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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → XYZ Printing DaVinci → New extruder and nozzle, but stuck at 10 degrees C. No power to nozzle
I finally received the new extruder and nozzle assembly from XYZ. When replacing the old extruder with the new one, the fan didn't come on or the nozzle heat up (either on the screen or by touch.) replacing it with the old one, the fan came back on. Any thoughts??
If you are reading 10c at room temp then the thermistor, its wires, or its connector is damaged. It should read 20 to 30 at room temp. 23 is around 75F.
AAAARGH! I hope you are kidding (I know you aren't) but a bad thermistor wire was the reason I had to buy a new extruder as this joke of a company wouldn't cover their warranty for a four day old printer that stopped working. $100 plus shipping later and I am still in the same boat?
AAAARGH! I hope you are kidding (I know you aren't) but a bad thermistor wire was the reason I had to buy a new extruder as this joke of a company wouldn't cover their warranty for a four day old printer that stopped working. $100 plus shipping later and I am still in the same boat?
You could have just replaced that thermistor and saved that $100
I tried but couldn't find what was needed. Even asked an electrician at work.
I tried but couldn't find what was needed. Even asked an electrician at work.
It is a a actually just a standard 100k thermistor sold all over ebay. Just try to make sure it has sleeves over the wires or better already mounted to a harness. Just dont get the ones that have a metal cover over the probe. They wont fit in the hole. I actually used a B3 Pico spare thermistor I picked up at Microcenter.
i had kind of same issue the temp reading was 25c
after some testing with a multimeters i found one of the fuse the give 12v to the extruder in the main board was burn . i just jump the wires and took the main 12v from the power supply directly to the extruder cable and my printer is just working fine
Wenetnio, do you have a picture of your fix available?
Tried talking to XYZ about this and they wanted a screenshot of their own order for the part. It seems to be there standard stall tactic.
As for the 100k thermistors sold on EBay, are there any other variables or features I need to know? I see stuff about certain % stable, etc. all your help is definitely appreciated.
Wenetnio, do you have a picture of your fix available?
Tried talking to XYZ about this and they wanted a screenshot of their own order for the part. It seems to be there standard stall tactic.
If you are only reading 10c then you are stuck in undertemp which is a failsafe limit in the firmware. It is usually set to 20c and is there as a safegurd to not allow the heater to get power because that low of a reading assumes the thermistor is open and not working. If it did allow the heater to energize in this condition the unit would heat till it melted down most likely causing a fire.
As long as you are in undertemp mode and not measuring correct room temp then the unit will not allow power to be applied to the heater.
i had kind of same issue the temp reading was 25c
after some testing with a multimeters i found one of the fuse the give 12v to the extruder in the main board was burn . i just jump the wires and took the main 12v from the power supply directly to the extruder cable and my printer is just working fine
I hope you have a fuse installed since you jumped the fuse resistor. If not you run the risk of shorting the entire board if something like that happens again.
Carl, how do I fix the issue with the firmware as you described above?
This is not a firmware problem if you are running xyz software. You either have a bad thermistor or your motherboard has a short. Why dont you check the connection of your thermistor to the small pcb board in the extruder. It is on the side of the extruder. There are two small plugs, one is the fan and the other is the thermistor plug. I would make sure they are secure first. If they are secure and you still are reading 10C try wiggling the thermistor wire to see if the temp changes at all. if the temp changes happen when you wiggle the thermistor wire then you have a bad wire that needs soldering. If you still have 10C after all these suggestions then you need to check your motherboard. Open the back of the case to access your motherboard. Power the printer up, dont touch the motherboard. you should have 3 led/lights on in the motherboard. if you don't see all 3 lights then you have a short in your motherboard.
Thank you for the advice. I did see three red lights last night when I peaked back there. I will try the thermostat wire wiggle tonight after work.
Carl, how do I fix the issue with the firmware as you described above?
The firmware is not the problem. It is working as it should. Again the problem is with the thermistor, it's wires, or connection.
Confirmed three red lights on motherboard. Wiggling the thermistor wires did not change temperature. Tried entering bootlog and resetting to factory default settings. All wiring connectors firmly seated Nothing has worked.
If you unplug the thermistor do you get any kind of machine state or temperature change?
Carl, nothing changes. I should add that everything I have tried is while trying to load or unload filament. No error messages. Screen still showed 10 degrees C.
Carl, nothing changes. I should add that everything I have tried is while trying to load or unload filament. No error messages. Screen still showed 10 degrees C.
So I would assume your current room temp is not 10c or 50f?
If you unplug it and there is no change then the machine is not showing the thermistor as being present and 10c is just the default open temp reading.
Do you have a multimeter or can you buy one frome home depot or lowes for 30 bucks that will measure resistance?
Facepalm.... Guys 10c means that the thermistor isn't working.... There is no such thing as a 0c temperature in xyz
So to answer the OPs question, the thermistor is broken.
Oh I forgot to add. The thermistor wire travels out the pcb board back to the motherboard. It is possible your wiring has a loose connection and you can only find this out by shaking the wire to see if temp changes. Sounds like you had this problem with your last extruder. So there is a good chance it's wiring that needs a repair.
Facepalm.... Guys 10c means that the thermistor isn't working.... There is no such thing as a 0c temperature in xyz
So to answer the OPs question, the thermistor is broken.
I know that and you know that. As you can see by all my post I am pointing to the thermistor or its wiring. OP just seems a little bummed that he still has the same issue.
My DaVinci 1.0A was stuck at 10c and after a while came up with an 0011 error.
After searching for possible causes I came across a site that showed a video of exactly what was causing my problem, a loose connector to the head.
Maybe this is causing your issue, the video is here :- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xyn6TOsemqI
I hope it is the same cause of your lack of nozzle heating.
Thanks, Ash. My latest update is that XYZ finally got back to me and is cooperating. Amazing what happens when you file a BBB claim and utilize social media. Here's what I've discovered:
1. I am supposed to use the extra wires that came with the new nozzle. Now before issuing a "DUH!" towards me, wait for point #3.
2. She asked if I followed the directions in installing the new nozzle which would tell me to use the new wires. I stated negative as there were no instructions with the parts. They forgot to include them.
3. Wait for it.............the two wires they sent me do NOT have the correct connectors to attach to the motherboard. The connectors work correctly at the nozzle, but not at the MB. I sent them pictures showing old wire, new wire and motherboard connection point. I have been asked to wait three business days while they figure it out as she says I have too new of aprinter and the wires are made for the older version.
So solder the new wire to the old wire plug. Just curious what was wrong with your old extruder?
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → XYZ Printing DaVinci → New extruder and nozzle, but stuck at 10 degrees C. No power to nozzle
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