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Topic: Delamination w/ABS on a SD3 - what to do?

I'm seeing layers separating on my part, even areas that are nice thick solids. I run the extruder at 195C, bed at 85C. No fan (yet). Covers on and closed. What am I doing wrong?

Robox printer, HICTOP (Prusa i3 variant) Model 3DP17 printer, ELEK 2.5W laser engraver, AutoDesk 123D Design, Windows 10

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Re: Delamination w/ABS on a SD3 - what to do?

Is it a tall part, or wide?  More solid, thicker areas are actually more challenging because there is more plastic shrinking, creating more warping force.   I heat the build area of my printer with this space heater - http://www.amazon.com/Lasko-100-MyHeat- … ace+heater

It's only about 7" tall, and I point it into a bit of 3" duct leading into a case I made.  If I have a print that I think is going to be a challenge due to being tall, or wide and flat, I'll run the heater for a few minutes before the print to warm up the air and inside surfaces.  It gets to about 45C inside, which seems to be enough to prevent most problems.  Make sure the air doesn't blow directly on the print, because moving air at 70C is still a cooling breeze

http://thingiverse-production.s3.amazonaws.com/assets/c4/b5/be/e7/89/IMG_5910.JPG

http://thingiverse-production.s3.amazonaws.com/assets/7a/f3/f2/7d/0a/IMG_5913.JPG

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34754

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Re: Delamination w/ABS on a SD3 - what to do?

I find that lately the same print and filament produce perfect prints one day and fuzzy messes with nothing adhering at all the next day, depending on humidity.

4 (edited by Heartlander 2013-07-15 17:54:34)

Re: Delamination w/ABS on a SD3 - what to do?

Nice work Ian. Do you think something like this would work too, a small heat lamp? Radiant heat instead of heated air?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/public/bXD_w0M55aQqtT_QINqQ58p_6i4llYMTTI2kTpvXANkn7_znmyha3twGbUqzhAqZ17VUJiMmUcKJOpYBOnSO8Y9ayq0_k11WgNc7xQip7qe-R5PiGyG5RsM0K0IZE2a31NUt8cc6VjQ=s220-c

Robox printer, HICTOP (Prusa i3 variant) Model 3DP17 printer, ELEK 2.5W laser engraver, AutoDesk 123D Design, Windows 10

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Re: Delamination w/ABS on a SD3 - what to do?

I tried that once and nearly melted my extruder.  The lamp needs to be pointed at something, which will probably get too hot.   If you can find a way to aim it at the build plate and print without also hitting any of the printed components it might work.  The air is more indirect and even. It comes in at about 70c and spreads out, averaging down to 45-50.   If you want an alternative, I think a better one would be something like a heat pad in the bottom if the case with a gentle fan blowing over it.

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Re: Delamination w/ABS on a SD3 - what to do?

Give it a try. Might want to make sure you watch it closely for a while. As they show in their final test... things can melt if you don't pay attention. (IDK what they were doing using a thermometer that only went up to 120F)

http://www.reptileuvinfo.com/html/watts … utput.html

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

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Re: Delamination w/ABS on a SD3 - what to do?

Roger all that. Thanks, fellas.

Robox printer, HICTOP (Prusa i3 variant) Model 3DP17 printer, ELEK 2.5W laser engraver, AutoDesk 123D Design, Windows 10