1 (edited by ne14pez 2014-06-20 20:00:50)

Topic: E3D 0.6mm Nozzle Useless

Most things I print are large and do not need to be perfect, so I am more interested in speed.  I installed the 0.6mm nozzle to be able to print very fast.  I set the layer height to 0.5mm and the layer width to about 0.85mm.  Using these settings, I cannot move faster than 80 mm/s or the extrusion comes out blobby.  I think there is an upper limit to the volume of ABS that I can push through the E3D before it acts funny.  I used to print at 120-150 mm/s using a 0.35mm nozzle without much decrease in quality.  So I'm thinking I would be better off with a 0.5mm nozzle and crank the speed back up so I can maximize the volumetric output while also getting the detail of a smaller nozzle. 

Anybody else have this issue?

2 (edited by LdyMox 2014-06-20 20:28:35)

Re: E3D 0.6mm Nozzle Useless

I just installed my .6 nozzle yesterday on the E3D; I have had mixed suscess but then again I am working with laywood for the first time. Ok this is not too helpful but i'm intrested in what other people say about this.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

3

Re: E3D 0.6mm Nozzle Useless

Have you also increased temperature? Increasing flow rate means less time to absorb heat, so you need a higher heater block temp...

Also:

0.85*0.5=0.425sqmm * 80mm/sec = 34cumm/sec
0.42 (assumed) * 0.3 (assumed) * 150mm/sec = 18.9cumm/sec

So even with the linear speed limitation, a 0.6mm nozzle still nearly DOUBLES volumetric flow rate. On top of that, the difference is really larger as you won't spend much time if any at 150mm/sec due to accel limits. Not sure I'd call that "useless".

Math is awfully inconvenient sometimes.

4

Re: E3D 0.6mm Nozzle Useless

I tried a range of temps between 125 and 150 with the same results.  Also, extruding into the air also has a limit around 250-300mm/s (extruder motor) where the output starts having some serious die swell and the output diameter fluctuates between 0.6mm and 1.1mm.  Really weird stuff.  Maybe there is a connection between these two things.  Maybe there is a flow limit that causes die swell when over air and causes blobbing during a print.  I attached a picture of the blobbing.  I was trying to print with perimeters set to 100 mm/s (which is fine with smaller nozzles)

I'd really love to know if anybody else hits some kind of flow limit as well.

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Re: E3D 0.6mm Nozzle Useless

ne14pez wrote:

I tried a range of temps between 125 and 150

Degrees C? Are you extruding jelly? I also doubt you are running the extruder motor at 300mm/sec. That would be a meter of filament every 3 seconds, and I would be very impressed.

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Re: E3D 0.6mm Nozzle Useless

ne14pez wrote:

I tried a range of temps between 125 and 150 with the same results.  Also, extruding into the air also has a limit around 250-300mm/s (extruder motor) where the output starts having some serious die swell and the output diameter fluctuates between 0.6mm and 1.1mm.  Really weird stuff.  Maybe there is a connection between these two things.  Maybe there is a flow limit that causes die swell when over air and causes blobbing .

Your infill looks fine since you're accel limited on those paths. I would bet that you're either heat transfer limited, or reaching unstable flow in the nozzle (melt fracture). Those are also pretty tall layers for a 0.6mm nozzle. (layer height < nozzle diameter *.8)

Anything over 20cumm/sec is pretty dang fast for FDM. I run 15cumm/sec (average, not peak) or so, and am pretty happy with that. (0.8mm nozzle, 0.4mm layers, 150mm/sec peak which is primarily accel limited)

7

Re: E3D 0.6mm Nozzle Useless

I meant 225 - 250 C.  Whoops!

8

Re: E3D 0.6mm Nozzle Useless

elmoret wrote:

Degrees C? Are you extruding jelly? I also doubt you are running the extruder motor at 300mm/sec. That would be a meter of filament every 3 seconds, and I would be very impressed.

300 mm/sec does sound ridiculous now that I think about it.  So my units are off, but the setting in Repetier Host that lets you change the manual extrusion speed is what I am talking about.  If I extrude over air, it works fine until around 300.

9

Re: E3D 0.6mm Nozzle Useless

ne14pez wrote:
elmoret wrote:

Degrees C? Are you extruding jelly? I also doubt you are running the extruder motor at 300mm/sec. That would be a meter of filament every 3 seconds, and I would be very impressed.

300 mm/sec does sound ridiculous now that I think about it.  So my units are off, but the setting in Repetier Host that lets you change the manual extrusion speed is what I am talking about.  If I extrude over air, it works fine until around 300.

I  believe repetier says mm/min

Also, Elmoret's quote on math being inconvenient is great. Moreover, what he pointed out.

10

Re: E3D 0.6mm Nozzle Useless

perhaps you need to switch to 3mm filament... this is the only case i know where a 3mm filament is better than a 1.75mm..

11

Re: E3D 0.6mm Nozzle Useless

I think your layer height is too big as well.  Typically the maximum layer height you should run is 80% of your nozzle diameter which would be 0.48 but at high speed I would lower it to get a little more squish.

12 (edited by Tomek 2014-06-25 13:46:24)

Re: E3D 0.6mm Nozzle Useless

ysb wrote:

perhaps you need to switch to 3mm filament... this is the only case i know where a 3mm filament is better than a 1.75mm..

Is there any case where 3mm filament is better? more moire, and more resistance per cc of plastic squished out.  The resistance going from Xmm filament to Xmm nozzle diameter is not linear, it's some exponent, so it's easy to put through the 4 times more needed 1.75mm than 3mm filament.

The only case I see for 3mm filament is if you can get it cheaper, if it absorbs less water (smaller surface area to volume ratio), or if your thinner filament has relatively more diameter variance.

13

Re: E3D 0.6mm Nozzle Useless

I am running everything at .4mm layer height and 0.7mm width for now.  I tried it at 100mm/s to see if I could run faster because of the lower layer height, but it just started blobbing again.  Back down at 80 mm/s and it worked fine.  Pictures attached.

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14

Re: E3D 0.6mm Nozzle Useless

You try setting all or your widths to auto?

15

Re: E3D 0.6mm Nozzle Useless

When the widths are set to auto, it does seem to product a better print.  But the numbers seem funny.  The widths are all in the range of .60 to .65 mm and the first layer width is .52 mm.  That seems a little narrow for a .6 mm nozzle, doesn't it?

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Re: E3D 0.6mm Nozzle Useless

Have a read of http://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math

It will outline, with fairly explanatory pictures, the Maths Slic3r uses for flow rates

17

Re: E3D 0.6mm Nozzle Useless

The first layer would be affected by your Z height calibration?. I assume you could lessen the gap to make up for the first layer width.

Unless you have something else strange going on?

18

Re: E3D 0.6mm Nozzle Useless

My prints are coming out good when I keep the speed at 80 mm/sec.  Does anybody else reading this have a 0.6mm nozzle?  If so, and you have time to experiment, try running it at .4mm layer height and increasing the speed (perimeters, infill, etc.) to greater than 80mm/sec and see if it works.  If other people can go higher, then there's something wrong with my setup.  If not, then it's an inherent limitation to the extruder.

19 (edited by adrian 2014-07-02 07:52:43)

Re: E3D 0.6mm Nozzle Useless

Question - On what basis are you determining you are using 80mm/s ?
The setting in Slic3r's Speed tab (assuming you set them ALL to 80mm/s - which you shouldn't....)?
Or is it the Slider in Repetier?
Or have you run this through gcode-analyzer and determined the tool-path speeds and applied the Vector to it ?

Because its impossible to make a statement of 'I print at X-speedmm/s'.. as the 'print speed' changes depending on if its Interior perimeter, exterior perimeter, infill, top/bottom, first layer, bridge..

It also depends on tool-path length for that travel. At each transition of direction it will slow down to the 'x-y jerk' value (with caveats, too many to list here). It will then ramp back up to its relevant tool-path speed using the acceleration vectors in EEPROM.. It also depends on Direction - a movement in the Y direction alone will move faster than a Diagonal movement in the X/Y direction.. This is why often 0° offset rectilinear infill can be 4-5 times faster than hexagonal or even 45° offset rectilinear....

So in short - there really is no such thing as 'I print at X speed' - and if you actually average it all out its usually much slower than the numbers would infer due to complexity of movement screwing it all up. 

Now - regarding printing with a .6mm nozzle in general - You are moving a crapload (I believe thats the scientific term wink ) more volume of plastic than a .2/.3/.4mm .. Elmoret or someone smarter than me can give you the math I'm sure. You can't just expect to move a substantially increased volume of plastic at a faster physical speed - but instead you move more plastic for the same given speed which means you need to overall extrude less.  So you don't run it 'faster' in terms of linear speed - as you are already moving *more* plastic which is where the idea that you can print 'faster' with a .6mm nozzle comes from. Your axis dont move faster, but for each movement, you do move more plastic, requiring less *total* time... by exploiting techniques of printing 1x60mm perimeter which is faster than printing 2 x 40mm perimeters..etc etc

Then theres the whole other thing regarding the different back-pressure and its impact to flow-rate/speeds as a result in the change of nozzle size with a constant melt-zone... but that's beyond my ability to articulate.

To ensure quality prints on a Stock solidoodle (meaning the mechanics, not the hot end so much) you really shouldn't run the exterior perimeters over 55 - you can push it based on the particular shapes geometry but it's a loosing game above that. Internal perimeters, happily will go up to 80+ (even 100) without turning too ugly... Infill is usually best served at the same speed as interior. Bridges boil down to a magical combination of temperature and filament.. There is values that 'usually work' but the 'Best' speed/temp combo is fairly dynamic depending on filament etc.. And none of this needs to/should change based on Nozzle size beyond some minor tweakage knowing the cause-and-effect of that setting you tweak.

tl;dr - Theres no such thing as 'I print at X-speed' , and, you print 'faster' with bigger nozzles by virtue of moving more plastic, not physically increasing speed.

20

Re: E3D 0.6mm Nozzle Useless

Very well stated Adrian... Sounds to me you have great ability to "articulate" wink

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

21

Re: E3D 0.6mm Nozzle Useless

Yes, thank you for articulating this.  I've attached my Repetier speed settings.  It seems though that if I raise any of them over 80, whether it's perimeters, infill, or whatever, I get blobbing.

It is true that I am extruding a "crapload" more plastic than with a smaller nozzle, and I am quite happy that I am able to print faster.  No complaints there.  But my main point is that there is really no benefit to using a 0.6 mm nozzle over a 0.5 mm nozzle if you just have to run slower.  I would rather have the ability to get better detail when I want it while still being able to push the maximum volume of plastic when I want that.  In hindsight, I would have ordered a 0.5mm nozzle to get the best balance of both worlds.  Hopefully someone else who is dreaming of super fast printing by using a bigger nozzle can learn from my experience (that is assuming I am not doing something else horribly wrong).

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22

Re: E3D 0.6mm Nozzle Useless

Many mods later and probably way to much money wink I can reliably print with numbers higher than what you have there with a .6 nozzle.  That being said, it took countless hours of tweaking and near perfect calibration.  If so much as one thing is slightly off than it shows in the finishid product.  Instead of focusing on how fast you can make things move on your printer.  Shift your focus to more efficient slices of your prints.  That's where the real time savings is. 
Think about printing a solid wall that is 1.2 mm's thick.  With a .4 nozzle it takes three passes and with a .6 nozzle only 2 passes.  Of course this assumes the extrusion width is set at .4 and .6 respectively. 
If you are getting blobs in your prints take a look at your retraction speed and distance.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

23 (edited by ne14pez 2014-07-03 16:05:17)

Re: E3D 0.6mm Nozzle Useless

wardjr wrote:

If you are getting blobs in your prints take a look at your retraction speed and distance.

It's not the kind of blobs related to retraction (look at the pic I posted above).  It can't extrude smoothly over a certain volume limit, even during a straight section.  I'm not talking about a decrease in quality.  This is an inability to print anything.

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Re: E3D 0.6mm Nozzle Useless

Was this figured out. I can't seem to get consitant layers with my .6 nozzle. I have changed my printer settings to a .6 nozzle and been trying to play with flow rates and extrusion multipliers

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

25

Re: E3D 0.6mm Nozzle Useless

The flow rate and extrusion multiplier are calculated the same way as with any nozzle.  If you are calibrating the extrusion multiplier by printing a single walled object, just make sure to set the extrusion width to something greater than .6mm.

As I mentioned before, the 0.6mm nozzle is working well for me as long as I limit the speed in Repetier to about 80 mm/s for all types of movement.  I am quite satisfied with the results.  I am not going to switch to a .5mm nozzle because it is working fine and I am still pushing a high volume of plastic.  Also, there is some advantage to the fact that the carriage doesn't move as fast.  Namely, less wear and tear on motors, bearings, etc., motor drivers stay cooler, quieter operation, less problems due to acceleration.  I guess I shouldn't have called it "useless", but I was just frustrated with the fact that I hit a limitation that was unexpected.