1 Topic by wimismith

  • wimismith
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Topic: Part warping

Hello all, I'm hoping someone may be able to tell me why it's doing this, but my parts on longer prints have been warping a little. I recently printed a part that took 12 hours to print, part looks like a pyramid. It looked good for the most part, but one corner warped and pulled up. The face that was on the build plate also didn't show the details it was supposed to, but I think that had more to do with the abs slurry I coat the plate with. I split the design in half from top to bottom, and reprinted, came out looking much better, but 2 corners on both parts warped again. Is there anything I can do to fix this issue? I'm using the default xyz software, and standard xyz filament. Wanting to set it up to print from 1kg spools, but I haven't yet.

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2 Reply by oscahie

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Re: Part warping

ABS slurry is usually what works best for me but failing that you may also use a brim in the slicer or add some 'mouse ears' to the corners, like this: http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2011/02/25 … g-monster/

3 Reply by PseudoShooter (edited by PseudoShooter 2015-05-05 14:17:38)

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Re: Part warping

I tried blue painter's tape for the first time a few days ago and the hold was much stronger than the glue ever was. (I heat my bed to 95 degrees C).

I've had good success with the Elmer's purple glue but the blue tape allows you to visually make sure there is no gaps in bed coverage at all. Sometimes the glue would miss a spot and invariably that's where the warping would always occur.

Edit: Yesterday, I successfully finished a 13 hour print on the blue tape. No warping at all and the piece still had to be coaxed off the bed after cooling for a number of hours.

It really is the way to go IMO.

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4 Reply by scobo (edited by scobo 2015-05-03 17:58:15)

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Re: Part warping

As always, the first layer is crucial.
I watch mine like a hawk and cancel the print if I see any sign of the first layer not sticking properly.
You want a nice squished first layer so that it gets pushed into the bed for good adhesion.
To get that, you need to set the bed height correctly. The sticky on the first page of the forum will tell you how to do it manually which gives far better results than the auto levelling.
I also use glue on the bed and plenty of it on large prints.

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5 Reply by knucklbustr (edited by knucklbustr 2015-05-05 04:05:54)

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Re: Part warping

He using black. Stuff is hard to nail down because of the carbon.
Bottom shrinks.
180mmL x 70mmW, I tried everything to keep down a 6hr print.
Last hr it would curl up at corners.
The large bed area and long time prints are the tuffest in black.
No probs in other colors.

I wound up placing holes up a couple mm in my model to relieve the stress.

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6 Reply by wimismith

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Re: Part warping

Unfortunately, this particular project I can't do that with. I'm about to set my machine up to use a 1kg spool of white, so I'll see if that makes a difrence. I'll also chane up how I'm printing so that I'm only doing one half at a time, maybe that'll help the issue of time on the table.

7 Reply by carl_m1968

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Re: Part warping

wimismith wrote:

Unfortunately, this particular project I can't do that with. I'm about to set my machine up to use a 1kg spool of white, so I'll see if that makes a difrence. I'll also chane up how I'm printing so that I'm only doing one half at a time, maybe that'll help the issue of time on the table.


You are going to find that white is one of the hardest colors to print with as well. Pigments play a big role in how a material prints. Black for me is one of the easiest while white is always difficult to tune in. I find the best to print is natural. No pigment, and if you want color just finish and paint.

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8 Reply by wimismith

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Re: Part warping

Unfortunately, I don't have any natural, I have some black and some white.