1 (edited by willthewill 2015-05-27 19:05:19)

Topic: Broke a wire for my heater

It happened.

Well, hi all, i was disassembling my nozzle to clear it and at the part where i put back the pieces ( nozzle and break  if i speak right ), i made a wire melt and broke so, before i jump from a bridge can someone say me what to do now? ( repair, spare part compatible, prefer the rope...)

Thanks you in advance.
William

2

Re: Broke a wire for my heater

http://soliforum.com/i/?sM4DNLB.jpg

3

Re: Broke a wire for my heater

Looks like a standard cartridge heater...best to just replace it...there are 25 and 40 watt versions; not sure what the Press uses:

http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Ceramic-C … B00GGK1CC8

Or take the opportunity to upgrade to the E3D Hotend...
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/9709/e3d … dle-press/

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Ord Bot Hadron - RAMPS 1.4 - Bulldog XL - E3D v6 - 10" x 10" PCB Heated Build w/SSR - Glass Plate
Thanks for All of Your Help!

4

Re: Broke a wire for my heater

i broke mine to... you should contact solidoodle and see the specs on it

5

Re: Broke a wire for my heater

also, im not sure, but i think its 24v not 12v

6

Re: Broke a wire for my heater

The one IronMan linked is no good, that's a 12v version and the press uses 24v. Using a 12v heater in a 24v machine is very dangerous.

Here's a 24v cartridge:

http://www.filastruder.com/collections/ … -cartridge

25 watts is plenty.

7

Re: Broke a wire for my heater

would a 40w one work? they are easier to find on ebay

8

Re: Broke a wire for my heater

As long as it's rated for 24v yes.  But, what could be easier than the above provided link?

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

9

Re: Broke a wire for my heater

If you move to a beefier cartidge, you may want to turn down the max duty cycle on the heater. That will help limit how hot the cartridge can get if the heating control loop fails. (For example, if your thermistor or heater escapes the heater block.)  Also, you'll want to retune the feedback parameters.

10

Re: Broke a wire for my heater

Thnank you all it helped a lot, i ordered one!

11

Re: Broke a wire for my heater

elmoret wrote:

The one IronMan linked is no good, that's a 12v version and the press uses 24v. Using a 12v heater in a 24v machine is very dangerous.

Here's a 24v cartridge:

Oops...Thanks elmoret...Learn something new every day tongue

SD2 - Stock - Enclosure - Heated Bed - Glass Plate - Auto Fire Extinguisher
Ord Bot Hadron - RAMPS 1.4 - Bulldog XL - E3D v6 - 10" x 10" PCB Heated Build w/SSR - Glass Plate
Thanks for All of Your Help!

12

Re: Broke a wire for my heater

http://soliforum.com/i/?gZCVPLU.jpg  http://soliforum.com/i/?xsbvimB.jpg http://soliforum.com/i/?qpRhvpn.jpg

So, i received my heater, but ( i admit i'm a noob) i just don't know how to connect it to the printer, as the original heater is linked by a plastic part to another.

Thank you

13

Re: Broke a wire for my heater

Your heater doesn't have any polarity; what I mean is that it doesn't matter which wire from the heater attaches to which wire on your wiring harness. You just have to connect the wires together. An easy way to do this would be to take the wires from your old cartridge (which have a connector on them) and splice them on to your new wires. You can do this a number of ways, the easiest being using wire nuts (which you can get at any hardware store) or to use a lineman splice (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Union_splice) and some tape or heat shrink to cover it up. As long as you aren't so close to the heater that the wires will get hot, you can attach it however you'd like.

SD3 w/ RUMBA (8825s), merlin hot end (in pieces). Ender3 w/ silent board for PLA printing. Ender5 w/ silent board, e3d v6, new z lead screw, and glass bed. DiY Kossel w/ smoothieboard (in pieces). Vellman Vertex (in pieces)
Shapeoko2 router in process of being converted to laser engraver (in pieces)
Multicam 5000 series CNC Router w/ 11HP spindle, 5x10' table, and auto tool changer (in pieces)

14

Re: Broke a wire for my heater

Or if the leads on the new cartridge are long enough, you can run them through the black wire hose harness back to the board and connect directly...

SD2 - Stock - Enclosure - Heated Bed - Glass Plate - Auto Fire Extinguisher
Ord Bot Hadron - RAMPS 1.4 - Bulldog XL - E3D v6 - 10" x 10" PCB Heated Build w/SSR - Glass Plate
Thanks for All of Your Help!

15

Re: Broke a wire for my heater

Did it work?

16

Re: Broke a wire for my heater

TheBaron: Seem i was right to wait for some advices! I'll try this out this afternoon, but it seem indeed a good  solution, as i didn't find on internet how to connect wires to wire to wire connector.

Iron man: Indeed, the cable is long enough, but if i'm right, last time i checked the wires were connected by similar connector so it only push the probleme farther, but i will consider this option this afternoon ( maybe will be a more définitive alternative when/if i decide to upgrade later to e3D)

ekul3e3: I keep you up to date, should be done in a coupe of hours

Anyway thanks you all, great to have so much quick answers when!

17

Re: Broke a wire for my heater

It seem to work, i've reconnected all the part and can heat without problem, have to test while printing to be sure if i all did well, mostly regardinf the isolation of the wires, I'll send photo when i will be confirmed let me say that you helped me very much, i feel a little bit less lame now thank to your advices big_smile

18

Re: Broke a wire for my heater

Awesome! I am glad we could help you out. It is important to make sure you have the wires protected after a splice to ensure they don't short out. A good wrapping in electrical tape will work if your splice is solid, but I prefer heat shrink.

Don't feel bad about asking for help. We all had to start somewhere!

SD3 w/ RUMBA (8825s), merlin hot end (in pieces). Ender3 w/ silent board for PLA printing. Ender5 w/ silent board, e3d v6, new z lead screw, and glass bed. DiY Kossel w/ smoothieboard (in pieces). Vellman Vertex (in pieces)
Shapeoko2 router in process of being converted to laser engraver (in pieces)
Multicam 5000 series CNC Router w/ 11HP spindle, 5x10' table, and auto tool changer (in pieces)

19 (edited by willthewill 2015-06-06 20:47:06)

Re: Broke a wire for my heater

I tested a print today and all was going well! i let far too many lengh of cable ( in case i fuck up somhere ), so i'll make it shorter them to be sure they did not get stuck somewhere while moving! I'll send you the picture when i'll finish this!

20

Re: Broke a wire for my heater

Glad to hear!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5tsuzGt964

big_smile

SD2 - Stock - Enclosure - Heated Bed - Glass Plate - Auto Fire Extinguisher
Ord Bot Hadron - RAMPS 1.4 - Bulldog XL - E3D v6 - 10" x 10" PCB Heated Build w/SSR - Glass Plate
Thanks for All of Your Help!

21

Re: Broke a wire for my heater

Funny to hear from IronMan himself lol!
Yea sorry I'm french and my English is like a table lacking leg.

22

Re: Broke a wire for my heater

big_smile

SD2 - Stock - Enclosure - Heated Bed - Glass Plate - Auto Fire Extinguisher
Ord Bot Hadron - RAMPS 1.4 - Bulldog XL - E3D v6 - 10" x 10" PCB Heated Build w/SSR - Glass Plate
Thanks for All of Your Help!

23

Re: Broke a wire for my heater

I had the exact same problem. I found this replacement on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Solidoodle-Replac … 014Q6OPM2/
It works well.

24 (edited by willthewill 2015-09-11 15:30:54)

Re: Broke a wire for my heater

Thanks you so much! I've already change my heater for a E3D one ( and in a few day i'll change for a full e3d lol ) and anyway itdoeas not ship to my country big_smile. But it is really good to see some replacement part for the press as i didn't find any of them last time.

For exemple, right now, my heated bed is broke and i wait since two month for solidoodle to ship me a new one, but they are themself waiting the Press part to arrive, so i can't use abs right now....