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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → auto-bed level
Does anyone just skip this all together? Seemed to work really well at first for our Workbench, but not so much now.
When it comes to Auto-level, take a page from the Davinci users and stop using it. Manual leveling is simple and removes a bunch of unnecessary variables.
+1 auto leveling is a huge pain. When is the last time I leveled my bed? I think it was a few months ago, if not longer.
Yea, I played with an auto level mod for my SD2 (which I got to work once :-), but I found that if I do a really good job of manually leveling, it stays that way for a long time.
You made one of the dial indicator mounts I used the last time I leveled my bed I think... Thanks! Super easy way to do it.
Agreed. You know what is harder than properly leveling your bed? Properly configuring an auto level probe, of any type. The solidoodle has a very rigid Z axis, so once you get it right it tends to stay that way.
The only way I could see myself using an auto level system is if someone finds a way to put it in the hot end mount, similar to the various kossel FSR mods, so that the nozzle is the bed probe. I tried for weeks to get the FSRs to work in my kossel before finally realizing that the tolerances and sensitivities are really not at the hobbyist level at this point. IMO, any system that uses a bed probe adds unnecessary complexity and is harder than manually leveling the bed. FSRs are not reliable/ repeatable enough. I'll revisit this in a couple years and see if something better has come along.
So in RH how do I set a home position for z without having to do it every time I quit outta RH and restart? I got rid of the auto level g-code but the home all axis' command is going to home the z and wait for a endstop right?
If you are referring to the Z offset function in slic3r, I don't use it. Just manually calibrate the nozzle distance from the bed and set it to 0. It annoys me when people post their Z offset number as if it is somehow relevant to others. When you are talking about fractions of a mm, it can vary for each machine.
If you are referring to the Z offset function in slic3r, I don't use it. Just manually calibrate the nozzle distance from the bed and set it to 0. It annoys me when people post their Z offset number as if it is somehow relevant to others. When you are talking about fractions of a mm, it can vary for each machine.
+1
No, I meant our start g-code homes the z axis, and won't stop until it hits an endstop, so if I have our Workbench probe up, then it'll just run into the carriage and lift it.
That probe is also the endstop. You need to relocate it with some way to adjust what hits the switch.
That probe is also the endstop. You need to relocate it with some way to adjust what hits the switch.
Ok, sorry, that is basically what I meant to ask. I think I'll be able mount it on the smooth rods along the z axis so that the top of the aluminum will hit it, and it'll be out of the way of the carriage.
Not as easy as I thought, after looking at it, all the wires are already routed with the extruders. Not an impossible task, but I'm not trying to have to undo then reorganize all the wiring to the carriage.
This is slightly off-topic, but related to bed-levelling. To properly level my bed, I have to loosen the screws such that there is almost no tension on the springs. What is the best way to set z0 to higher position?
I'm sorry, what printer do you have?
Sorry, it is a Solidoodle 4. Guess I need to edit my signature. Everything stock, took the kapton off.
So the three screws under the bed are used to level in relation to the nozzle. The springs should be as compressed as possible without the plate touching the frame. Then to set the Z height you use the knob on the back of the printer to raise or lower the screw that touches the Z- endstop switch. This is how you adjust the height of the bed at the Z- home position.
With everything I've been hearing, I wonder if it's even worth trying to figure out how to set up bed levelling on my kossel kit or if I should just forgo it altogether and just take the servo as a bonus.
With everything I've been hearing, I wonder if it's even worth trying to figure out how to set up bed levelling on my kossel kit or if I should just forgo it altogether and just take the servo as a bonus.
I tried to set mine up but ended up giving up. There was no information on how to get the firmware to remember and then adjust for the points probed and I could not find anything on the web as it is still an experimental option on Repetier firmware.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → auto-bed level
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