1

Topic: My first week with the Solidoodle 3

Newb here.  Loving the great information on this forum.

I have had my S3 for about two days less than a week and thought I'd share my impressions.  Out of the box the bed was way off level (a common issue I hear) and the z-stop put the print head about 5mm off the bed.  I switched to a mirror glass print bed as soon as I was comfortable with the basics.  The mirrors I purchased are only 2mm thick and tended to warp when clamped onto the aluminum bed.  Luckily I have some decorative glass squares that just happen to be 8" square and a quarter of an inch thick with a little texture on each side.  These, paired with hairspray, make a pretty nice surface to print on...very level and sticky.  Mostly I have been printing some of the standard improvements to the machine, extruder fan assembly, filament guide, enclosure hinges, cable chain and belt guard.   My first go with the belt guard failed about halfway through when it popped off the print surface (luckily I can still use the portion that survived). I am printing it again as I type this post, this time with a raft and it has yet to peel up.  Printing at 110 bed and 195 extruder with enclosure and no fan (ABS) and it is looking pretty darn good. 

I tried the ABS/acetone slurry-glue on the print bed for a couple of days, it seemed to work ok but it is a pain to clean and is not 100% reliable. I hate printing on the Kapton only because I know I am going to ruin it eventually and don't want to shell out for the expensive maintenance.  Hairspray on thick glass for the win!


A few notes about the cable chain...

thingiverse thing:104817

if you try to tackle this one, be prepared to splice an extension on some of your wires as the cable chain removes a lot of slack.  I also noticed the cable chain had a distinct bowing when assembled, which I am guessing is due to a slight curvature in each link that is more pronounced when all of them are connected.  I think it is due to uneven cooling as I did these with the extruder fan turned on.  The S3 required 29 links of chain, you might get away with fewer, but that seemed to be the least I need to print to get the full extension. Regardless this one is well worth it due to the interference of the cable with the y belt and carriage, this did a ton to improve my performance   

I am noticing that even with a 8x8x8 print area, you may not really be able to print all the way out to the edges, giving you an effective x/y of slightly less than 8x8. 


So now for some newb questions:


my .4mm prints seem to come out the most smooth, but I have yet to do a large .1mm print, but even .3mm seems to not look as nice as .4mm...this is obviously counter intuitive.  Any ideas?


My Y bar (horizontal at back of unit) has a little side to side play in it.  I tried to calibrate per solidoodle vimeo instructions and the bar seems to just do what it wants.  The slop is negligible but visible.  Is this something I should work to eliminate?  Any suggestions if so?


Some posts seem to recommend a top cover for the case, others do not.  I have the whole unit with plexiglass walls right now top, sides, and door.  Is there a definitive rule of thumb here?  ( I may have just answered my own question, the tall belt guard just finished printing and I had to remove the top cover so that the print did not ram into it when the bed goes to home at the end of the print, perhaps that can be solved with G Code?)

I have included the M0 command in my end G Code to turn off the motors and heated bed.  This does not seem to do either.  Am I missing something?

I am sure I will have more to ask, but that is probably enough for now.  Hopefully I'll be the one answering newb questions in a few months!

Thanks in advance!

2

Re: My first week with the Solidoodle 3

M0 is stop. It does not disable the motors and has nothing to do with the heaters. Use M104 and M109 to set the temperature to zero. Also, in repetier, you can set a final park position and let the motors stay on.

You have done a good job getting the physical accessories put together, but you have not mentioned any calibrations. This is more important than anything. You need to calibrate the extruder steps/mm, and then flow rate in order to get things adequate for 0.3mm prints. Then you need your circle adjustment.

I personally think these calibrations are understated from the forums and the website, where I consider them required (unless you like throwing away bad prints all day).

Chuck Bittner is a quadriplegic gamer who is petitioning the major console developers to include internal button remapping in all console games. You can help.
Sign Chuck Bittners petition

3

Re: My first week with the Solidoodle 3

Isn't 0.1 the best printout? I haven't tried 0.3 or 0.4 yet. It seems like 0.4 wouldn't be as smooth as 0.1

Hardware: SD3, Octoprint, Raspberry Pi
Software: Cura and ViaCad

4

Re: My first week with the Solidoodle 3

I am referring to how even the layers are.  Yes the resolution is higher at .3mm but the layers don't seem to look as nicely stacked as they do at .4mm .  As Hazer stated it is probably due to calibration.   Will look at that tonight...

5

Re: My first week with the Solidoodle 3

you can think of it like laying out a garden hose when you extrude. It starts out round as it comes out of the nozzle and then depending on how far away you are from the layer below the nozzle, it will get squashed and flatten out a bit. The nozzle is 0.35mm in diameter, so you are trying to extrude a 0.35mm round tube of plastic.

As the layer height gets smaller and smaller, the layers have to get more and more squished together. if you squish them too much, then you are going to reach a point where the sides of the tube of plastic you are extruding are stretched too much and start to become uneven instead of a nice smooth wall.

I think the general wisdom is that you want the ratio of nozzle diameter to height to be about 1.4. That means for a 0.35mm  nozzle diameter a layer height of 0.25mm is about right. Otherwise you are just shuishing the plastic too much and you cant really control it very well.

That being said, people can do some tricks like slowing down extrusion rate or playing with temperature to get smaller and smaller layer heights, but at the end of the day, you are still extruding a 0.35mm circle. If you really want smaller layer thicknesses then you really need a smaller nozzle diameter. Of course, that means longer print times and easier clogs...

Another thing to think about is to make the layer thickness an even multiple of the number of steps on your stepper motor. For the leadscrew the solidoodle ships with, it is 2267.72 steps/mm (based on the pitch of the screw and 1/16 microstepping driver and 1.8deg/step motor). This means if you set a layer thickness of 0.3mm, you need to take 680.316 1/16th microsteps per layer... you cant take a partial step so it will round up and down as needed. That means at some point (every 3 layers or so in this example) it will need to take an extra step to make up for the rounding errors and you will wind up with a slight banding pattern. you can fix this by changing the layer thickness to an even multiple of the steps/mm.

layer height              0.3                   0.2                   0.15                  0.1
optimal layer height  0.2998607       0.2002011       0.1499303       0.1001005

sorry if that is more than you asked... I am an engineer and I tend to like this kind of stuff! smile

6

Re: My first week with the Solidoodle 3

Not at all, I definitely appreciate it!
 
My formal education is in science but now I am a technical artist so the "nitty gritty" is where I thrive.  There are so many variables to tweak with this printer and good guidelines are really the only way to reduce the inevitable trial and error.

Thanks!

7

Re: My first week with the Solidoodle 3

That is part of the fun to me... I like tweaking the hardware and software as long as I see improvements.

8

Re: My first week with the Solidoodle 3

downeym wrote:

....The nozzle is 0.35mm in diameter, ....


beware with this.. last version of solidoodle use a 0.4mm nozzle instead of the older 0.35mm...

9

Re: My first week with the Solidoodle 3

ah... good to know...

10

Re: My first week with the Solidoodle 3

So how would you tell what diameter you have? Extrude some plastic into space and measure the diameter with calipers, perhaps?

11

Re: My first week with the Solidoodle 3

Claghorn wrote:

So how would you tell what diameter you have? Extrude some plastic into space and measure the diameter with calipers, perhaps?

that might give you a rough idea, yes. just beware that the plastic "rebounds" a bit after it passes through the nozzle. so it might not be exactly .35/.4 etc

12

Re: My first week with the Solidoodle 3

Claghorn wrote:

So how would you tell what diameter you have? Extrude some plastic into space and measure the diameter with calipers, perhaps?


If you got your printer May 2013 or later then it probably wink has the .40 nozzle, SD made mention of the change on about the 21st of April 2013

Otherwise the best way to check would be get some test wire of the appropriate sizes and see what fits.

13

Re: My first week with the Solidoodle 3

alright, so this is maybe something that i missed, but what should your bead width be set to? where does the 1.4 ratio come into play? i though it was 1.4 times the layer height for with width, is it actually to do with the nozzle diameter? through setup on soliwiki the nozzle diameter never came up...

14

Re: My first week with the Solidoodle 3

the 1.4 number is not a hard and fast rule.. in fact, I don't even remember where I first read it, but my experience has been that it seems to be a good guideline.

The 1.4 ratio is just a guideline that says you can only squash the bead so much before it start looking sloppy. In other words, why cant you use a 0.4mm diameter nozzle to print in 0.01mm layer heights? You can, but the layers are so squashed, you are no longer layout out a uniform and controllable bead anymore.

Its just saying that for a 0.4mm nozzle, the optimal layer height would be 0.4mm/1.4=0.29mm. This is why you see so many things printed with 0.3mm layer heights. you can go smaller, but with diminishing returns.

15

Re: My first week with the Solidoodle 3

ok, that makes sense, i have my widths set to 140% of all my layer heights for differing resolutions. So this is incorrect? should i be using the same width from .4 to .1 layer heights? or do experienced users even really use .1mm settings anymore? seeing as .3 is technically the optimal?

16

Re: My first week with the Solidoodle 3

I would just let Slic3r handle the extrusion width automatically.. just make sure the nozzle diameter is set correctly for your setup. It will do the math for you.

As far as layer thicknesses go, I am not saying that less than 0.3mm is worse... its just harder. printing at 0.3mm is relatlive easy and you dont have to worry too much about your settings. Trying to get smaller slices means you really have to start optimizing temperature, speed, cooling and a bunch of other things to get really nice prints.

Thats always the challenge, right? how small and how much detail can I get? People are printing at 0.1mm with the larger nozzles. Many look REALLY good. I personally find that printing ABS at 0.3mm with acetone vapor smoothing looks just as good as if I did it at 0.1mm and its a lot easier and faster.

There is no 1 correct answer. Please dont misunderstand me.

Post's attachments

extruder.jpg
extruder.jpg 109.21 kb, file has never been downloaded. 

You don't have the permssions to download the attachments of this post.

17

Re: My first week with the Solidoodle 3

ysb wrote:
downeym wrote:

....The nozzle is 0.35mm in diameter, ....


beware with this.. last version of solidoodle use a 0.4mm nozzle instead of the older 0.35mm...


At what serial number did this switch occur? I just bought mine a week ago, so im guessing i have a .4mm nozzle? would have been nice to know since they still advertise .35mm on the website under the solidoodle 3....

anyone else with a new solidoodle confirm this?

18

Re: My first week with the Solidoodle 3

Yup/ Anything in the past 4 months is definitely 0.4mm .

Chuck Bittner is a quadriplegic gamer who is petitioning the major console developers to include internal button remapping in all console games. You can help.
Sign Chuck Bittners petition

19

Re: My first week with the Solidoodle 3

Hazer wrote:

Yup/ Anything in the past 4 months is definitely 0.4mm .

Thanks Hazer.

20

Re: My first week with the Solidoodle 3

diyengineer wrote:
ysb wrote:
downeym wrote:

....The nozzle is 0.35mm in diameter, ....


beware with this.. last version of solidoodle use a 0.4mm nozzle instead of the older 0.35mm...


At what serial number did this switch occur? I just bought mine a week ago, so im guessing i have a .4mm nozzle? would have been nice to know since they still advertise .35mm on the website under the solidoodle 3....

anyone else with a new solidoodle confirm this?

Fixed.

Former Solidoodle employee, no longer associated with the company.