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Re: Heat bed too hot??? I'm major getting warping!!!

evanalmighty wrote:

Ideally, yes.  But we're dealing with a lot more variables here than just the machine itself.  Every color of the same filament brand can behave differently, let alone different brands of the same material.  The shape/size/print time also play a big role in regards to warping etc.

I have 2 Da Vinci 1.0's and all I can say is one prints fine with 1st layer @100C and then down to 90C for the subsequent layers.  On the other hand, the other printer will print almost everything without warping at 100C all the way through.  It took a lot of trials and errors to dial in these beds.

And for those with glass beds, I would highly recommend this product here: http://airwolf3d.com/shop/wolfbite-prev … om-warping

I'm using it on all 4 of my printers and it works amazing.  The prints adheres so well to the glass at temperature, but once the bed cools down to 25C or so the parts just glides off kind of like the puck sliding around on an air hockey table.   Well worth the money IMO.  No more changing out tapes, no more ABS juice, no more glue sticks, no more ugly bottom surface of the prints.

n2ri wrote:

not gonna make last post a book lol.

I just wanted to say something that needs stated someplace on this site.
I have been in many service/repair tech positions in my careers for about 40 years and nearly all machines/appliances had a service manual (except Solidoodle printers) and the 1st chapter of all said manuals had a "sequence of Operation" section which outlined in detail each step from power on thru finished operation telling what each component did to cause the next step to occur (under normal conditions all working correct). this was the 1st place you started when trouble shooting a machine to locate where problems where.  it also told what settings should read (temps, volts, pressures...) and if any of them where adjustable in the field or by operator/consumer also schematics and trouble shooting diagnostic chart.
now if these 3D printer manufacturers (assuming they are smart enough to understand their printer functions) had such a manual (it wont give away trade secrets after all lol) this site would not be as needed nor would the manufacturer be creating so many dissatisfied customers that keep factory techs scratching their heads to try helping.

if you agree with this statement copy and email a copy to your printers manufacturer.

in the words of my old boss "take your 'blinders' off and look around outside the box for solutions" search horse and buggies harness info to see what 'blinders' are.


I set my bed at 90 on my 1.0. I use only glass and Elmers purple glue sticks. I do slice with a 6mm 1 layer brim on all of my prints that later is easily removed and never issues with lifting , warping, or removal once cool. Once too much glue collects just lay a warm wet towel on it for about 5 minutes and it wipes right off leaving squeaky clean glass.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.