1

Topic: Solidoodle Workbench

Hey everyone,
  I'm very new to the 3D printing world and am finding a lot of the technical jargon a little difficult to follow. I'm looking into getting the Workbench. If I do and I run into problems, or need to do something like upgrade the hot end would anyone here be willing to "barney" style the process for me?

Mainly the thing that gets me is the coding. I'm very good mechanically with my hands so the actual replacement of parts isn't an issue, but making the machine software recognize them is the concerning part. I'd hate to invest so much only to sit and stare at it being terrified of changing coding to make it work correctly.

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Re: Solidoodle Workbench

Welcome to the forum.
No worries we've got your back!

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

3 (edited by CrazyCat 2015-01-23 01:02:04)

Re: Solidoodle Workbench

Thanks!  I'm so excited, yet I was super nervous about ordering worrying that I would be too tech dumb to figure it out lol. I'm hoping to get it ordered next week and then the long 2 month wait for it to arrive.

Has anyone received or tried out the new Workbench yet?

4

Re: Solidoodle Workbench

I think there's a couple around just search through the forum you'll find em.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

5

Re: Solidoodle Workbench

I've received the workbench... I've had several issues with it and am still working to get decent prints from it.

It arrived missing several items. The Y axis wasn't aligned properly and would just skip the motor, i had to realign the y axis belts to get it to even move.

The auto leveling feature sounds nice but i haven't had great results with this yet.  I'm still having issues where the print head is clipping the print and knocking it loose from the print bed.

The heated bed takes foreverrrrr to get to temperature.

I'm still looking for other ideas to gain better prints with this machine.

I also have a ultimaker 2 printer that I love. I get gorgeous prints from that machine with minimal effort.

6 (edited by CrazyCat 2015-01-23 14:24:29)

Re: Solidoodle Workbench

Thanks for the info! When I eventually get mine I will let you know if I have similar issues. Hopefully you will get it all worked out and printing great. Its an exciting machine since the print bed is so large for such a cheap price, but only if it actually works!

The ultimaker looks amazing, but unfortunately its a bit out of my price range. I'm already kicking myself in the butt over the 1300 for the workbench. First 3d printer jitters I guess.

7 (edited by slowjeo170 2015-02-02 20:42:48)

Re: Solidoodle Workbench

Hi,
One of the things that bothered me about my Workbench was how close the filament was to the Z-axis rods while printing. I've even had the filament rub against the greasy rods. The first thing I did was to just re-route the filament over the top of the frame, then I drew up these filament guides in Sketchup and was just successful today in finally getting them uploaded to Thingiverse. Hope you find it useful.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:650789

Other than that, it took awhile to get the y-axis to stop skipping. Re-tensioning and aligning the belts helped with that. Still having problems with my circles. Working on that. In the process of building my enclosure right now, so that I can try a large print without it separating from the bed. i almost have the G-code where I like it. Thanks to help on this forum, the start code with the 16 point auto-level is done and working good, just need to tweak the end code.

Joe

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Re: Solidoodle Workbench

Thanks for the filament guides, I can't wait to try them. We get our Workbench tomorrow and hopefully I can get it running shortly after.

FuseBox 1.5 CoreXY - e3dv6 - Graphic Smart Display
Solidoodle 2 - e3dv6 - Hobb Goblin - e3d Titan - lawsy carriages - Direct Drive Y Axis - T8 Z axis - OctoPi

9 (edited by ytr 2015-02-04 16:46:50)

Re: Solidoodle Workbench

For the heated bed issue, I have the same problem. The heated bed function seems unable to work. When I boost with hair dryer, this unit starts to work and maintain the desired temperature.

Right now try to make Y axis to work smoothly as well.

Gruu1885 wrote:

I've received the workbench... I've had several issues with it and am still working to get decent prints from it.

It arrived missing several items. The Y axis wasn't aligned properly and would just skip the motor, i had to realign the y axis belts to get it to even move.

The auto leveling feature sounds nice but i haven't had great results with this yet.  I'm still having issues where the print head is clipping the print and knocking it loose from the print bed.

The heated bed takes foreverrrrr to get to temperature.

I'm still looking for other ideas to gain better prints with this machine.

I also have a ultimaker 2 printer that I love. I get gorgeous prints from that machine with minimal effort.

10

Re: Solidoodle Workbench

ytr wrote:

For the heated bed issue, I have the same problem. The heated bed function seems unable to work. When I boost with hair dryer, this unit starts to work and maintain the desired temperature.

Right now try to make Y axis to work smoothly as well.

Try calibrating the PID settings on the bed. Here's the procedure:

http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … g-your-PID

As for the Y-axis, my belts were so tight and out of alignment they wouldn't even move. Try this:

http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … Tensioning

The instructions and videos are not specific to the Workbench, but the info is usable

11

Re: Solidoodle Workbench

My Y axis won't move so I'm going to try the tension thing. X axis, and Z axis homed ok.

Is anyone using a Mac with their workbench? I want to know if I need to change some of the settings. Running RH MAC ver 0.56 that I downloaded from Solidoodle support page. Basically just have a lot of questions. Do I need to change the bed size? I added workbench as a profile and changed extruders to 2 and tested them and the heated bed, both heat up just fine.

There are just a lot of options to change and I'm feeling overwhelmed, as I've only used makerware to print on a Makerbot.

FuseBox 1.5 CoreXY - e3dv6 - Graphic Smart Display
Solidoodle 2 - e3dv6 - Hobb Goblin - e3d Titan - lawsy carriages - Direct Drive Y Axis - T8 Z axis - OctoPi

12 (edited by walkie20 2015-02-06 05:51:41)

Re: Solidoodle Workbench

Yeah, the belt tensioning video really helps for the Y Axis.



For the Z Axis Calibration, to use the autobed leveling feature on the Workbench (with Repetier - since Soliprint 1.1.0 will not recognize the printer) try this:

1. Lower the table & Make sure the leveling switch by the extruder is ALL THE WAY DOWN

2. Prep & position your stl file in Repetier & run Slic3r

3. Manually turn on the extruder heat and/or heat bed in Repetier (you can also add a code line for this, but I like to do it manually)

4. Paste the following code in the GCode, below the command: M107:

G28 X0 Y0 ;home X and Y
G29 ;probe bed
G90; set absolute coordinates
G92 E0; reset extruder distance
G1 Z5 F300 ;move platform down 5mm
G1 X145 Y145 F3000 ; move to back right corner

5. Click Run

The sensor should autolevel. It seems that Marlin is ready to go for this. Works well for me! Hope this helps you!

I cannot yet post links, but check out the video on YouTube by searching: "Solidoodle Workbench - Z Axis AUTOLEVEL in Repetier"

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13

Re: Solidoodle Workbench

Can someone who has done the tensioning give me some tips and tricks? Ive gotten the y-axis to move towards the front of the printer however it won't move back, just binds up. In the video they describe the tension as not too tight and not too loose, well I've never changed tension on a belt before so those directions don't help all the much. How much tension should the belts have? Should I be able to push them below the rod?

FuseBox 1.5 CoreXY - e3dv6 - Graphic Smart Display
Solidoodle 2 - e3dv6 - Hobb Goblin - e3d Titan - lawsy carriages - Direct Drive Y Axis - T8 Z axis - OctoPi

14

Re: Solidoodle Workbench

After some trial and error that included sliding all the belts off the pulleys and making sure the motor could spin the back rod easily, I think the belts are not aligned. The video about the tension is great for information, but actually adjusting them is totally different. Should I have the extruders pushed all the way to the back or all the way to the front when tensioning? Or do I need to do both like the video shows?

On the other hand, all the tinkering I've been having to do is definitely going to help when I get my prusa i3 kit. Also I'm going to try and help anyone else with a binding problem because I feel like after I get it correct I can make a video that shows the process a little clearer.

FuseBox 1.5 CoreXY - e3dv6 - Graphic Smart Display
Solidoodle 2 - e3dv6 - Hobb Goblin - e3d Titan - lawsy carriages - Direct Drive Y Axis - T8 Z axis - OctoPi

15 (edited by widespreaddeadhead 2015-02-06 19:04:57)

Re: Solidoodle Workbench

Update: After checking the screws on the pulleys to make sure they are tight, I can get the Y-axis to move back 10 steps twice before it binds up again. Almost looks like the belt from the motor to the back rod is skipping.

FuseBox 1.5 CoreXY - e3dv6 - Graphic Smart Display
Solidoodle 2 - e3dv6 - Hobb Goblin - e3d Titan - lawsy carriages - Direct Drive Y Axis - T8 Z axis - OctoPi

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Re: Solidoodle Workbench

The easiest way I have found to balance the belts is start by loosening the grub screw on the right pulley on the rear drive rod.  Then move the whole gantry to the center and tension the belts equally.  Then you want to slide the gantry back and forth fully several times stopping in the center until both sides feel as though they are resting in an equal and neutral position.
Use both hands while doing this.
Once you feel it is as aligned as it can get tighten the grub screw without rotating the rear rod.
This is easier with the motor belt removed but can be done either way.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

17

Re: Solidoodle Workbench

I got it working!

Ran through the first few tension instructions about balancing the belts, thanks wardjr for letting me know to tension with the gantry in the center. Luckily after two days of tinkering the belts tensions were perfect so that when I tightened the screws on the pulleys and tested moving the gantry, it was way more smooth and didn't require as much force. Homed X-axis which was working fine already, and then the moment of truth... homed the Y-axis and it worked!!!

Just an FYI for anyone using RH with a Mac... I didn't notice at first but when it came time to actually print I couldn't find the extrude or retract buttons anywhere, well the window size for RH was too small and there are no scroll bars, so if you find yourself with the same problem, resize the window bigger and the hidden buttons will appear!

FuseBox 1.5 CoreXY - e3dv6 - Graphic Smart Display
Solidoodle 2 - e3dv6 - Hobb Goblin - e3d Titan - lawsy carriages - Direct Drive Y Axis - T8 Z axis - OctoPi

18

Re: Solidoodle Workbench

Hey everyone,
I ended up deciding to go with the Robo3D for my first choice. After seeing some of the issues you guys were having with the workbench I was concerned being new I wouldn't be able to get it running and the forums on the Robo3D seem to show it is running fairly decent straight out of the box. The lead times on the workbench also bothered me as well. I'm not very patient lol. I started a new thread in the forum here under discussion for any 3D printers were I will post my review and experience with the Robo3D if anyone is interested.

19 (edited by walkie20 2015-02-09 04:27:57)

Re: Solidoodle Workbench

Congrats on getting it working! Yeah, RH is a bit confusing on a Mac; I had a similar problem with the window not being full size.

I've found the Workbench works great out of the box. The problem is that Solidoodle has posted NO GUIDANCE on how to get started with it. Mine is working great so far though. I am trying to post videos to what works for me.

ONE NOTE: I JUST found that Solidoodle's version of Repetier Host has an OLD (REALLY OLD) version of Slic3r built into it, which is supposedly slower and does not work as well. I just downloaded  new version of Slicer and am going to try it out. A bit challenging installing it in RH. I will see if it works better & try to communicate how to update RH if it works. Up until now most of the defaults have worked okay (I posted a video on Youtube about that too...).

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Re: Solidoodle Workbench

walkie20 wrote:

Congrats on getting it working! Yeah, RH is a bit confusing on a Mac; I had a similar problem with the window not being full size.

I've found the Workbench works great out of the box. The problem is that Solidoodle has posted NO GUIDANCE on how to get started with it. Mine is working great so far though. I am trying to post videos to what works for me.

ONE NOTE: I JUST found that Solidoodle's version of Repetier Host has an OLD (REALLY OLD) version of Slic3r built into it, which is supposedly slower and does not work as well. I just downloaded  new version of Slicer and am going to try it out. A bit challenging installing it in RH. I will see if it works better & try to communicate how to update RH if it works. Up until now most of the defaults have worked okay (I posted a video on Youtube about that too...).

Thanks! Other than the first hiccups its printing now, just objects curling at the edge and the object get knocked around the print bed, but I'm going to try glue stick soon. If you do get a new version of Slic3r working please let me know how you did it. Also, since I'm so new can you give me some tips on how to use the dual extruders on an object(print in 2 colors), and how can I change settings so that RH recognizes the 12x12 bed?

FuseBox 1.5 CoreXY - e3dv6 - Graphic Smart Display
Solidoodle 2 - e3dv6 - Hobb Goblin - e3d Titan - lawsy carriages - Direct Drive Y Axis - T8 Z axis - OctoPi

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Re: Solidoodle Workbench

Glue stick worked pretty well keeping the print stuck to the bed. Now I'm only having trouble with the edges of the filament guide someone posted warping and bending up, which eventually the dual nozzle will knock loose.

FuseBox 1.5 CoreXY - e3dv6 - Graphic Smart Display
Solidoodle 2 - e3dv6 - Hobb Goblin - e3d Titan - lawsy carriages - Direct Drive Y Axis - T8 Z axis - OctoPi

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Re: Solidoodle Workbench

widespreaddeadhead wrote:

Glue stick worked pretty well keeping the print stuck to the bed. Now I'm only having trouble with the edges of the filament guide someone posted warping and bending up, which eventually the dual nozzle will knock loose.

aquanet, bet you'll never use glue stick again

23 (edited by widespreaddeadhead 2015-02-10 17:20:16)

Re: Solidoodle Workbench

jagowilson wrote:

aquanet, bet you'll never use glue stick again

Trying this right now, the glue is leaving some bad residue on the bottom of the print so I hope this clears that up. Also we enclosed the bed with cardboard as a quick fix.

FuseBox 1.5 CoreXY - e3dv6 - Graphic Smart Display
Solidoodle 2 - e3dv6 - Hobb Goblin - e3d Titan - lawsy carriages - Direct Drive Y Axis - T8 Z axis - OctoPi

24

Re: Solidoodle Workbench

Anyone know what the diameter size of the nozzle is?

FuseBox 1.5 CoreXY - e3dv6 - Graphic Smart Display
Solidoodle 2 - e3dv6 - Hobb Goblin - e3d Titan - lawsy carriages - Direct Drive Y Axis - T8 Z axis - OctoPi

25

Re: Solidoodle Workbench

widespreaddeadhead wrote:

Anyone know what the diameter size of the nozzle is?

For the nozzle size, I put 0.4mm in RH and it seems to work well.