New printer - need help... (Page 1 of 2)

firstly - RH is not a slicer - it uses Cura/Slic3r/etc to do the slicing, depending on what it is set to.. RH is simply a control program.
In the slicing tab, there should be a spot that tells you what slicing program is set, and there should be a button to access the settings for that slicer.

2nd, you need to calibrate the feed rate on the printer - ie: when you ask for 100mms to be fed, it feeds 100mms 

and 3rd - calibrate for temperature - find what works best for that printer..

Looks like you have layer adhesion issues which leads me to think temp is not high enough.
and with the wall thickness being an issue (especially noticeable on the black one) there are feed rate issues (see above)
The filament settings themselves should be fine.

I am downloading the most recent version of RH as I type this so I can poke around and help further.. I personally still use an older version because it just works (1.0.6)

Mike Lawsey of teaching tech you tube channel has a web page that goes through the whole calibration process.

https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#intro

No changes, 'cept temp 205/60.  Also, wasn't really stuck to bed.

Wall thickness ~.28

this MAY HELP
https://all3dp.com/2/slic3r-ender-3-profile-settings/

I have a new ender 3 pro on my desk . I assembled it  need to set up tune setting . hopefully will have time the next few days. Maybe can walk you through your struggles.

I have 5 calipers - 2 analog and 3 digital.  None of them are capable of measuring the hole size in the nozzle.  Maybe I could check the local stores for a set of wire gauges.  As I said before, the printer came with 2 nozzles neither of which are labeled.  I have to check if the nozzle off my E3d or E3d lite will fit, I think they are female thread tho.  I don't think either extruder will fit without some major mods, that would be too easy, besides, this one heats up much quicker that either E3d did.

The size of the filament that comes out of the nozzle is .43 - .44.  Why then does it continue to print .28, .32, .38 etc walls?  I did get one to print .40 last nite, but that was set at 1.70/1.65.  Then the extruder on it's way to 'home' knocked the piece over... (fixed that)  The same filament printed quite nicely on the SD at 1.70/.63. 
Sumtin aint rite...

yup, Tin has a point.. during the extruder steps/mm calibration, it absolutely needs to be going thru the heated nozzle because of back pressure. (i know there is a comment about using the "cold extrude" command in the calibration thing, ignore it, it should be (and will be) removed)

and I have to agree, the last image absolutely looks like under extrusion and possibly not hot enough - still.

If you are using Slic3r as your slicing program, in the advanced tab, the very first setting MUST be set to 0.48 for a 0.4 nozzle (120% of nozzle diameter)

that calibration worksheet I uploaded is all information that I gathered from this forum from people like wardjr, Azerate, and a bunch of others, put together in one place, in a cohesive format. Use that to advantage! The information has been tested many times over by many that came before us.. and I have taught many new people the same methods with excellent results.

Also, use a fine point marker when marking the filament for E-step calibration. using a big fat sharpie is not going to be accurate enough for this.

for the first print, extrusion multiplier should be set to 1.. extrusion multipler is a calculated value, not guessed at. 1 is the base value to start with.
layer height settings should be 0.3 for calibration purposes.

also.. speed... no idea what you have speeds set at, but it looks like it could be trying to go too fast.

also seeing some serious moire in that last attempted print.. but going to ignore that for the moment.

OK so finally have some time to set up and tune my ender 3 pro. . leveled the bed did a test print  baseline print . A Lego type brick. a little stingy on the retraction but that was my fault did not save the retraction settings. Also slight corner swell on the top layer all in all not a bad first print.
Also did a e step calibration changed the e steps from 93 to 100. did a shingle layer test cube average very close to .48 mm. currently printing a retraction tower test.

not saying you were guessing  but is seems you are under extruding .

anything above a 1.2 or below a 0.98 fudge factor and something else is wrong.

Another dumb question are you actually slicing with the setting you set in your profile ?

It is easy to miss a setting and i have saved settings to one profile only to have an old profile selected by the slicer.

In rh slic3er there are three profiles, print settings ,filament. and printer settings.

it is important that all the important setting be correct in each and the correct

profile is selected  also save changes. I have been at this for years and i still trip over these details.

If you are sure your e steps are correct check layer thickness something is not adhering. 
check your magic number for your z layers the old sd had a us standard thread the ender has a metric lead screw.

Lemme see if I got this rite - both are a 'Classic Printer' printing 1.75 Dia PLA filament at ~200C at ~0.11 distance onto a glass surface.  Other than the print surface size, there is little or no difference between the two.  In your calibration doc you set all at 0.3 layer height, 0.3 1st layer, perimeters, shells, etc. regardless of the printer maker, for initial calibration.  Based on that, you should be able to use the basic SD settings for 'print' and 'filament'.  The 'printer' settings will be different. 

Ya'all seem to forget, I have used only RH for ~7 years.  I am somewhat familiar with it. The SD settings I refer to are mostly the filament diameter/multiplier/0.4 nozzle.  An ideal 1.75/1.0/0.4 nozzle @200C should produce 0.48 on any printer.  I have 18 rolls of filament in 2 air tight containers with desiccant packages in with the filament.  All were measured and calibrated to produce viable prints.  I should be able to give you a roll of my filament along with the calibration numbers and you should be able to use it by just inputting my numbers. 
I overdid the 100mm calibration.  I nicked the filament with a razor blade at 100mm, rubbed a marker over the nick, then wiped it off, leaving me with a black line at 100mm.  I could just see it at the end. 
I have 2 new 0.4 nozzles.  1 from the new printer and 1 from the E3D.  I'm gonna use the E3D (I trust more) which will require a major z height adjustment and re-leveling as E3D's is noticeably shorter. Not something I look forward to on this machine.  I'll change nozzle and start at the beginning of the cali doc and have at it again!
So, again - thanx.  Ya'all bear with me  and I will try to get this nozzle change done today, got some running to do - folks that were here last nite decided they would be back on Monday to eat and drink whatever they missed... gotta go restock.