51

Re: Getting good scans

Hi!
I already did some nice scans with my Atlas 3D, but this week-end, I encountered something strange. While, up to now, everything worked fine in terms of scaling, I started to havve troubles with the size of the result.
I scanned a character, and at the end the result shows something flattened... I don't understand why, since I didn't change nothing except the manipulation to enhance the focus of the PiCam.

So, before my scans where well-sized but not accurate, now my scans are accurate but flattened.

Any idea of what could happened?
http://soliforum.com/i/?N1GeOh1.jpg
http://soliforum.com/i/?OcjVann.jpg

52

Re: Getting good scans

Until Uriah chimes in, there are only 2 things I can think of:

1.  One of your lasers has been moved, so check your calibration to make sure both lasers are converging in the middle of the turntable.
2.  You did a firmware upgrade, or made changes to the configuration.

I'd start by checking the calibration, then checking the setup (X, Y & Z values).

Good luck

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

53 (edited by hairu526 2015-08-31 22:50:24)

Re: Getting good scans

Arnaud, great Vaas bobble-head mashup!

Check the dimensions of the scan results.  If it is wider than what it is supposed to be but not shorter, then it suggest that your camera is not centered on the turntable or that your lasers are not oriented to the center of the turntable.  If it is the proper width but is short, then it suggest that your camera is tilted up and not looking straight ahead.

- Uriah

54

Re: Getting good scans

if adjustment parts of kit are not toothed to lock when calibrated. then a good idea would be to scribe them at edge of pivot where they come together after calibration to make re-alignment faster WHEN somebody bumps or moves them in the future. due to 'murphys law'

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

55

Re: Getting good scans

Hi! Thanks a lot for your feedback. Yes, my Vaas-vahiné has been used as a model for my Atlas 3D tests :-).

After your remarks and suggestions, I checked the global calibration, and after few tries, everything come to a correct scale again. Now I'm encountering other issues. Globally, the scan results are nice, but often too messy, and I don't understand why. I tried different situations (different light expositions, different backgrounds, only one laser, default resolution instead high, ...) and at the end, I'm not able to find a common mode.
For example, I tried to scan a Lego Omer:
http://soliforum.com/i/?p6zGX2f.jpg
With both lasers and with default resolution, I've got the folllowing result:
http://soliforum.com/i/?Wif1DvU.jpg
With only one laser, I got this:
http://soliforum.com/i/?kyWiDes.jpg
When trying the high res and both lasers on those two models:
http://soliforum.com/i/?IKV110f.jpg
http://soliforum.com/i/?lD9jVl2.jpg
I respectively have the following results: blurry, unfinished and asymmetric:
http://soliforum.com/i/?kkDos8k.jpg
http://soliforum.com/i/?VOhjTfs.jpg

The worst result is on the S. Gainsbourg head. I never succeeded to scan it properly. Never. Is it due to the fact that it is a bit too small? For the other models, sometimes it is correct, sometimes not. I also tried to push some more light on the model to scan, and I think it is worst than only natural daylight.

Just for info, and to give some context on my scans, I took some inspiration from this forum concerning the calibration and built this (used on top of the small printed device for camera calibration):
http://soliforum.com/i/?xfMFRuK.jpg
Also, for the correct superimposition of the two lasers, I'm checking it like this:
http://soliforum.com/i/?ySQr86v.jpg

So, if I'm not wrong with the calibration (and I think I'm not), I'm then lost with the scanner parameterization and environment (mainly regarding the model exposition).
Does someone have some clues for me?

56 (edited by ggunners 2015-09-03 14:16:35)

Re: Getting good scans

Two things in lighting. You have light coming from the side, it should probably be coming from the front to make the scan more equal left to right.

Also, you have a reflection on the model, flat lighting will prevent the reflection. You can do this with tissue paper over light sources or bounced lighting. In addition, consider reducing the shine on the object using some talcom powder to soften the reflection.

If your light source is coming from the right, maybe rotating the scanner 90 degrees left would help.

SD2 Expert stock, ABS fume fan,
XYZ DaVinci 1.0 stock ABS, Simplify3D
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57

Re: Getting good scans

Exact, the main source of light is coming from the right (due to the way the scanner is installed on my desk)... This could lead to part of my problems. Concerning the reflection, I've tried to expose my model(s) with direct front light exposure (halogen lamp). It seems it was not the best idea as the result was even worst. Should I use low power LEDs (as Pirvan does)?

58 (edited by pirvan 2015-09-03 22:55:24)

Re: Getting good scans

Here are a couple of things to consider:

  • The calibration grid is fine to get everything lined up mechanically, but you should also use the Auto-calibration after that.  Some of your models look like mine before auto-calibration was introduced.

  • If you haven't already done so, upgrade to the latest version (v.1.9).

  • My LED's are RGB, so I can change their color.  I found that, if you have a lot of white or light blue or green  colors in your model, putting a yellow/orange light on helps the camera see the laser better.  On very red, dark orange and brown colors, I use a green/yellow light.  Bright white doesn't usually yield good scans.

  • There is no such thing as a common denominator in terms of settings which will work across the board.  At a minimum you'll have to adjust the laser threshold.

  • Reflective surfaces are the root of all evil.  I used talcum/baby powder, and lately I've used (stolen) my wife's makeup kit and I use tanning powder applied with a makeup brush to darken the light surfaces and cut down the reflection and glare.

Even with all these preparations, I still end up doing 3-4 tries before I get a usable scan.  Also there's always a lot of clean up to do to the point cloud. 

You can adjust the light and laser threshold until it gets rid of most of the noise (stray pixels), but then you'll also loose a lot of details in the dark areas of your model.  When you adjust the threshold to pick up all that detail, you will inevitably pick up a lot of noise.   It's just nature of the beast.

But with some patience, and some post-scan clean up work, I'm sure you'll be able to achieve some nice results.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

59

Re: Getting good scans

The above comments are right on.  Also, it also looks as if the model may have been sliding around a bit.  Make sure you use the table liner to prevent the model from moving.

60

Re: Getting good scans

Excellent point.  The jerky nature of the motor stepping will shift the model around, so you need to prevent that.

For my scans, instead of the liner that came with the scanner, I'm using a piece of double face tape (carpet mounting tape works great and it's very thin).

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

61 (edited by n2ri 2015-09-03 23:09:12)

Re: Getting good scans

wow this is exciting seeing not only the support on this scanner here but whats possible with it and being as open source as SD printers etc for tweaks/mods. cant wait til I can buy one.

think I will make a tent to use it in for better control of light also

PS like homers halo lol

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

62

Re: Getting good scans

Here is a fairly simple model, with very few hidden areas.  It still required some cleanup, but it was pretty straight forward.
The cleaned up point cloud on the left, the reconstructed mesh on the right.  No additional retouching was done.

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=9141

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To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

63

Re: Getting good scans

Thanks a lot for your help.
I did installed the latest software version, and ran the auto-calibration in addition to the calibration grid. I didn't used the table liner as I thought my small support (in fact, a foam cube) would be enough. I couldnt't figure out that the model was sliding on the table, I mean, that a microscopic shift could constitute a major issue for the scan... I'll definitely try the liner.

I'll do a lot of other tests, for sure. I'll buy also a RGB LED strip to be able to change the light, and I'll try to resorb reflections with talcum or tanning powder. I'll keep you informed. Once again, thanks a lot fo the help.

Pirvan, what are generally your parameters for your scans? High res and both lasers? What threshold for the laser? Only one table revolution?

64

Re: Getting good scans

Here are the settings I used on the scan above

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=9142

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To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

65

Re: Getting good scans

Am I missing something? I thought scanners where designed to see only the laser light or whatever emission it is using to scan with. The cameras or sensors are supposed to be fitted with lenses that only pass the reflected laser light. That being said ambient light should have little to no effect on a scan. What I see in these scans are shiny spots on the models causing spurious reflections that the camera is picking up and causing the bad and or distorted scans.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
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66

Re: Getting good scans

No, if you put a color filter over the camera you can't get any color data.

Also white light is all colors combined, so even if you filter only red light, you'll still catch a reflection from white light since red is included in white.

67 (edited by carl_m1968 2015-09-05 02:31:58)

Re: Getting good scans

If these scans are mostly for printing, why does it matter if you have color data? Most can only print in one color anyways. I would sacrifice color for precision any day.

If you put a band pass filter on your camera that passes only 365nm (Correction, should be 635nm) or 640nm depending on the type of laser diodes being used you would get no noise from ambient light reflections. That frequency is found in very few sources of natural light and is so narrow and of low amplitude it is nearly undetectable by cameras with band pass filters. Only lasers can generate a sufficient amount of it to be detected. I did holography for five years and am very familiar with that small line of the visual spectrum.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

68 (edited by n2ri 2015-09-05 02:35:14)

Re: Getting good scans

carl_m1968 wrote:

If these scans are mostly for printing, why does it matter if you have color data? Most can only print in one color anyways. I would sacrifice color for precision any day.

If you put a band pass filter on your camera that passes only 365nm or 380nm depending on the type of laser diodes being used you would get no noise from ambient light reflections. That frequency is found in very few sources of natural light and is do narrow and of low amplitude it is nearly undetectable by cameras with band pass filters. Only lasers can generate a sufficient amount of it to be detected. I did holigraphy for five years and am very familiar with that small line of the visual spectrum.

true thats how laser and IR can be used to transfer digital data due to fine defined light waves like for fiber optics and pulses

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

69

Re: Getting good scans

Hi all,
I tried some scans this week-end (taking into account all the abbove remarks), and the results were ... disparate. My calibration was perfect, I tried several parameters, and my conclusion is that the light exposure is the most important thing: too bright leads to a lot of artefacts, holes, blurry parts, ..., and too dark is not ok as the PiCam results are quite bad in this kind of conditions. Natural light is the best, but not always available :-). So, artificial light is necessary... and the problem is to find out a good one, and a good installation (should be indirect, and mat).
Other interesting observation: my scans with default parameters are seeminlgy better than in high-res (same model, same moment of the day and calibration verified as ok). I don't understand why.

Anyway, I never succeeded to have a high quality result as you can have, Pirvan. The last one is almost perfect, well done.

One more remark: calibration is difficult, and not permanent. I have to re-calibrate the lasers after one or more days without use. I suppose this is due to ambiant temperature variations. But it quickly becomes an easy thing to do :-).

I'll try to continue to give a feedback as soon as I have made some progress with my Atlas 3D.

70 (edited by n2ri 2015-09-08 04:27:25)

Re: Getting good scans

making a precision instrument of material that can change with humidity etc is a likely problem. maybe main frame/support of all alignment components should be made of a more stable material like extruded Aluminum.

at least paint/seal all parts from the ambient elements like we did model cars as kids.

arnaud.florence wrote:

Hi all,
I tried some scans this week-end (taking into account all the abbove remarks), and the results were ... disparate. My calibration was perfect, I tried several parameters, and my conclusion is that the light exposure is the most important thing: too bright leads to a lot of artefacts, holes, blurry parts, ..., and too dark is not ok as the PiCam results are quite bad in this kind of conditions. Natural light is the best, but not always available :-). So, artificial light is necessary... and the problem is to find out a good one, and a good installation (should be indirect, and mat).
Other interesting observation: my scans with default parameters are seeminlgy better than in high-res (same model, same moment of the day and calibration verified as ok). I don't understand why.

Anyway, I never succeeded to have a high quality result as you can have, Pirvan. The last one is almost perfect, well done.

One more remark: calibration is difficult, and not permanent. I have to re-calibrate the lasers after one or more days without use. I suppose this is due to ambiant temperature variations. But it quickly becomes an easy thing to do :-).

I'll try to continue to give a feedback as soon as I have made some progress with my Atlas 3D.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs