Topic: solidoodle 3 bed warped
the bed sags in the middle bad.
is the only way to cure this issue by putting a sheet of glass on the bed and print to that?
yes the bed is level.
any help would be awesome.
- wardjr
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Re: solidoodle 3 bed warped
Glass is good but don't use binder clips or it will warp the glass also.
Just spray the bottom with hair spray and heat/cool a few times. It'll stick and still be removable.
Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions
Re: solidoodle 3 bed warped
oh ok, so me using binder clips with my old glass bed is what warped the aluminum?
Re: solidoodle 3 bed warped
and then should I put kapton tape on the glassbed and spray hairspray on it to help prints stick better?
because the acetone slurry seems to not work out so well for me.
- wardjr
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Re: solidoodle 3 bed warped
In this order bottom up.
Aluminum build plate > Kapton tape (use some to fill the low area) > hairspray (on bottom of glass) > glass with a fine mist of hairspray on top. Heat/cool 3 times to get the glass to stick to the build plate.
Now you have a perfectly flat print surface. Level it in relation to your nozzle by placing the nozzle directly above the adjustment screws. Adjust them till the nozzle just touches and recheck all three points a few times. Then use the z-stop to adjust the nozzle to bed height so that a nice flat ribbon goes down for the first layer. print a cylinder and add a skirt loop far enough away that it covers most of the bed. Then print that skirt and make any adjustments needed to make that loop uniform and flat like a ribbon the whole way around. Do all of this with your bed up to temp.
Proper bed leveling and having a true flat surface are the single most important things to ensure good adhesion.
Your aluminum warped mostly from heat and is why we recommend using glass and no binder clips.
You don't want Kapton on top of the glass.
Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions
Re: solidoodle 3 bed warped
awesome thankyou again so much for the help
Re: solidoodle 3 bed warped
do I need to re spray the bottom of the glass if I remove it?
and repeat the heating steps?
- AZERATE
- PRINTiT
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Re: solidoodle 3 bed warped
No. I've gone through 50+ prints without reapplying and i still need to pry it off if I need to switch
Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!
Re: solidoodle 3 bed warped
ok cool thanks,
now all I need to do is is get a good working material fan mount for my e3d v6 lol