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Topic: What am I doing wrong?

Good evening/morning guys!

I am trying to print a rather large ambitious part and seem to be having all kinds of difficulty with the print.

You can see the part that I am trying to print in the attached file... both the printed piece and the render.

Details:

* Glass on Build Plate (with kapton tape on it)
*Extruder temp: 198
*Bed Temp: 97
*Using Aquanet Hairspray

4 layer bottom and top and 4 perimeter
5% infill
No support (this print)

Ok... so it looks as if my print was going along just find for the first 120 of 300 layers... When it reached the inset pocket (A), it looks as if it balled up in few places and actually burnt/browned the ABS... I am "guessing" that this error... is what threw off the print and caused the 1/8" shift in the print that you can see at (B)

What might I have setup incorrectly that would cause this to happen?  Even for a small pocket like this, should I have used support? And would that have helped any?

Also... on the left front corner, I was starting to get some lifting/curling.  I could have sworn I put down quite a bit of hairspray... but it still pulled loose... Using a 1.5mm brim.... Should I be using more to keep it from pulling up?????

Also... this print was to be about 7hrs and 40mins to print and consume about 38766mm of filament...  with prints like this, having a failure ends up being a huge waste of time and materials... So I really would like your help tracking down the issue.... Small parts don't seem to be a issue much... but these big pieces are being a huge pain....

Likewise too... one last question... (and no flames please) but does anyone else feel that the S3 is slow?  I am an educator and we have a Makerbot 2 and it seems to fly compared to my at home S3... I know there are downfalls with speed printing... and that the Makerbot is just using PLA.... but how do you tune in more speed in prints?  If any???

Lotta questions I know... but I REALLY do appreciate the feedback on any of them....

Thanks guys!

Matt

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Re: What am I doing wrong?

I am bo no means an expert, but here are the things I see:

Honeycomb is bad for convex shapes (as in supporting top layers) and adding to that the 5% infill, you basically created a situation where there was bound to be a hiccup. Once there is a hiccup, then comes the other problem: If you bed level scrws are out too far, you are more prone to print shifts like this. You should level your bed by first tightening the screws till the heatmat is almost touching the bed frame, this reduces the amount of wiggle the leveling screws have for sideways movement.

I understand you want to reduce material by using such a low infill, and you can probably keep that low infill, but you will need to make internal supports for the overhangs in your model to avoid such long massive bridging. Or an extruder fan may be able to help with that instead.

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3

Re: What am I doing wrong?

cujo3131 wrote:

Good evening/morning guys!

I am trying to print a rather large ambitious part and seem to be having all kinds of difficulty with the print.

You can see the part that I am trying to print in the attached file... both the printed piece and the render.

Details:

* Glass on Build Plate (with kapton tape on it)
*Extruder temp: 198
*Bed Temp: 97
*Using Aquanet Hairspray

4 layer bottom and top and 4 perimeter
5% infill
No support (this print)

Ok... so it looks as if my print was going along just find for the first 120 of 300 layers... When it reached the inset pocket (A), it looks as if it balled up in few places and actually burnt/browned the ABS... I am "guessing" that this error... is what threw off the print and caused the 1/8" shift in the print that you can see at (B)

What might I have setup incorrectly that would cause this to happen?  Even for a small pocket like this, should I have used support? And would that have helped any?

Also... on the left front corner, I was starting to get some lifting/curling.  I could have sworn I put down quite a bit of hairspray... but it still pulled loose... Using a 1.5mm brim.... Should I be using more to keep it from pulling up?????

Also... this print was to be about 7hrs and 40mins to print and consume about 38766mm of filament...  with prints like this, having a failure ends up being a huge waste of time and materials... So I really would like your help tracking down the issue.... Small parts don't seem to be a issue much... but these big pieces are being a huge pain....

Likewise too... one last question... (and no flames please) but does anyone else feel that the S3 is slow?  I am an educator and we have a Makerbot 2 and it seems to fly compared to my at home S3... I know there are downfalls with speed printing... and that the Makerbot is just using PLA.... but how do you tune in more speed in prints?  If any???

Lotta questions I know... but I REALLY do appreciate the feedback on any of them....

Thanks guys!

Matt

Hey Matt,

Starting with the biggest issues - Y axis shift. There are tons of posts on here dealing with that issue. I encourage you to search to get the complete list of fixes but here is a quick list of things to check.

  • Stepper Drivers Overheating - Add Fan to electronic

  • Filament Snagged - Check reel for feed issues

  • Belt Tension Uneven - Redo belt alignment/calibration

  • Stepper Over Heating - This is usually only a problem with X axis. Add Fan

For the over hang, That should print fine. No issues at all with that.

The burnt spots I would image are either from charred plastic stuck to the bottom of your hotend or from the print head freezing in place. The latter usually being from you computer hanging during a print causing communications to stop for a second or 2. Not a big deal unless you really want a perfect model.

Print Curling can be tricky to get rid of. The only thing that I can say is that it gets better. The more seasoned your glass gets the nicer everything holds. My lifting problems are a faint memory at this point. More hair spray is fine as long as it has dried. A wet pool of hair spray on the bed won't help with adhesion.


Print speed can be adjusted in the manual tab of RH. That is the FeedRate %. There are other places that you can adjust speeds but this is the best place until you get a feel for you machines limits. The solidoodle can be pushed pretty fast but you might need to do a few mods to get there. Myself and others here regularly print at >100mm/s.

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

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Re: What am I doing wrong?

check the wires where they hook into the control board. ive also heard of a failing powersupply causing a similar offset problem. defiantly print a fan shroud for the electrics and add a fan or 2, if not for anything other than to extend the life of your printerboard.

make sure the computer you use to run the printer is dedicated, and has stuff like windows update turned off and ANYTHING that can create popups or otherwise take focus away from a program or USB buss uninstalled!

as for sticking, take that kapton off, all you need is hairspary on glass. if that doesnt solve it try other brands of hairspray, or ABS slurry, or even watered down elmers white glue painted on. some combination of factors will work for you. also, try to tweak settings so that your prints take as little time as necessary.

put your print speed up at 100 to 150 (adjust the other speeds to suit, try to keep the existing ratios for best results) and print calibration cubes to readjust your flow rate at the increased speed, if you want to print faster.