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Topic: Z axis switch? Firmware? Broken wire?

I ran a soliprint z axis calibration last week on my printer. Immediately after it started to grind the extruded into the glass. It will do the 9 points of calibration before as far as I can tell. I am using a stock extruded and repetier host as my primary program.
I have been reading the forum and noticed a firmware update, but am confused. Is it only run on ev3 end? Should I try to rerun z print calibration. Or look for a broken wire?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Anna

2

Re: Z axis switch? Firmware? Broken wire?

Has the printer been functioning properly before you did the calibration?

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3

Re: Z axis switch? Firmware? Broken wire?

Yes, It work okay before. I have adjusted the trim pots and am reading on wiring harness interference x switch... Could it interfer with z switch? I tried resetting the printer to the previous calibration, but it was still grinding extruded into glass. When I read the forums it sounded sort of like broken wire might be problem, but if I understand that problem correctly it is usually with the x axis not z axis. My problems sound similar to what selfless has been experiencing. I don'T know if I should be trying to find a broken wire first or trying to update firmware....

Anna

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Re: Z axis switch? Firmware? Broken wire?

I would make sure your Z-probe is extending fully prior to the auto-leveling sequence and then perform a Z-offset calibration:

http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … alibration

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5

Re: Z axis switch? Firmware? Broken wire?

I have been reading more on the forum, and my problem sounds very familiar to this to this one from kido2015-03-11 04:39:39

Hello! My first post here.
I realy hope someone can help me out here.
Got my Press a week ago and had all the troubles that every one else got.
I managed to calibrate and do my first print and it went OK.
Now when i try to calibrate the bed goes DOWN instead of UP to trigger the switch.
I can no longer calibrate, its like Z is inverted.
I have tried to uninstall soliprint, didn't work.
I tried M502 and then M500 and then calibrate, didn't work.
Please help!

It was the switch on the extruder that was broken, it never closed the circuit.

When I tested the trimpots and tried to find a broken wire last night, the platform lowered when the z+ arrow was hit in R.H. Is there a way to test to see if the extruder switch/circuit is broken? How do I replace this? I have already contacted solidoodle... but is there anything else I can do?

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Re: Z axis switch? Firmware? Broken wire?

To test the switches, you can send the command M119 in your RH Manual Control tab (where it says "G-Code")...make sure your "Toggle Log" is on so you can see the echoed results at the bottom of the RH screen.

With your Z probe extended and nothing touching it, enter the M119 command.  The result should read "Open".

Then, hold up the Z probe switch by hand as if to trigger it, and run the M119 command again...the echo should then read "Triggered"

If it reads open while being pressed manually, then you are close to finding the problem!

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7 (edited by annalenhartmurray 2015-06-16 16:49:53)

Re: Z axis switch? Firmware? Broken wire?

I just tried to run a z calibration test and the probe is not extending. Can I manually try to extend probe or is this when I should start to look for broken circuits and wires? or should I start to disassemble the extruder?

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Re: Z axis switch? Firmware? Broken wire?

I believe you need to home the X and Y axes first and this should extend the probe...then try the calibration test.

But have you checked the switches first...you should.

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9

Re: Z axis switch? Firmware? Broken wire?

I just manually extended the z probe and ran the m119 test. All three of the axes reported open.the z probe returned to the up position on it's own, but when running R.H. the z+ arrow sends the bed downward... Should I try the z-callibration again?

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Re: Z axis switch? Firmware? Broken wire?

Z probe reported "open" because it was not touching anything...can you hold the probe switch button in and enter the M119 command again?

As far as X and Y, were they not in the home position when you ran the M119?  If they were, then they should have read "triggered".

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11

Re: Z axis switch? Firmware? Broken wire?

This might seem like a really stupid question - I tried the g-code tab and entered the m119 code  on the first line. I then selected the start code and got the following results
g21 set mm units
g90 set absolute coordinates
g28 home x and y axes
g29 probe bed
g92 eo reset extrusion distance....
That doesn't change when I end code.

If I hit run job. the with z probe down I get x y and z open... am I doing something wrong?

12 (edited by IronMan 2015-06-17 09:29:56)

Re: Z axis switch? Firmware? Broken wire?

There are no stupid questions smile

You should be entering the M119 command here:

http://soliforum.com/i/?bO9Xegt.png

This has nothing to do with the start G-code...if you home X and Y, then press in the microswitch at the end of the Z probe; enter the M119 command and hit Send...then you should see the results in the lower pane.

If you are not homed correctly, the printer will not work...you need to make sure all endstops report "triggered" before doing anything else...

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13

Re: Z axis switch? Firmware? Broken wire?

I tried the m119 command again and never got a triggered on x,y, or z. So I decided to try a print.

I manually extended the z probe and the machine started to print again, but it still acting weird the bed is now very uneven. The printer will only work in parts of bed . I printed a small print and I thought everything would be okay so I tried to print something bigger. The prints are shown below.http://soliforum.com/i/?sPHil6G.jpg
I tried different sizes etc. at one point the bed temperature reAd over 200 degrees. I turned it off, let it rest and tried again to the uneven again. Could this be related to z probe issue?

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Re: Z axis switch? Firmware? Broken wire?

Couple things:

If you are able to run a print, this is a good thing...
Your bed is terribly not level to the extruder.

Q.  When you initiate a print, does the printer go through the 9 point leveling process?

200 degrees C is almost not attainable by the heat bed; are you sure that's not the extruder temp?

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15

Re: Z axis switch? Firmware? Broken wire?

1. yes,  the printer went through the 9 point leveling process. Do I need to manually adjust bed? I am using glass from hardware store held on with 2 binder clips at front of bed only. Could this be causing it to be so uneven?

2. No I am not sure. The bed temp was stuck on 88.3 for 3-5 minutes so I opened soliprint or RH I don't remember which... it said 200 so I immediately turn off printer and let cool down. I printed again after and it seemed to work. I don't think it was the extruder temp because it was turned off... but I cant ever be sure.

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Re: Z axis switch? Firmware? Broken wire?

annalenhartmurray wrote:

1. yes,  the printer went through the 9 point leveling process. Do I need to manually adjust bed? I am using glass from hardware store held on with 2 binder clips at front of bed only. Could this be causing it to be so uneven?

It can't be helping!  I thought the glass slid in like this:

http://soliforum.com/i/?xA8u1u3.png

annalenhartmurray wrote:

2. No I am not sure. The bed temp was stuck on 88.3 for 3-5 minutes so I opened soliprint or RH I don't remember which... it said 200 so I immediately turn off printer and let cool down. I printed again after and it seemed to work. I don't think it was the extruder temp because it was turned off... but I cant ever be sure.

Keep an eye on that for sure...Q. - if you just turn the printer power on without commanding the bed to heat up, does it start heating on its own?

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17

Re: Z axis switch? Firmware? Broken wire?

no it doesn't... The glass I get from the hardware store is thicker than the solidoodle glass. So I try to keep it in place using binder clips. I couldn't find the right thickness of glass locally. I tried picture frames, but they broke after one printing. Ace's glass is cheap and usually lasts several months. Is there a better way to secure glass to print bed?

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Re: Z axis switch? Firmware? Broken wire?

Ok...good to hear about the heater...still keep an eye on that.

The glass is best kept in the slot, close to the bed heater...which leads me to my next question: So if you are clamping the glass on top of the metal rails, then how is your heater contacting the bottom of the glass?

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19 (edited by annalenhartmurray 2015-06-17 22:07:03)

Re: Z axis switch? Firmware? Broken wire?

http://soliforum.com/i/?kplaMWF.jpgbut today I was running a print in both soliprint and R.H. and I was watching the extruder while it stopped printing. The actual filament wasn't printing. The gear was rocking back and forth. I thought I had tightened it yesterday. It looks a lot like the video in this discussion. 
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/10965/di … extrusion/

What is the vref? Will tightening the gear drive help? The z-calibration I ran seem to work well... but you saw what happened when I tried to print something after that.

I have reversed the fan on the extruder, adjusted the trim pots, moved the wires over with a rubber band.. etc...

I am printing with Push ABS plastic at 235 and bed at 100... I didn't have any problems until z probe started to go wonky

Should I try to post a video of the gear drive doing this?

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Re: Z axis switch? Firmware? Broken wire?

The vref and trimpots are the same thing...

You may have seen this already, but the extruder issue is discussed here:
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/9314/ini … -fix-them/

Double-check the set screw on the drive gear again, and yes, it does seem like your auto-leveling worked this time.  You may also want to run the Z-Offset calibration posted above.

And glad to see your glass is clamped onto the heater!

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21

Re: Z axis switch? Firmware? Broken wire?

Just for information, I noticed you comment that clicking on "Z+" in RH made the bed move downwards. This is the CORRECT behaviour. I know it's not very intuitive, but by lowering the bed, you are "effectively" raising the extruder... Confused me for a bit as well.

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Re: Z axis switch? Firmware? Broken wire?

Goshdarnit wrote:

Just for information, I noticed you comment that clicking on "Z+" in RH made the bed move downwards. This is the CORRECT behaviour. I know it's not very intuitive, but by lowering the bed, you are "effectively" raising the extruder... Confused me for a bit as well.

Yes!  A throwback to the origins of G-code which was developed primarily (and still does) to drive CNC machines; the Z representing in most cases the vertical spindle which holds the cutter which travels in the Z axis.

In the case of 3D printers, it is usually the table that is traveling in the Z Axis..hence the inversion.

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23

Re: Z axis switch? Firmware? Broken wire?

@ annalenhartmurray,

I hope you are having success at printing; but a further thought:

If in fact your Z-probing is hit or miss, it may pay to closely inspect the wiring within the probe and switch and back to the controller for any loose or bad connections.  Since the probe moves, a connection problem could be likely.

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24

Re: Z axis switch? Firmware? Broken wire?

IronMan wrote:

@ annalenhartmurray,

I hope you are having success at printing; but a further thought:

If in fact your Z-probing is hit or miss, it may pay to closely inspect the wiring within the probe and switch and back to the controller for any loose or bad connections.  Since the probe moves, a connection problem could be likely.

And inspect the mechanical path of the probe to make sure the probe is reliab;y and repeatably extending.

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Re: Z axis switch? Firmware? Broken wire?

I have been in contact with the solidoodle people and they suggest I switch the extruder and z print wires. I see wires but don't know which wire is which. Does McGyverX's under the kimono have a wiring  diagram? I have a basic understanding of electronics... Can this be done by a novice?