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Topic: odd issues with Solidoodle 2

I had another snag in my week long snags trying to print my Atlas scanner parts today. after swapping to new better filament roll and less than 20mins to finsh a 3 hour print my SD2 decided to skip about 3 layers on Z and began 'AIR printing' wasting not only more of my time but lots of filament.

anyone had this b4? could I have paused the print, clear filament threads and manually adjusted Z back to model with control tabs and continued printing? or is that possible without killing print job and trashing print as I did?

that ended my days printing due to me about to toss the printer in the trash at that point as I have had it with all the hours of wasted printing the last week. seems I will never get my scanner printed and assembled for use (or attempted use with all the bugs people are reporting from software, programming, WIFI connections, Camera/Laser tweaking etc). already wasted more time and material than an acrylic enclosure costs

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

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Re: odd issues with Solidoodle 2

n2ri wrote:

...could I have paused the print, clear filament threads and manually adjusted Z back to model with control tabs and continued printing? or is that possible without killing print job and trashing print as I did?

Yes, you can do it.  As long as you know at which layer the print failed.  The idea is to edit the G-Code in real time, to remove all code up to the layer that failed, and have the printer start again, exactly where it left off.

Let's assume this happens as you look at it.  Kill the print job, but re-enable the bed heater so the print doesn't come off.  Next go the Preview tab in Repetier, and click the G-Code Editor tab below. 

Look a few lines down until you find the line marked ;Layer: 0.  This maybe 20-30 lines down, depending on your custom start g-code.

Next you need to find the beginning of the layer you want start at.  Let's say your printer failed while printing layer #212.  G-Code layers are number starting from 0, so the layer you're looking for is #211.  Easiest way is to manually scroll down, and put your cursor on a g-code line.  Look at the info line below the visualization tab.  It will show you what layer you're on.  Keep doing it until have found what you're looking for.

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=9567

Next, put your cursor at the end of the line above it, then scroll back up to the beginning of ;Layer: 0, and click while holding the SHIFT key.  That should select the entire chunk of code between Layer #0 and Layer # 211.  Click delete.

If you were to simply click start job, your printer would now go through the custom start code, then raise the print head (or lower the platform) and start printing right on top of your existing print.

NOTE:
Depending on your Start G-Code, your printer may only move the head to the surface of the platform, then move it to the center before it raises it up, which would of course hit your existing print, so you have to manually edit that part out, or better yet, change the code to where it moves the platform far enough to clear the model before starting.

In my case I have a line that looks like this:
G1 Z[first_layer_height] F200 ;move platform close to nozzle

I would change the [first_layer_height] to 22, because it's above the actual printing height of Z21.35 (see first line of code after ;Layer: 211).  So that line of code should read:

G1 Z22 F200 ;move platform close to nozzle

Anyway, your print head should now start slightly above your existing print, then move down to meet the top of the existing layer, and printing from there.  This works great, and the only possible issue I've come across is layer separation at the splice line.  This is due to the top layer of the print getting cold during this editing, but I simply add some acetone after the print is done to strengthen the area.

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To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

3

Re: odd issues with Solidoodle 2

no thats not what I was hoping for. way too much work.
I was wondering if I could just pause print and use manual controls to move Z back down to print without it changing what it thinks layer is being printed, since it skipped a few layers but showed as if it didnt e.g. it last layed down plastic on layer 256 then while going to layer 257 Z accualy went to layer 260 and began printing layer 257 from the 260 layer point (mid air) just making spider webs and gunk on hotend. and there was no reason for it. I was watching it print since I had so much trouble with the Octave roll the last week as it was way too fat to be sold as 1.75mm, it was rectangle shaped and I had to average its size at 1.85 and only 75% infill and still had thick prints and jams each layer. I still managed to get 12 useable prints one b4 it got thick was a 5 hour print. starting to get gun shy about starting anymore long prints now. and there are several on the Atlas scanner from 2.5-7 hours each and lots are near an hour each plus setup/cooldown times this adds up to over 1 complete spool of filament and over a week of print time min if all goes without fail. if I had known this b4 I would have bought the acrylic case and Pi2 for like $70 more and been scanning by now.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

4 (edited by pirvan 2016-01-18 21:43:50)

Re: odd issues with Solidoodle 2

no thats not what I was hoping for. way too much work.

It only takes a minute or two to edit the G-Code and restart the print.

But if you like waiting for another couple of hours to reprint the whole thing,  well then...

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

5 (edited by n2ri 2016-01-18 22:50:20)

Re: odd issues with Solidoodle 2

also found another part of my problem. when printing full (.3mm and over 80% infill with a .35mm nozzle) flow temp swings more and if extruder falls below 192c then it cant feed as well due to thick flow getting stiff. so I had to adjust temp from 195 (which does fine for small prints and thin layers/infill for years) to 199c and the max temp swing is 191-210c which may get better if I reset that since new heater heats faster than original. but for now its printing my scanner parts. it was going as low as 186c and acting like a jam ATM

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

6

Re: odd issues with Solidoodle 2

when I upgrade to E3d etc things will smooth out alot

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

7

Re: odd issues with Solidoodle 2

I'm missing something here.  Ran into pretty much the same problem yesterday - froze about 2 hours into a 3+ hour print.  Tried your suggestion.  Nowhere in my version of RH - 1.6.0 - does it say 'LAYER..' anything.  There are no readable comments throughout the entire listing except the first ~15 and last ~150 lines (parameters & settings).

Ender 3 Pro

8 (edited by heartless 2016-01-21 13:59:34)

Re: odd issues with Solidoodle 2

it doesnt actually say layer, but it is not hard to find the layer you need.

in the gcode editor panel, switch to "show single layer" for the preview...
then either use the slider or type in the layer you want, and click on the "first layer" button (in the red box)

in the editor panel, you will see a slight change in the color of the left side (arrow pointing to it) where the colors change is where the specified layer begins.

http://soliforum.com/i/?9uMMaVc.jpg

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

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Re: odd issues with Solidoodle 2

Heartless - Thank You.  I'll keep that in mind.  Hopefully I won't need it.  I have switched to using a Win7 laptop instead of Win 8.1, 10 & OSX.  Been printing 2 days with no issues except shear stupidity....on my part!

Thanx
Ski

Ender 3 Pro

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Re: odd issues with Solidoodle 2

Cura outputs verbose G-Code by default, which means it includes annotations like you see on my output.

If you use Slic3r, you need to enable the verbose output.  You do this by opening the Slic3r configuration, then go to:
Print Settings/Output Options, and check the Verbose G-Code checkbox

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

11

Re: odd issues with Solidoodle 2

pirvan wrote:

Cura outputs verbose G-Code by default, which means it includes annotations like you see on my output.

If you use Slic3r, you need to enable the verbose output.  You do this by opening the Slic3r configuration, then go to:
Print Settings/Output Options, and check the Verbose G-Code checkbox

thanks a ton Pirvan. how do you find so much info on these apps when they dont publish it for users to read up on?

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

12

Re: odd issues with Solidoodle 2

I also cant find anyplace where high limit for extruder is shown or set.

I raised my print settings for a filament to 201c and my extruder over shoots often to about 210c but dont know what limit is for Peek in SD2 or what Solidoodle set limit kill at.

anyway my 2nd Chineese replacement 40watt heater toasted lastnight and still dead today so looks like time for #3 good thing they sell em in groups on ebay of 5-10 lol crappy things. think they just recycled DUD Black Cat Firecrackers.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

13

Re: odd issues with Solidoodle 2

The high limit is set in firmware, in configuration.h.

PEEK is good to about 245C.

Why not get a quality heater cartridge? Here's what I use:

https://www.filastruder.com/collections … -cartridge

I have a few years and a few thousand hours of printing time across a number of printers, never had to replace a heater.

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Re: odd issues with Solidoodle 2

n2ri wrote:
pirvan wrote:

Cura outputs verbose G-Code by default, which means it includes annotations like you see on my output.

If you use Slic3r, you need to enable the verbose output.  You do this by opening the Slic3r configuration, then go to:
Print Settings/Output Options, and check the Verbose G-Code checkbox

thanks a ton Pirvan. how do you find so much info on these apps when they dont publish it for users to read up on?

The googles. For instance:

https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en#hl=e … +in+g-code

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Re: odd issues with Solidoodle 2

hey Tim what kind of connectors do you carry for extruder heater wires?

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

16 (edited by heartless 2016-01-22 03:46:50)

Re: odd issues with Solidoodle 2

pirvan wrote:

Cura outputs verbose G-Code by default, which means it includes annotations like you see on my output.

If you use Slic3r, you need to enable the verbose output.  You do this by opening the Slic3r configuration, then go to:
Print Settings/Output Options, and check the Verbose G-Code checkbox

Thanks Pirvan. smile

and this is what it looks like in Slic3r with that box checked...

http://soliforum.com/i/?3kLtaAP.jpg

(note is doesnt look exactly like what Pirvan posted, but it does say "move to next layer" with the layer number in parenthesis)

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

17

Re: odd issues with Solidoodle 2

Those are the minor differences between Cura and Slic3r.  Just a different way of annotating code

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

18

Re: odd issues with Solidoodle 2

OK after testing my extruder heater as good and finding the solidoodle wire connectors for it melted due to poor connection. replacing them with better permanent ones and trying it. back to the printing layer shift the right laser arm done 2x at about layer 40.
printed right laser holder and it done no shift at that layer so resliced right laser arm with the above readings checked. will retry printing it later after continuing rest of prints. cheapo heater #2 still working though.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs