru the motions, but no skirt and no filament til about 25% thru the 1st layer. 
Tomorrow, I'll go thru the wiring to make sure it's all correctly plugged in.  Don't really know where to go from here.  Maybe I'll give this thing to the 7 and 9 year old kids across the street and go get something else - bet ya they could fix it. 
My offer still stands, I will pay someone for a viable copy of Marlin that will run a 32 bit board in the old SD.

Thanx for the help - still need more..........

Quick thought, slow down retraction speed.  On a Bowden setup, too fast can cause slippage.

ok... do not leave all of those settings at zero.. specify the extrusion width - on ALL of them.

and get rid of that 15% overlap setting.. if things are done right, you do not need it. Mine is set to zero and I have no issues at all.

as for the multiplier - that should ALWAYS be YOUR calculated numbers, not mine.
And to be perfectly honest.. multiplier should 'typically' be in the 0.9 to 1 range.. 0.55 is REALLY low - suggests massive over-extrusion to me.
over 1 is not common either.. i have one filament that is in the high 0.8 range.. but it is only the one..

Same print direct from SD card.  The last few layers are all over the place and the wall is down to 0.28.......................

and thank you for pointing out a flaw in the writeup - I will be correcting it (re: the different extrusion widths not being set correctly)

The test model is again the same one I have used for every spool of filament I have calibrated over 7 years.  It is a 4-sided hollow box, no top or bottom 25mm square, 10 mm tall.  Wall thickness controlled by the extrusion.  I was gonna enclose a copy, but it's on the other machine that is tied up rite now trying to salvage somebodies '...oops, formatted drive C.' hard drive.  I know you're probably getting tired of hearing - I did this for 7 years, I did that for 7 years....I am a lazy believer in that if it aint broke....  I know the settings for the SD were at least 'good' cuz I made a fair amount of $$ with the prints over the time. 
Now, Carl... how do I find these Ender groups?  My son is the FB user.  I dabble around some, but really have little or no idea how to get what I want off of FB.  I asked Tin Falcon for a copy of his working Ender 3Pro settings, but haven't heard yet.  Really don't care what software I have to use, I'll learn it!
I just D/L a new copy of RH for the IMac. My old working copy evidently was no good since Mac went to 'only' 64 bit software, in fact my old working copy and all of it's data is gone as are quite a few other programs I had that aren't compatible with the latest 'forced upon you' upgrade.  So I have a clean, untouched copy of RH I will putz with tomorrow, I hope.

Once again - Thanx everyone!

Hmm checked my pm folder nothing and did not see in this post where you asked.
I will try to get you good settings. do not recall what i sliced last. and do not want to send a bunch of old useless junk as part of a profile package.
ender typically sends test prints as g code.   Usually test prints from the manufacture are pretty good.

If you open the configuration page for sic3r . go to file there is an import configuration from g code. this should give near perfect settings .

NO.
I have been busy with all of the lousy weather this past week.  It rained all day today, musta got 6+ inches.  My pool looks like an infinity pool, which it aint.  So, tomorrow, I get to spend 40 - 50 on pool chemicals...never quits. 
I have managed to get some almost acceptable prints using PLA.  Lot of fine tuning to go.  I find a lot of  settings I never really bothered with with the SD make a noticeable difference with the Ender.  I have built a toy bin for the 3 year old across the street and want colors for her name, and stars, etc on some of the wood.  Most of the colors I have are in ABS.  I can get 8 - 10 layers of ABS before it starts shooting filament everywhere.  And in both PLA and ABS whatever I set my horizontal shell to is shifted by about 4mm to the right, the rest of the print in PLA anyway is OK just the base is offset.   I can't really find a working cure for that. 
I bought a self leveling thingie, why?  I have no idea.  I guess I needed a few more complications to my daily routine.  I need a firmware upgrade to the latest with the BL Touch.  I seem to have gotten an 'older' board.  Mine is V1.1.4.  Everywhere I've looked the D/L's are for 1.1.6 -  .8 -.9 and then it goes into the 4.x.x series. 
I can live without that for a while.  I really need a fix for printing ABS.  I have seen folks claiming good prints without an enclosure.  An enclosure for this thing might be like putting it into a closet.  I have tried 4 rolls of ABS at temps 230 - 245, bed at 85 - 100.  And still I'm getting corner warp and after 8 - 10 layers - spider web.  I guess I should drop the glass and go back to the pad thingie.....
I may look into a newer motherboard, but you already know my MB probs.  Speak of that I still will pay for a viable copy of Marlin that will run my SD.  Nuff for now, I could go on, but...

Yes I did.  I managed to get an acceptable print using ABS.  I purposely over extruded the first few layers, and used a small raft to get it to stick to the glass, and boy did it stick.  I used the flowrate in RH to complete the print, then changed the multiplier.  It took me quite a while to get it off the glass.  I need to maybe back off the 100C glass temp. 
Still trying to find the appropriate firmware upgrade for the leveling thing... 
You can see on the print where I manually backed off the flow rate.  The rest of the print looks real good.  I'm gettin' there.