1 Topic by zqfrancis

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Topic: print bed temperature went crazy! Please help

Hi,
I am using Solidoodle Workbench and I was printing two parts starting from yesterday morning, and it would take 8 hours to finish. but however, just 40mins before it finish, the print bed temperature went to 290 deg and I have completely no clue what caused that! Repetier prevented the printing process so the software kept giving error message, while in the 3D view rendering in Repetier, the simulator was still printing!

the print failed because of the shocking temperature of print bed. but however, I felt the print bed and it was not even warm! So I think there might be something wrong with the sensor or the wires. Could anyone give me some help? Thank you so much!

Attached is the screen shot for the wrong temperature of print bed and error message.

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2 Reply by wardjr

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Re: print bed temperature went crazy! Please help

Check for a loose or broken connection from the bed thermistor to the board.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
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3 Reply by zqfrancis

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Re: print bed temperature went crazy! Please help

I unpluged thermistor from mother board and measured the resistance, it was 108K, so the thermistor should be fine, and there is no wire broken.

I did a test using potential meter, i was expecting to see some changes in the temperature curve due to the change in resistance. but however, there wasn't significant changes, but only a little bit vibrations. Does that means something wrong with the board? And how should I fix the board?  http://soliforum.com/i/?FB9PjYi.jpg

4 Reply by wardjr

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Re: print bed temperature went crazy! Please help

I wouldn't jump to conclusions just yet, those connectors SD uses aren't the best.  I would reconnect and see what you end up with as a test.  The symptoms you describe are very common to a loose connection.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

5 Reply by zqfrancis

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Re: print bed temperature went crazy! Please help

By the way, the command for moving Z axis manually is also not working, is this command linked to the print bed temperature sensor?
and I also did one test that if I short the pins on the board, the temperature reads jumped to 360 deg. It just doesn't want to go below 280deg.

6 Reply by zqfrancis

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Re: print bed temperature went crazy! Please help

the connections are all good and there is no open circuit, is it possible to reset the mother board? Thank you!

7 Reply by wardjr

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Re: print bed temperature went crazy! Please help

I am guessing the thermistor is bad try plugging the extruder thermistor into the bed thermistor pins on the board.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

8 Reply by grob (edited by grob 2015-04-09 00:15:16)

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Re: print bed temperature went crazy! Please help

The printer usually locks up if it detects crazy temperatures. Power off and on again (and disconnect/connect in RH) is a pretty sure-way to reset.

You can try swapping the hot-end and bed thermistor connections (don't turn on any heaters!!), to confirm whether the problem follows either the bed thermistor or the motherboard connection - it looks from your graph like the H-E thermistor is reading ambient happily.

If you connect a 100kOhm resistor between the pins on the board, the temperature should read about 25C in R-H. If it doesn't, there's something wrong with the board.

^^ edit: haha ward beat me to it! smile

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9 Reply by wardjr

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Re: print bed temperature went crazy! Please help

Sorry grob tongue

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

10 Reply by zqfrancis

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Re: print bed temperature went crazy! Please help

Thank you guys for the suggestions. I will try connect the H-E thermistor into that pin. And i have already tried to connect a 100K ohm resistor and it didn't work. So maybe there is actually something wrong with the board. Is it possible that the board may get damaged during the printing process? and how can I check the board and reset the firmware? Basically, I don't really want to do anything to the firmware because it doesn't make sense that there's something went wrong during printing process. Thank you guys!

11 Reply by wardjr

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Re: print bed temperature went crazy! Please help

firmware is not the issue.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

12 Reply by soliryan

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Re: print bed temperature went crazy! Please help

When the boards are both plugged in to power, do you see two green LEDs on the daughterboard? They are labeled D2 and D3. Also, what is the voltage across the temperature header (TMP)?

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13 Reply by zqfrancis

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Re: print bed temperature went crazy! Please help

there is only one LED light on and it is on the bottom board. I tried to push RES button for 6-7 secs (as solidoodle support suggested), and re-connected, but nothing changed. it seems like the bottom temperature for the print bed is 280deg, and from that point, it can go as high as 360deg (when i short the two pins used to connect the thermistor).

14 Reply by soliryan (edited by soliryan 2015-04-09 20:09:01)

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Re: print bed temperature went crazy! Please help

If there are no LEDs lit up on the daughterboard then there is no 12V or 5V power. Check the thermal fuse located on the daughterboard next to the power input. It is a small white block with a '10' on it. In the same corner check FB1, it is a very small ferrite bead to filter out ground noise in the power input. It is possible that either of these could have blown/melted in order to prevent more catastrophic damage to the board.
Also, this sounds stupid but just to be sure - are you connecting both connectors from the power supply? The daughterboard needs its own power separate from the motherboard.

Former Solidoodle employee

15 Reply by zqfrancis

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Re: print bed temperature went crazy! Please help

Yes I connected both power cables to the boards.

I checked the FB1 and '10', nothing seems wrong. http://soliforum.com/i/?FG2dFfs.jpg

16 Reply by zqfrancis

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Re: print bed temperature went crazy! Please help

this is the LED which is on. I am not sure where is the other onehttp://soliforum.com/i/?pUWan06.jpg

17 Reply by zqfrancis

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Re: print bed temperature went crazy! Please help

The D2 and D3 LEDs on daughter board were both off when powered, and the voltage across the TMP is 0.137V

18 Reply by soliryan

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Re: print bed temperature went crazy! Please help

Ok, a few more voltages to check:

1. VIN (probe the 2 holes in the board next to FB1. Should be 12V.
2. Each of the legs of the 5V regulator (U13) located above the Solidoodle logo. Probe each one separately to ground. The one on the left should be 12V and the one on the right 5V.
3. Power supply output. On the 4-pin connector, the top 2 pins (spaced further apart) are positive, and the bottom 2 are negative. Should be 12V.

Former Solidoodle employee

19 Reply by zqfrancis

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Re: print bed temperature went crazy! Please help

Thank you!
I measured the pins,
1. the VIN was 12V
2. both of the U13 legs I measured 0.144V, which might be the problem .
3. one positive pin from the power supply 4-pin connector failed because I can not read the 12V once I measure it with the negative pin. As for the other positive pin, I can read 12V.

20 Reply by zqfrancis

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Re: print bed temperature went crazy! Please help

something weird happened, when i was trying to measure the good positive pin and negative pin (on the 4-pin connector), a bright spark happened, which doesn't make sense because I am measuring the voltage across them, and there's no short circuit.

21 Reply by soliryan

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Re: print bed temperature went crazy! Please help

So it seems like the 5V regulator has gone bad. If you're comfortable soldering, you can try this:

1. Cut the legs on the 5V regulator (U13) to disconnect it
2. Solder the pads of R1 (located under the Solidoodle logo) to create a solder bridge

This will pull 5V from the motherboard instead of using the on board regulator.

By the way, have you submitted a ticket with support? If you need a replacement board then I would prefer you go through the support website rather than privately through here just so we have an actual record of it.

Former Solidoodle employee

22 Reply by zqfrancis

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Re: print bed temperature went crazy! Please help

I tried to short the thermal fuse ('10') with a piece of wire, and the two LEDs (D2 & D3)went back to life! So I am thinking to replace this thermal fuse. Do you know the part number of this thermal fuse so I can order one from local vender, or the specs of this thermal fuse. Thank you so much!

23 Reply by soliryan

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Re: print bed temperature went crazy! Please help

If you wish to make repairs yourself, please know you are doing so at your own risk. With that being said, here it is:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e … -ND/615012

Former Solidoodle employee

24 Reply by zqfrancis

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Re: print bed temperature went crazy! Please help

Thank you,
Since I know the thermal fuse has burned out, is there any way I can check the FB1? Just check if it is open circuit?

25 Reply by shoag1

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Re: print bed temperature went crazy! Please help

I just wanted to post and say that this thread was very helpful in identifying the same problem in my workbench printer as well. I contacted solidoodle support for a replacement board. If this is a reoccurring problem solidoodle may want to look into the cause of it.