First Print Result by Solidoodle 4 Very Strange

Welcome to the forum, and hope you enjoy learning about and getting to know your printer!

Good to hear you've levelled your bed - keep an eye on this.

Ok, lots of overextrusion there! First off you'll need to calibrate the extruder:

(1) Measure your actual filament diameter - while nominally 1.75mm, it can vary depending on the supplier and batch.
  (a) Measure at several locations along a few m of filament with digital calipers
  (b) Take an average of these results
  (c) Enter this value into "filament diameter" under slic3r's filament settings

(2) Calibrate extruder steps-per-mm
  (a) Mark the filament with a marker 100mm and 150mm from the top face of the extruder (use a ruler!)
  (b) Note down the extruder steps-per-mm from R-H eeprom settings (lets call this "E_old")
  (c) With the nozzle heated up to normal extrusion temperature (210C for the stock SD4 hot end will be fine), manually extrude 100mm into free air using the R-H control panel
  (d) Measure the distance from the top of the extruder to the 100mm or 150mm mark, to determine how much filament actually went into the printer - let's call this "L"
  (e) Calculate the new extruder steps per mm (let's call this "E_new") using the following formula
           E_new = E_old * 100mm / L
  (f) Enter the new steps-per-mm value into the R-H eeprom settings (1 decimal place is fine), and save
  (g) Repeat steps (a) to (d) to confirm the extruder now takes exactly 100mm, repeat calibration if necessary
Note that most users report a value of around 105 steps/mm for the solidoodle extruders, while the default is closer to 130.

(3) Set your default extrusion width to 0.48mm (this is the recommended value for a 0.4mm nozzle) in slic3r

(4) Run a PID autotune on your extruder heater

(5) Calibrate the wall thickness (single-wall cube) using the slic3r extrusion multiplier
  (a) Set your extrusion multiplier (under slic3r's filament settings) to 1 (let's call this "EM_old").
  (b) Print a 20mm cube, in slic3r adjust the following settings:
     * Number of perimters: 1
     * Infill % : 0
     * Number of bottom solid layers: 2
     * Number of top solid layers: 0
  (c) Using digital calipers, measure the thickness of all four walls, and take an average - let's call this "T".
  (d) Adjust the slic3r extrusion multiplier using the following formula:
           EM_new =  EM_old * 0.48mm / T
  (e) Print another cube, and confirm the wall thickness is now exactly 0.48mm.
Note that this value varies for users, most report a value between about 0.85 and 1.05.

Then I'd highly recommend (you can look these up further via google and this forum):

* Tightening and aligning your y-axis belts, including the motor drivebelt, to minimise backlash. There appears to be some distortion in the circle.

* Investigate using glass+hairspray (or glass + gluestick) as your build surface instead of kapton - this seems by most accounts to have much better adhesion than plain kapton (no matter how scrubbed or clean!).

* Buy and install a well nut to reduce backlash on your z-axis (these are very cheap and surprisingly effective!)

Very well done grob!!!
A couple of additions.
Layer heights need to be set as such.
.3 = .2963
.2 = .1976
.1 = .09878
I like to run my first layer height the same height as the rest.

You will also want to take a look at the extrusion widths in your slice profile > Print Settings > Advanced.
Any number that is .42 change to .48 with the exception of the first layer you will want to reduce that to somewhere around .24-.36.  This will create more tool paths on that first layer and promote adhesion.   Glass + Hairspray will greatly increase your odds of achieving good results.