1 Topic by toolbox

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Topic: Solidoodle 3 cover designs

So in response to the news that my Solidoodle 3 will be arriving Monday, I have been desinging the case/cover I want for it.  At the moment I'm trying to decide between a sleek modern case that is similar to the Replicator 2 or the formlabs form 1 printer or a futuristic military case.  I'm really leaning towards the military design as the sleek modern one will seem too common place.  I would love to get anyones ideas and suggestions.  My real question is if it would be feasable to move the electronics and filament spool to the right side of the printer.  So far I have drawn up the military design which would house all the electronics seperately from the filament and printer. In this design, all the orange acrylic panels would be removable.

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2 Reply by lawsy

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Re: Solidoodle 3 cover designs

You should be able to move those item without too much trouble. Some wires may need to be extended to reach the new electronics location. Probably a good chance to rewire some of them that can fail easily.

What are you going to make the frame from?

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3 Reply by toolbox

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Re: Solidoodle 3 cover designs

I'm not entirely positive, but at the moment I'm leaning towards half inch PVC sheet with Acrylic windows.

4 Reply by toolbox

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Re: Solidoodle 3 cover designs

Well, after a quick look at prices, I take back the 1/2" solid PVC.  I would use foamed PVC sheet, but I don't trust it with the heated enclosure. I hate to say, but 1/2" birch plywood might be my best option price wise.

Does anyone have the standard dimensions of Solidoodle's filament spools, and the spools by other manufacturers?

5 Reply by IanJohnson

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Re: Solidoodle 3 cover designs

There are some spool dimensions in this thread - http://www.soliforum.com/topic/197/spoo … your-help/

You might also consider including a port for ducting in hot air, or ducting out fumes.  I use a miniature space heater to keep the ambient up inside the case, especially since I am sometimes printing in a garage that is 48F.  Just make sure that air cannot blow directly on the build platform.  ABS loves heat but hates convection.

6 Reply by toolbox

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Re: Solidoodle 3 cover designs

Good to know, thanks Ian, btw, I'm in Southern California as well, I'm sure I will be asking for more advice later on.

7 Reply by tealvince

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Re: Solidoodle 3 cover designs

Looks great.

A few suggestions:

- the outside does not get that warm so I think you would be ok with the PVC or wood.  You could also try fiberglass over styrofoam or carbon fiber.

- the center of gravity even with a full spool is a few inches in from the edge of the frame.

- I recommend incorporating steel reinforcement in the handle that is bolted to the frame because the full unit is pretty hefty and steel would give a bit more peace of mind. 

I added acrylic and a handle to my own unit.  You can see the location here:

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?actio … mp;preview

8 Reply by toolbox

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Re: Solidoodle 3 cover designs

Thanks tealvince.  I have a decent background in making stuff, so I'm pretty sure I can figure it out once I get the thing and really start putting some thought in to it.  I did figure that I would need some sort of metal frame under the plastic housing.  Chances are it will come down to what scraps I can get at work, and what I have laying around the shop.  Your's looks good by the way.  What kind of clearance do you need for the filament over the top?  It looks like about an 1.5"?

9 Reply by mm2tts

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Re: Solidoodle 3 cover designs

IanJohnson wrote:

You might also consider including a port for ducting in hot air, or ducting out fumes.  I use a miniature space heater to keep the ambient up inside the case, especially since I am sometimes printing in a garage that is 48F.  Just make sure that air cannot blow directly on the build platform.  ABS loves heat but hates convection.

What heater exactly do you have for the case? and what ambient temp are you aiming for? We would love to keep our ABS parts form warping.

10 Reply by tealvince

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Re: Solidoodle 3 cover designs

toolbox wrote:

Thanks tealvince.  I have a decent background in making stuff, so I'm pretty sure I can figure it out once I get the thing and really start putting some thought in to it.  I did figure that I would need some sort of metal frame under the plastic housing.  Chances are it will come down to what scraps I can get at work, and what I have laying around the shop.  Your's looks good by the way.  What kind of clearance do you need for the filament over the top?  It looks like about an 1.5"?

It's not in front of me, but I think it's about 2".

I like your design so much it's inspiring me to think about extending the standard frame with some angle iron and pop rivets to encompass the spool holder much like you have designed.

Perhaps I'm stating the obvious, but why not print out your case in olive green ABS?  It would be a great early project.  The design and style seem like they could easily be adapted to support overlapping parts that bolt onto an underlying steel frame, such as a system of straight crossbar members capped by spider-shaped corner pieces at the joints.  Based on what you've designed already, I think it would look great.

11 Reply by toolbox

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Re: Solidoodle 3 cover designs

Thanks tealvince,
While I will consider printing my case, it might be easier and faster for me to make it by hand...or trying to use the CNC router at work...assuming I can sneak the material in and out lol.  What I could do is make the extruded pieces on a table saw or something, and print all the corners as a joint that will attach all my pieces together.  Like I said, it will come down to what materials I have at my disposal and what I'm willing to spend at the time I start the project. If I wanted to get really fancy I could order extruded aluminum channel that has that cool chamfered edge, but I'm sure that would be pricey.

12 Reply by IanJohnson

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Re: Solidoodle 3 cover designs

What heater exactly do you have for the case? and what ambient temp are you aiming for? We would love to keep our ABS parts form warping.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XD … 04_s00_i00

It's only about 6" high and I use a 3" flexible duct to run it to the case.  It will get the inside to about 55C if the room is something like 65F-70F.  I'm finding that with the MK3 extruder, I tend to get filament jams if I leave it running at that temp, but it was better with the acrylic extruder.   If I preheat the inside and then turn it off when I start the print, it will be ok.  If the room is 55-60F I can keep it on.  Otherwise some kind of airflow adjustment might make it possible to control the temp somewhat.

Here is my case, which has an attachment for the duct - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34754

13 Reply by RGargus

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Re: Solidoodle 3 cover designs

Has anyone tried a thermostatically controled (via microcontroller) heat lamp to help maintain the internal environment?  It would not require any kind of fan that could generate air currents, and the growing use of acrylic cases may lend themselves well to radiant heating.

14 Reply by paeltz

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Re: Solidoodle 3 cover designs

IanJohnson wrote:

What heater exactly do you have for the case? and what ambient temp are you aiming for? We would love to keep our ABS parts form warping.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XD … 04_s00_i00

It's only about 6" high and I use a 3" flexible duct to run it to the case.  It will get the inside to about 55C if the room is something like 65F-70F.  I'm finding that with the MK3 extruder, I tend to get filament jams if I leave it running at that temp, but it was better with the acrylic extruder.   If I preheat the inside and then turn it off when I start the print, it will be ok.  If the room is 55-60F I can keep it on.  Otherwise some kind of airflow adjustment might make it possible to control the temp somewhat.

Here is my case, which has an attachment for the duct - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34754


These are now $27 on Amazon (free shipping) but I picked one up at my local Wal-Mart yesterday for $15.