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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → XYZ Printing DaVinci → PLA sticking with E3Dv6 on Davinci
I modified my davinci but having issues with PLA sticking to the glass. I was using hairspray for the ABS and it was perfect
I have Repetier firmware on a E3d v6 nozzle. I was printing at 228 and heat bed at 90 first layer and then 60. Any ideas? after a few mins it sticks to he nozzle or the sides come up.
I modified my davinci but having issues with PLA sticking to the glass. I was using hairspray for the ABS and it was perfect
I have Repetier firmware on a E3d v6 nozzle. I was printing at 228 and heat bed at 90 first layer and then 60. Any ideas? after a few mins it sticks to he nozzle or the sides come up.
Print on a cold bed with blue painters tape. If you use bare glass then it needs to be about 110 and you need to use the manual calibration process.
Vxxs wrote:I modified my davinci but having issues with PLA sticking to the glass. I was using hairspray for the ABS and it was perfect
I have Repetier firmware on a E3d v6 nozzle. I was printing at 228 and heat bed at 90 first layer and then 60. Any ideas? after a few mins it sticks to he nozzle or the sides come up.
Print on a cold bed with blue painters tape. If you use bare glass then it needs to be about 110 and you need to use the manual calibration process.
Bed at 110 with PLA? It'll not solidify at such temps. I've a few times used the bed heated at 95 just to straighten a warped PLA print 
carl_m1968 wrote:Vxxs wrote:I modified my davinci but having issues with PLA sticking to the glass. I was using hairspray for the ABS and it was perfect
I have Repetier firmware on a E3d v6 nozzle. I was printing at 228 and heat bed at 90 first layer and then 60. Any ideas? after a few mins it sticks to he nozzle or the sides come up.
Print on a cold bed with blue painters tape. If you use bare glass then it needs to be about 110 and you need to use the manual calibration process.
Bed at 110 with PLA? It'll not solidify at such temps. I've a few times used the bed heated at 95 just to straighten a warped PLA print
The reason it is peeling up is that it IS solidifying too quick keeping the bed hotter will prevent this.
Or as I said leave the the bed at room temp and use blue painters tape. The over priced Makerbots only print PLA and do not use heated beds. They simply use painters tape.
The reason it is peeling up is that it IS solidifying too quick keeping the bed hotter will prevent this.
Sorry but that's so wrong. Go ahead and try printing PLA with the bed at 110ºC, you'll see what happens.
The reason why it peels is simply because PLA doesn't adhere well enough to glass. Increasing the temperature will not make it any better. Using blue painter's tape, as you said, definitely will.
carl_m1968 wrote:The reason it is peeling up is that it IS solidifying too quick keeping the bed hotter will prevent this.
Sorry but that's so wrong. Go ahead and try printing PLA with the bed at 110ºC, you'll see what happens.
The reason why it peels is simply because PLA doesn't adhere well enough to glass. Increasing the temperature will not make it any better. Using blue painter's tape, as you said, definitely will.
When I had my 3dstuffmaker Evolution I printed all the time on a 110 bed with excellent results. The Evolution was made only for PLA. All I had to fo was add a layer fan to keep over hangs from curling. Maybe your bed is not actually 110 since the heater the Da Vinci uses is much hotter by nearly 30 degrees in the center than the edges where the thermistor is.
My Evolution used a silicon heating mat and the thermistor was located halfway between center and edge so the overall temp was uniform.
will try the room temp, after this test print is done.
Should I use my 80mm fans in the case? or one blowing directing on the printed object?
will try the room temp, after this test print is done.
Should I use my 80mm fans in the case? or one blowing directing on the printed object?
Its better to blow directly.
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