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Topic: XYZ 1.0 PRINTER HEATED SURFACE REPLACEMENT CALIBRATION ISSUE

Ordered new heated surface from XYZ.  Tried for hours to calibrate.  The manual indicates to have the built in calibration come back between 200 and 250.  When I got that to happen, printing was horrible.  SOLUTION:  the metal strips on the new plate, to which the head touches for calibration, are twice as thick as the ones on the original plate.  (1.0 mm vs 0.50 mm).  That is why the printing was horrible when the numbers were right.  The head was calibrating to a surface 0.50 mm higher than the original.  Took the old strips from the original plate and put them on the new plate and recalibrated.  Perfect.

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Re: XYZ 1.0 PRINTER HEATED SURFACE REPLACEMENT CALIBRATION ISSUE

VINNYTHEDOG wrote:

Ordered new heated surface from XYZ.  Tried for hours to calibrate.  The manual indicates to have the built in calibration come back between 200 and 250.  When I got that to happen, printing was horrible.  SOLUTION:  the metal strips on the new plate, to which the head touches for calibration, are twice as thick as the ones on the original plate.  (1.0 mm vs 0.50 mm).  That is why the printing was horrible when the numbers were right.  The head was calibrating to a surface 0.50 mm higher than the original.  Took the old strips from the original plate and put them on the new plate and recalibrated.  Perfect.


I have a better suggestion. Forget about the built in method. It is known to be wrong as the values it wants are too large. Use the manual method that is a sticky ar the top of the XYZ section here in the forums.. it will save you much stress.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

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Re: XYZ 1.0 PRINTER HEATED SURFACE REPLACEMENT CALIBRATION ISSUE

That's exactly my point.  The numbers they want are based on a thinner calibration point, so when you use their number with the plate they supply, the space is huge.  It looks like it is just dropping the plastic from a height.  The number they supply should really be about 290 to 340, not the 200 to 250 they suggest.  The bigger the number, the closer the glass is to the extruder.  But, with the original metal calibration points that are thinner, the calibration directions work fine.  the printing is perfect with no warping in the corners, all the layers are uniform height, etc. 
I suspect that I had very early model run and at some point the metal on the heated surface edges was changed but the directions were never changed to match them.  So, it's no wonder the directions don't work.  When I was through, I checked with a 0.25 mm metal feeler and that is about the right distance.

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Re: XYZ 1.0 PRINTER HEATED SURFACE REPLACEMENT CALIBRATION ISSUE

.25 is fine if you only print at .3mm layers. But if you should print at .20 or less then that will be too high.

I use my manual method on al printers and use a .15 feeler gauge. That puts me where I need to be for most thicknesses.


The actual setting should be at most half of your desired layer height.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.