Two weeks of adhering/warping issues, could really use some input!

Dont clean your bed between printings. I use a lot of hairspray and also the Nozzle is pushing into bed, so the first layer always is squished. But the dirty bed was gold for me.

A brim can helo hold things down.
You can find more about bed prep already posted on various topics. (acetone, kapton etc.)

What is your infill set to? Hard to to tell from the photos. Keeping your infill low allows enough flex for the bed to have a fighting chance at keeping the part down as the stresses build.

Hi guys

Thank you all for the reply's! Been busy last few days

Well I've read most posts on this forum before I posted and have tried most methods with the slurry and hairspray and whatnot but that really doesnt seem to help since all my prints are looking good for the first hour, no adhesion problems at all there but then the print always warps and then comes loose..

@trayracing My infill is at 100% rectiliniear but I had the same result with 50% honeycomb, haven't tried much else when it comes to infill

The Z-offset is as good as it gets (dunno can't finetune it anymore since last soliprint update) but it looks good when comparing it to the tutorial and others

I'm gonna try not cleaning the bed for a while since I've been cleaning it as soon as I've used most of the print are see if that helps when printing on the glass however I read

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/10419/re … erf-board/

and ordered that right away and I got it today, ships faster from the states to Norway then we ship stuff within the freakin country

So off to try that and just hope that it works like a charm

Thanks again for all your input guys! Much appreciated

A picture of the board aswell

@Morganism

That sounds like something I could relate more to
I'm at 100degrees celsius atm, how high is it safe to go?

I have tried printing with both the door open a couple of inches and the top resting on the door and also with everything closed but same result more or less

Worth mentioning is that I have had some other smaller prints that have printed fairly well but this is 1" and a half in diamenter sphere that's been cut in half (with a hole in the top but never get that far) that I can't for the life of me get printed properly!
Just saying the base is kind of big in comparison to my other prints

Allright thanks

Anyhow just tried printing on the perforated board I just linked to (thanks to Bartimaeus) and it's just "perf"ect - pun intended
No but really, same print with almost exact settings and it's golden, halfway through with lower infill

Started examining the glass plate a bit more and it really looks like it's not plane, like it's warped! Can't tell for sure, bringing it to work in the morning to get it checked but to the naked eye it looks like the corners on two opposite sides are higher

There isn't like an up or down to this glass right? Holy crap would that make me look stupid

Wow, printing something like that with all that overhang seems alien to me to say the least
Since I've had these problems ever since I got my press I haven't tried printing anything like that but I'm for sure going to try now

I can't even see how you actually print something like that dino head? Going to go home and google tonight ! So as you can imagine I can't help you there, hopefully someone else can

Well, was just going to compare it to other surfaces that I know are as straight as can be, don't have no laser or nothing, was tired last night but going to put it next to the perfboard ofc and post a picture, fairly sure that the glass plate is warped, the way it was printing compared to now

I would ofcourse like to print on a completely flat surface but happy as hell just to be printing atm so will check into it, going to order that spray that you bought, and will try it out as soon as it arrives
My smaller prints do have better adherence but nothing like what you showed in that other post

GL on the teeth issue

I use glass + hairspray and have the opposite problem (sticks too much).  The hairspray gets tacky at the high temperature of the ABS and hardens/holds at the lower temperature of the bed.  If I let the part cool before removing, it will break the glass before coming free so I always remove hot.  One thing I do to modulate the firmness of the grip is vary the first layer extrusion width.  For large prints, I set it to 200% (twice as wide as the upper layers) and slow it down to 75% normal speed.  This causes more material to come out of the nozzle allowing the hairspray to heat up more and get a better grip before cooling back down to the bed temp.  For smaller prints I leave first layer extrusion width at 100% to avoid breaking the glass if I forget to remove it before it cools.  At this setting, small parts just pop off on their own when it cools.