Topic: Solidoodle 4 PETG Filament?
I read on the Things; "Not to do"on the Solidoodle Wiki, that the extruder could not go above 210C. Am I able to use PETG filament on my printer? I have eSUN PETG Filament.
1 2015-06-23 21:05:37 (edited by yellowcooln 2015-06-23 21:26:45)
- TheBaron
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Re: Solidoodle 4 PETG Filament?
The thing that's preventing you from printing above 210 is twofold:
The first is the hotend. To put it simply, the tip on your machine isn't made to go above 210 and if you get it up to the ~240 that PETG requires it will start to soften and melt. You can print PETG filament on a solidoodle, but you have to replace the hotend with an E3D or similar.
The other issue is the power supply. Depending on the power draw, even if you replace the hotend you might not have enough umph to get all the way up to 240. It's pretty easy to replace your current power supply with something a little more powerful, though.
So right now you probably do not want to try PETG because you might damage your machine. With a couple upgrades, though, you can do it no problem.
SD3 w/ RUMBA (8825s), merlin hot end (in pieces). Ender3 w/ silent board for PLA printing. Ender5 w/ silent board, e3d v6, new z lead screw, and glass bed. DiY Kossel w/ smoothieboard (in pieces). Vellman Vertex (in pieces)
Shapeoko2 router in process of being converted to laser engraver (in pieces)
Multicam 5000 series CNC Router w/ 11HP spindle, 5x10' table, and auto tool changer (in pieces)
Shapeoko2 router in process of being converted to laser engraver (in pieces)
Multicam 5000 series CNC Router w/ 11HP spindle, 5x10' table, and auto tool changer (in pieces)
Re: Solidoodle 4 PETG Filament?
TheBaron wrote:
The thing that's preventing you from printing above 210 is twofold:
The first is the hotend. To put it simply, the tip on your machine isn't made to go above 210 and if you get it up to the ~240 that PETG requires it will start to soften and melt. You can print PETG filament on a solidoodle, but you have to replace the hotend with an E3D or similar.
The other issue is the power supply. Depending on the power draw, even if you replace the hotend you might not have enough umph to get all the way up to 240. It's pretty easy to replace your current power supply with something a little more powerful, though.
So right now you probably do not want to try PETG because you might damage your machine. With a couple upgrades, though, you can do it no problem.
Thanks for the quick reply! I was thinking about the E3D hotend. If you don't mind me asking, What would you recommend for the Solidoodle 4 printer upgrades?
- TheBaron
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Re: Solidoodle 4 PETG Filament?
I have the SD3, so your mileage may vary, but the main upgrades I usually see on solidoodles are glass bed and hairspray for better adhesion, replacing the hotend and power supply for higher temps, and replacing the z screw with m5 threaded rod to remove issues with Z banding.
There are a lot of helpful people here on the forums who will have the right answers for turning your SD4 into a mean machine. And if you run into any problems, just keep posting and we'll keep helping!
SD3 w/ RUMBA (8825s), merlin hot end (in pieces). Ender3 w/ silent board for PLA printing. Ender5 w/ silent board, e3d v6, new z lead screw, and glass bed. DiY Kossel w/ smoothieboard (in pieces). Vellman Vertex (in pieces)
Shapeoko2 router in process of being converted to laser engraver (in pieces)
Multicam 5000 series CNC Router w/ 11HP spindle, 5x10' table, and auto tool changer (in pieces)
Shapeoko2 router in process of being converted to laser engraver (in pieces)
Multicam 5000 series CNC Router w/ 11HP spindle, 5x10' table, and auto tool changer (in pieces)
- AZERATE
- PRINTiT
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Re: Solidoodle 4 PETG Filament?
yellowcooln wrote:
What would you recommend for the Solidoodle 4 printer upgrades?
*E3D v6 all the way. You will thank yourself for the time, money, and effort!
*Direct Y drive line Claghorn designed.
*Glass and Aquanet. This is one of the easiest and cheapest upgrades.
*E3D Hobb Goblin which I discussed here .
*Vertically feed the filament. Instead of mounting the spool on the side or back, work something out so it feeds from the top.
Above all, be sure to print yourself replacement parts ASAP. You never know when you will need something like Lawsy's replacement carriages 
We are all here help, so do not hesitate to ask.
Keep in mind that most questions have been asked and answered. Use the Search tab at the top of the page and if you can't find the answers, ask away! 
Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!
- heartless
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Re: Solidoodle 4 PETG Filament?
yellowcooln wrote:
What would you recommend for the Solidoodle 4 printer upgrades?
Things I have done to my SD4...
~ Lawsy linear bearing carriages - about the best upgrade available for a smoother running, more accurate printer with fewer print issues (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:104059)
~ upgraded power supply (i used this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7C … ge_o01_s00)
~ Glass (or mirror) print bed for a flatter surface, with hairspray for better adhesion
~ E3D v6 hotend for more versatility in filament choices/printing temps
~ fan on X motor (mount: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:128526)
~ bed stabilizer (on front of bed) to reduce vibration/shaking of the print bed (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:195266)
~ new Y axis idler pulley brackets - my stock ones were cracked (poor print quality), creating all sorts of strange issues (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:79737)
~ if you are still running on the stock SD4 controller board, get an extra fan moving air on/around it to keep it cool - heat will kill it. (go ahead, ask me how I know, LOL) My SD4 now runs on a Rumba board, which I am very happy with.
unless you have a big problem now with Z banding, the Z screw mod can be put off by adding the stabilizer on the front of the bed to control vibration & shaking of the bed during printing... in fact, I would try this first, even with a Z banding issue, before attempting a Z screw modification to see if it helps any.
I can not speak to the direct Y drive setup as I have not found a need for it yet. taking the time to properly align and tension the belts has been enough for me, personally.
SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1