1 Topic by MLA

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Topic: Fan shroud stl

For those of you that have seen my other posts, here is the stl file for the fan shroud that I made for the front of the extruder. I couldn't really find a good way to mount it to any of the existing screw holes, so I have just attached it with a zip tie. The fan was wired to the existing pins on the mother board and I used electrical tape around the fan and shroud to make sure there is not any air escaping from the small gaps.

The fan has fixed all of my issues with printing ABS. I have ran 4 6+ hour prints at 255C without getting the thump of death. I could previously only run it up to 230 - 235 and this was not hot enough to prevent layer separation.

If you use this design you will have to change the Y-axis to 185mm or the shroud will crash into the front of the printer. You will also have to print with the lid open or remove the portion of the lid that has the spool holder, which is pretty much useless anyway....

The fan in front is blowing air into the extruder and the fan on the side is pulling the air out of the extruder.

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Shroud_2.stl 511.7 kb, 133 downloads since 2015-03-18 

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2 Reply by MLA

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Re: Fan shroud stl

Here are a few pics of how it mounts and the fan is 40mm. I added the tape mentioned above after taking the pics...

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20150314_141700.jpg 1.98 mb, 3 downloads since 2015-03-18 

20150314_141714.jpg
20150314_141714.jpg 2.95 mb, 1 downloads since 2015-03-18 

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3 Reply by dylantep991

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Re: Fan shroud stl

how did you plug this in? did you plug into the controller or just splice into the current extruder fan wires?

4 Reply by MLA

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Re: Fan shroud stl

There are 2 leads on the board that are labeled "FAN" I used these. I think they were meant for and additional fan for anyone who needs to print PLA.

5 Reply by MacGyverX

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Re: Fan shroud stl

There are two open FAN headers and one mark PWM. You can use anyone of those. Ideally you should use the PWM pin as this is 'supposed' to be gcode controlled. But due to the manufacturer error the PWM is held open (as in always giving full power).

SD Press - v1 (Pre-order) / RAMPs /w DRV8825's / Cyclops (25w) / Dual Bowden / Mk8 Gear / MK2b PCB Heat bed /w custom replacement Z / PEI Bed
SD2 / E3D v6 / Direct Drive / Mk8 Gear / RAMBo v1.3 / PEI Bed / Anti Z backlash mod / Ikea Expedite enclosure.
Both Driven by Octoprint (devel) via a RPi B+ / Neopixel status alerts / GPIO Controlled SSR / (SD2) 450 Watt PSU for remote power-up/shutdown.

6 Reply by pshcims

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Re: Fan shroud stl

Where did you get the extra fan and wires to connect it?

7 Reply by MLA

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Re: Fan shroud stl

I had the wires from another project and I got the fan at radio shack. You can get a fan much cheaper from eBay. I was impatient so I paid retail...

8 Reply by MLA

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Re: Fan shroud stl

Just search for a 40mm 12volt fan.

9 Reply by dylantep991

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Re: Fan shroud stl

how did you manage to route the wires to the motherboard? did you push them through the corner with the rest of the wires? thats what I have been trying and can't seem to make it to the bottom

10 Reply by MacGyverX (edited by MacGyverX 2015-03-28 17:05:01)

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Re: Fan shroud stl

There are two ways.

Option 1.

You'll need to remove the bottom panel (there are two screws there.) You also need to remove the shroud that is covering the Z-Axis (When you open the top lid there are two phillips head screws, then pull the cover from the top and work it to the bottom.) Then you need to flip the machine on it's side. Locate the wires for the heatbed on the controller and follow the path that they take into the machine. Then push your 2 conductor wire thru the same path until you see them inside the machine and pull them up towards the top of the machine. Measure out the excess you'll need to travel up the machine and thru the cable shroud that already house the wires for the heater, thermistor & stepper. Reverse the process to reassemble.

Option 2.

Move the bed towards the bottom of the machine (Use your favorite controller software and move the bed down 170mm from home). You see two screws about half way down the machine on the left side. Then two more at the top. These will remove the side panel of the machine. You'll also need to remove the bottom panel. With the side panel off you will see a wire bundle towards the back of the unit going down. Take your 2 conductor wire and start from the hotend, manivore it thru the cable shroud and follow the bundle towards the bottom of the machine. Flip the machine on it's side and shine a flash light into the area where the controller is towards the side you removed. This will help you locate the hole. Fish it thru that and pull the excess out from the bottom of the machine. Once done use the steps above in reverse to reassemble the machine.

In both cases, make sure you have enough slack to account for gantry movement.

SD Press - v1 (Pre-order) / RAMPs /w DRV8825's / Cyclops (25w) / Dual Bowden / Mk8 Gear / MK2b PCB Heat bed /w custom replacement Z / PEI Bed
SD2 / E3D v6 / Direct Drive / Mk8 Gear / RAMBo v1.3 / PEI Bed / Anti Z backlash mod / Ikea Expedite enclosure.
Both Driven by Octoprint (devel) via a RPi B+ / Neopixel status alerts / GPIO Controlled SSR / (SD2) 450 Watt PSU for remote power-up/shutdown.

11 Reply by Manx

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Re: Fan shroud stl

i do not think my board has any open wires

12 Reply by MacGyverX (edited by MacGyverX 2015-04-03 17:56:50)

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Re: Fan shroud stl

If you mean headers. It does. Two of them.

http://mlabs.us/public/ZZ4DC562A4.jpg

SD Press - v1 (Pre-order) / RAMPs /w DRV8825's / Cyclops (25w) / Dual Bowden / Mk8 Gear / MK2b PCB Heat bed /w custom replacement Z / PEI Bed
SD2 / E3D v6 / Direct Drive / Mk8 Gear / RAMBo v1.3 / PEI Bed / Anti Z backlash mod / Ikea Expedite enclosure.
Both Driven by Octoprint (devel) via a RPi B+ / Neopixel status alerts / GPIO Controlled SSR / (SD2) 450 Watt PSU for remote power-up/shutdown.

13 Reply by seven2099

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Re: Fan shroud stl

MLA wrote:

For those of you that have seen my other posts, here is the stl file for the fan shroud that I made for the front of the extruder. I couldn't really find a good way to mount it to any of the existing screw holes, so I have just attached it with a zip tie. The fan was wired to the existing pins on the mother board and I used electrical tape around the fan and shroud to make sure there is not any air escaping from the small gaps.

The fan has fixed all of my issues with printing ABS. I have ran 4 6+ hour prints at 255C without getting the thump of death. I could previously only run it up to 230 - 235 and this was not hot enough to prevent layer separation.

If you use this design you will have to change the Y-axis to 185mm or the shroud will crash into the front of the printer. You will also have to print with the lid open or remove the portion of the lid that has the spool holder, which is pretty much useless anyway....

The fan in front is blowing air into the extruder and the fan on the side is pulling the air out of the extruder.

Hey MLA

By the thump of death, do you mean the extruder clogging up and then just chewing up filament?

Also, to understand your design, what is the purpose of this extra fan? (airflow direction..etc)

I recently calibrated my trim pots and now my prints are looking amazing in quality, however I am also having issues with prints where eventually the extruder wheel just starts thumping/grinding and halfway through the print, it will stop extruding.  However, I have been able to complete some prints without these type of gear jams, so I'm just wondering if this will help me solve it.

Thanks

Seven

14 Reply by MLA

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Re: Fan shroud stl

That would be the thump of death! The stock fan and heatsink do not provide enough cooling and the filament gets too hot in the "cool" end of the extruder. The extra fan will help with this situation. I have the additional fan blowing into the heatsink and the stock fan pulling the air away from the heatsink.

15 Reply by seven2099

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Re: Fan shroud stl

super interesting.

I've upped my temps to 245 to do some prints today and that seemed to solve this issue so far however I think your solution is awesome and it will be my next step if I keep getting failed prints because of that.

16 Reply by afiedler

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Re: Fan shroud stl

MLA wrote:

Here are a few pics of how it mounts and the fan is 40mm. I added the tape mentioned above after taking the pics...

Nice work! How do you have your spool mounted? And is there certain settings to run your extra fan, or is it just on all the time? I know that earlier in this thread it was said that solidoodle didn't put that in their firmware, but I think I might have an updated version since mine had the head wires being retained with a spring, but I don't know!

17 Reply by selkess

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Re: Fan shroud stl

MLA wrote:

Here are a few pics of how it mounts and the fan is 40mm. I added the tape mentioned above after taking the pics...

why not make the model less tall so it not hit the roof ?
it will work anyway if less tall  can you do it? slim it down

18 Reply by seven2099

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Re: Fan shroud stl

I've stopped using this completely - as after extensive testing this is completely uneeded to avoid the filament from failing.

After extensive z-axis height calibration (fine tuning, with A LOT A LOT of prints for testing) I've found the issue is much more about nozzle height and calibration/print speed values.

Now my Press prints perfectly with lid closed.. no issues since.